PDX Gen 2 Body lift questions

[razor541]

Wondering if someone in the Portland, OR area has done a 2" body lift on a Gen 2 that I could have Elmer me for a bit.

I've been doing research and there seems to be two camps: one where there is no brake line/ac bracket issues, and one where there needed to be changes.

First bit of research is from Eurosonic's build thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/72692-Eurosonic-s-Montero-2-5Gen-Build-Thread
He makes it seem really simple, but I'm not sure if it being a gen 2.5 radically changes the mechanics of the body lift...

My main concern is this thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/144073-2-quot-body-lift-procedure-Gen-2
"1. Two front brake lines, they weren’t long enough but notice they have coils inside the engine compartment so I carefully stretch them
enough to accommodate the lift. The hardest one was the driver side one since the battery compartment sits on top of it, I have to remove
the whole thing to make room to work on it, plus there are some other hoses you may want to look under the battery compartment that
might break during the lift. (AC, electrical wires, brake lines)
2. Front Brake lines that run on the inner side of the frame by the driver side would not stretch enough so I disconnect them from the
frame.
3. Gas Tank line, I disconnect them from the body, they were long enough
4. Center Console, I remove it to make sure the transfer case shifter would go down with the tranny and to see if the tarnny shifter and
hand brake would be affected with the lift. No problem
5. Radiator, I removed the shroud, & drained radiator, also remove the hoses so that they don’t brake during the lift. I put them back
after the lift was done, they are long enough (I still have to drop the radiator 2” down to accommodate the shroud again)
6. Rear Diff. I had to disconnect the hose from the body that goes to the diff once disconnected, it’s long enough even when rear
suspension is at full drop"

I'm new to working on my truck, but I think I can manage jacking up one side at a time and putting in new bolts: mainly the fuel and brake lines are things that I feel might get me in over my head.

Here are some pictures of the rig so far, thanks again for the help!!

 

[razor541]

Alternatively, has anyone heard things (good or bad) about Trendsetters for installation of this sorta thing in Portland?

 

[cr4x4cruiser]

A] You should expect zero issues, with anything you have noted, when doing the lift...
B] Brakes/ Front: Just be sure to slip out the rubber grommets from the inner fender walls [for the hard lines]... there is plenty of play/give in this area.
C] Fuel System: You should find about three [3], maybe four [4] screws/ nuts to attend to [driver's side/ behind tire]... after completed, you should fabricate simple brackets to extend the mountings for these items.
D] Center Console: no issues...
E] Lift one side at a time...
F] Leave the very-front body mounts for last, per each side... they are a royal PITA, and would appear to be only able to be removed when the body is fully lifted. Not difficult, once th body is lifted enough.
G] The whole process is much easier to accomplish if you do the following;
1] Remove running boards.
2] Remove mudflaps.
3] Remove bumpers.
4] Remove tires [per each side being worked on].

It's not as difficult as you might believe right now... I did it myself [and only by myself] in less than eight hours, six hours for the first side and a two more hours for the other side [there was a learning-curve involved].


Do it yourself, with the correct material...

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/R...hterm=UHMW+Rod

... less than $30.00 for a 2.5" Round x 36" Long UHMW Plastic Rod [to my door].

Do not purchase the 24" section, as you will not end up with 2" Tall Body Lift Blocks; this lift procedure requires 12 each for LWB Monteros [yes, saws do consume material in the process].


It is best to have access to a bandsaw & drill press; much cleaner & precise. Even better, have the plastic cut at a machine shop, as I did... super clean cuts and extremely precise [about $30].


The actual body bolts found on Gen 2 & Gen 2.5 Monteros are: M10 - 1.25 x 90mm 8.8 Flange Head.

M10 = 10mm Bolt Diameter [equals SAE 7/16" Diameter].

1.25 = Pitch [thread count], from one thread to the next... it is a fine [not course] thread.

90mm = Bolt Length [equals 3.54"], as measured from underneath the head to the end of the shaft].

8.8 = Tensile / Yield Strength [metric]... commonly considered to be equal to an SAE Grade 5 Bolt.


If staying metric, one should only consider a bolt with a 10.9 Tensile/ Yield Strength [M10 - 1.25 x 140mm [equals 5.51"]].

Least expensive I found/ purchased was a lot of 12 @ $81.00 gross [$6.75 each].
Not cheap by any means, but I just wanted to keep it all metric AND keep the Flange Head design [not liking the idea of separate bolts/ washers].

If converting to SAE bolts, one should only consider Grade 8.

Lastly, I did/ would not consider using Stainless Steel 316 Bolts/ Nuts, even though this vehicle will be in an extreme saltwater [oceanfront] / extreme humidity [80% - 100% daily, not uncommon] environment.
There is no SS Bolt that will ever have the Tensile/ Yield Strength of a Grade 8 or 10.9 Metric Bolt - in a similar dimension [for simplicity, assume that a SS Bolt will have about 50% of the strength of a Grade 8 Bolt].
Lifting the body demands stronger bolts [more tensile/ shear demands].
Coating the bolts & nuts with 'Por-15' will more than suffice for preventing rusting issues.

Note: I also installed these with two each [2] 2.5" Diameter x 0.125" Thick Flat Washers [one on top of the mount & one on the bottom] per mount [24 required]. You will see the original body mounts have metal washers separating them from the body and chassis. I did not want to install the mounts by themselves [plastic rubbing the body], so I simply replicated the factory design/ intent.

I have nothing against any of the kits out there, I just wanted to challenge myself... I am very satisfied. Lastly, our other Montero will likely see a 3" Body Lift... I do not see anything from preventing us in doing so, I am that confident.

Good luck,

Wm.

 

[jdavis]

I've done the lift on my 1995 SR.

It is pretty easy job. As you mention brake lines and fuel tank filler line are really the only issue.

One of these day, I'll get around to lowering the radiator. Did have to tweak the lower hose a touch. And did trim the console a touch in order for the shifter to go in to 2 wheel

Give your plenty of time to do the project and you'll be fine.

 

[razor541]

I'm eyeing the following 4crawler kit for my body lift:
12 body mounts, 2" height D12 (2.5" dia ultimate lift blocks) and Standard hardware + HD12 heavy duty hardware + EH extra (long) hardware
comes out to ~$153 before shipping which seems fair.

Wm:
Thank you for the detailed response! I think I'm going to go with the above 4crawler kit, but depending on the order backlog I might see if there's a shop in town that can do it. I'll work through those points you have and make sure it's squared away before I go into the body lift installation...
I've already done most of the running boards/mudflaps, but will need to take the rear bumper off (which I understand won't clear properly with the lift installed). Regardless, I'm gonna need to clear a weekend for this one...

jdavis:
Thanks for the reply! I'll see if I can find the filler line and the other trouble components ahead of time so I don't end up blowing something out during the install. I noticed 4crawler has the shifter extensions, but I'm unsure which part of the shifter necessitates trimming the console...

 

[AZPAJERO]

Did you end up getting your lift installed razor?

I'm going to attempt mine this weekend.

 

[razor541]

Nope not yet. It got delivered last week, but need to use the truck for a move this weekend, then I'll have access to a floor jack and stands at a friend's place the following weekend.

In other news, had to whack my starter to get it going today, so guess I'll need to swap that out soon.

 

['round n' back again]

Starter probably good. just the solenoid is cranky, cleaning that /contact points likely will revive your starter.

also

Soon there will be a body lift happening in ST Helens. we are lifting the body of a gen 2 with the forklift. if you want to help /watch as we do your welcome to.

take what body parts interests you as its going away

 

[razor541]

Thanks for the tip!! May as well try that first.

I'm interested in that project, think I want to schedule checking it out.

 

['round n' back again]

c'mon
465 s 15th saint helens oregon
get what u need

 

[razor541]

Soon as the rig is operable I'll try to make it out!

 

[razor541]

Did you end up getting your lift installed razor?

I'm going to attempt mine this weekend.

Did you get to your lift install last weekend?

Also, had my new starter installed. Took the shop a good two hours, so, being a newbie, I'm glad I went that route.

 

[razor541]

Got the body lift installed yesterday. Took 12 hours, but overall not too bad.

Heard a bad grinding/buzzing sound when I was driving back. Thought it could be a vac line that blew and want engaging the auto hubs, but turn out it was just fan shroud interference. Moved it down an inch, and no more interference.

Other thing is now it only drives in 4H: can't move the tcase lever into 2H due to interior trim interference. I'll have to figure that one out.