Photo Critiqing Thread

Photog

Explorer
Thanks Brian. :sombrero: The first underexposed looking photo was not the camera, but me tinkering with the shutter speed and aperture. I have some brighter shots, but for some reason I like the look of that one. I'll keep plugging at it.

It is good to tinker with the settings, and see what happens to the image.:wings:
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
I did a "Save for Web", to reduce the file size. THis degraded the quality a bit more than I intended. You can see artifacts around the power poles.:(

I'm getting pretty good at this step I think. The value used (percentage of quality) varies by type of camera used. With our Sony PNS, the images get pixelated below 49, but with SLR based sensors (20D and G10), I can crank them down quite a bit further. I have noted that going down one percent from say 50, to 49, or 40 to 39, results in noticeable file size reduction, at little to no loss of quality. My standard settings for the SLR sensor is 39, and it takes an image down in size quite nicely.

This image started life as a 4416 x 2480, 11MB sized JPEG image from our G10. After minor cropping to avoid a dark tree/shadow, and resizing for web presentation to 1280 pixels wide, and then "Save for Web" compressing at a value of 39, the image is now 206kb, and still looks fairly crisp. Note, no other processing was done, no sharpening, no levels, nothing.

TomsPlace.jpg


For comparison, when uploaded to SmugMug, I crank down the images from the origional 4400px size to about 1600px, and then upload. SmugMug's compression is more conservative (in the interest of quality over bandwidth). That same image at 1280px wide on SmugMug is 423KB in size. Over 100% bigger!

Do you see much difference in quality?
585338462_GBqDz-X2.jpg


Edit: Hmmm. Actually I do see a difference in quality :) The SmugMug version looks better, with much better color depth.
 
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Photog

Explorer
Thanks NWOODS,
I will try a few runs at the % compression, to see where to stop on my files.

The one I had trouble with, that you quoted, was someone else's file.

I do see a bit more contrast in the Smug Mug version you posted. Very slight.
 

pismo62

Adventurer
Here's a couple shots up in Big Sur, below the Mill Creek campground. They were shot as the sun started to set. Canon 10-22, on a 30D. CC welcome.

ISO:250 f/22 1/4sec
IMG_6173-1.jpg


ISO:250 f/16 30.0sec
IMG_6263-1.jpg


I try to get out as much as my schedule allows.
 

pismo62

Adventurer
I forgot to mention that I used a graduated neutral density filter 3-stop hard edge, from singh-ray. It's very difficult to hold back the light on sunset/sunrise pictures without it.
 

Photog

Explorer
These two photos, and a couple posted on the "Artistic" thread, are great examples of being there, when the light is good. Most of the day & night, this arch is in bad or no light.

We all see great scenery and views, along our travels; but most of the time, the light is horrible (mid day). These two photos were taken just before and well after sunset. Perfect. You could also try this before sunrise, looking in the same direction. The sky is pink & orange, lighting up the arch, rocks, water and sky in soft, muted colors.

A location like this allows the locals to see it at all times of the day, and capture it in it's best light. If you are traveling, look for great scenery in the areas near your expected camp location. You can shoot these locations evening and morning.

If you will be back in a great area at a later date, you may plan a camping spot, based on a photo you want to get. It helps to know the times for sunrise/sunset in your latitude and time of year.

The two photos below show what this arch can look like, with some photographic planning. The 3-Stop ND filter helps keep the tone of the sky and the froeground rock, balanced (in the 2nd image).

In the 1st image, the 3-Stop ND filter is probably a bit too much. The foreground is lighter than the clear sky (not normal). The filter also makes the arch turn almost black. This looks a little odd, since the foreground rocks are not that dark. The red stuff in the forground is also fighting for attantion. The rest of the image is outstanding. Composition, shuuter speed selsction, exposure, depth of field (f22), perfect.

A clear sky is usually lighter than the foreground or lake reflections, etc., etc. Meter the sky, and meter the foreground. Use the proper split-filter to keep the sky 1/2 to 1 stop lighter than the foreground. If it is over filtered, it starts to look unrealistic (not in a good way).

This makes for a perfect excuse to buy a 2-stop ND filter, and go shoot it again.

Guy, you have an excellent eye for composition, drama, and light.:wings: You have done some very nice work here.:) Now it is a matter of a little bit of technical adjustment. You could even do this in Photoshop, to see what it would look like, being just a bit lighter in the sky, than the foreground (as if you had used a 2-stop ND split-filter).

Kudos

Here's a couple shots up in Big Sur, below the Mill Creek campground. They were shot as the sun started to set. Canon 10-22, on a 30D. CC welcome.

ISO:250 f/22 1/4sec
IMG_6173-1.jpg


ISO:250 f/16 30.0sec
IMG_6263-1.jpg


I try to get out as much as my schedule allows.
 

pismo62

Adventurer
Brian, Thanks for the advice, and kind words of encouragement. I appriciate you taking your time and reviewing the pictures in this tread.

I went back to lightroom and brought the brightness up on the background and lowered the brightness on the forground. I find shots like this are tricky on the back side of rocks and arches, due to the shadows on one side and the harsh sunset on the other.

As far as the filters go, I'd love to pick up a 2-stop, if they weren't so dang expensive.


IMG_6173-1-1-1.jpg




Guy
 

winch wench

Adventurer
i'll take a stab at this...im no pro...but i dug this photo up from last year...used an Olympus C 765 ultra zoom....no DSLR...but it worked for me for several years till i picked up an E500

I dont have any photoshop software...this is bare bones...with just a cropping

 

Photog

Explorer
Pat (Winch),
She is cute, but portrait images are a whole different ball of worms.
The light on her is definitely not good portrait light. I do like the light in the hair. The use of a reflector could have improved the light across her face (kids don't normally sit still for that).

There is more: Lighting ratios, face/body direction, camera position relative to the subject's face, etc., etc........(these aspects are all wrong in this photo).

We can go there, if everyone wants to???????????
It can be done outside; but studio lights make it much easier.

Again, she is really cute.:)
 

winch wench

Adventurer
Pat (Winch),
She is cute, but portrait images are a whole different ball of worms.
The light on her is definitely not good portrait light. I do like the light in the hair. The use of a reflector could have improved the light across her face (kids don't normally sit still for that).

There is more: Lighting ratios, face/body direction, camera position relative to the subject's face, etc., etc........(these aspects are all wrong in this photo).

We can go there, if everyone wants to???????????
It can be done outside; but studio lights make it much easier.

Again, she is really cute.:)

thx photog...
this photo was a totally candid outdoors photo at a pumpkin patch where she just got her face painted....
i wasnt attempting to do a pro job on this one..just capture my neice having a good time at halloween...LOL

and im sure you know....how difficult it is to pose a child...:wings:
 

johnson4x4

Observer
Heres A few from around Washington State, taken with a Canon SX/20/IS by either my wife or myself. This is our first real camera, so all comments are welcome. Feel free to edit and repost. Thanks.
l_dbcc17102dce4f6d9297ebf38c0a65e2.jpg


l_f318a50749614cb1b4ecb71b68dbfa05.jpg


l_81c86ac1fd254726a2e3338c847e0b98.jpg


l_c9411c0894224465ac27404af02a97ee.jpg


l_3bca2c73ba174c77bc9c8319875e723e.jpg


l_8c3ae7e4201042c69d557f81c82cb80c.jpg
 

Photog

Explorer
Johnson,
The first image could use a polarizer, to reduce the "blue" haze, across the mountains. You can use a Lensmate to attach a polarizer.

l_dbcc17102dce4f6d9297ebf38c0a65e2.jpg


The Sheep & Bug photos, have the subject in the "bullseye" position. Consider placing them off center in the frame, with room in the direction they are looking. Look up "The Rule of Thirds" in Google. Try using this concept in your next series of images. You will break this rule later on; but learn how to use it for now.

l_3bca2c73ba174c77bc9c8319875e723e.jpg


l_8c3ae7e4201042c69d557f81c82cb80c.jpg
[/QUOTE]

For the image with the cliff in it, think about what your subject is, and frame the image to show off the subject. Draw attention to the subject. There is a lot of space around the cliff, that does not add anything to the image. Simplify.

l_f318a50749614cb1b4ecb71b68dbfa05.jpg


The image of the mountain has a couple distracting phone poles in the foreground. It could also use a polarizer. A valley of trees in the foreground will make the mountain look bigger, than a flat row of trees. Give it a try, & see what you think.

l_81c86ac1fd254726a2e3338c847e0b98.jpg


I like the image of the snow on the tree limbs, but the limbs are in the shade, so the lighter background draws your attention away from the subject. The same image, at a different time of day, would be very nice.

l_c9411c0894224465ac27404af02a97ee.jpg


These images are great for training and making suggestions. Try taking a few photos, working specifically with these basic ideas, and we will go from there.

Good show :)
 
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