pivoting frames and mounting campers

jesusgatos

Explorer
Where I come from chassis flex is frowned upon and actively worked against. Chassis flex is a spring that you can not easily tune or account for. An uncontrollable variable - better to eliminate it.
I realize that this really isn't feasible or possible with a ladder frame of this length, but the very idea of designing to flex it intentionally is abhorrent to me. Designing to deal with it's undesired flex is another thing entirely.
I would think that with a box of the size usually used on trucks of this size that one could design the structure with enough torsional strength that any sort of flexible mounting method would be unnecessary. Obviously that isn't so easily done or it would have been the path long taken.
This thread on Pirate4x4 just got revived, and those guys are talking about modified buggies, but I don't think it would be too difficult to build an expedition vehicle using a rollcage as the perimeter and foundation of the cab and box. Maybe it's a different conversation better-suited to another thread...
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I've no idea what they might have to say Jesse, I quit reading PoOR about the same time that I joined rdc. :)

A monocoque design approach to building the box would yield a stiffer unit at less weight to potentially a lot less weight, and with less objectionable intrusion into the human space than in trying to do it with a tube frame.
The key would be that the interior panels, and not just the inner skin of the outer walls, would need to be designed as box structure and not just as cabinets. Even though he framed in tube, Rob Gray appears to have had this in his mind when he built his two machines.
 

dzzz

Hi all, I have been following this thread and have a couple of points to make.Kerry asked

How do the australian rigs survive the stresses of flex.Now I'm know expert here but I think

you will find that they first,let the suspension do the work.There's a big clue in warriors

web site with the new spring pack. I personally would lengthen the springs, then drop one

spring off the pack, then add one coilspring above this.Secondly rigid mount the rear of

the box to the chassis and then add 3-4 retaining springs down the length of the chassis

rails, on both sides. This lets the chassis twist when needed.I am sure that I supplied some

photos of the spring mounts that warrior use, on the old expo site,Maybe Haven can dig them

up.They were scanned photos of the warrior in an Australian 4wd magazine and quite clearly

show there mounting system.This also explains how they can keep the height down.

Anyone have these photos? This sounds like a simpler system
 

iandraz

Adventurer
I did some testing of my in-progress 4 point mounting system build. Here's a video:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/iandraz/3517167547/

There's a lot of flex there, and this is with no load. I would be wary of traversing rough terrain without a design that allows for this twisting. Even if you can minimize the frame flex with a stiff camper box or reinforced frame, there would likely be stress concentrations created that could cause problems later.
 

jesusgatos

Explorer
I've no idea what they might have to say Jesse, I quit reading PoOR about the same time that I joined rdc. :)

A monocoque design approach to building the box would yield a stiffer unit at less weight to potentially a lot less weight, and with less objectionable intrusion into the human space than in trying to do it with a tube frame.
The key would be that the interior panels, and not just the inner skin of the outer walls, would need to be designed as box structure and not just as cabinets. Even though he framed in tube, Rob Gray appears to have had this in his mind when he built his two machines.
Hah. Just like the rest of the forums; there's some good tech under all the layers of bullMMMM. What you're saying makes sense. I think you gave me the same input regarding the transmission tunnel/backbone of that 4WD buggy I was designing over on RDC. I'm going through the same thing right now with a cabover storage box that I need to build for mah deuce. Sheetmetal would probably be the best way to do it, but I think I might have to build out of tube and then skin it. I tend to think in terms of tubing because it's within my means (budget & ability) to build with.
 

boblynch

Adventurer
I did some testing of my in-progress 4 point mounting system build. Here's a video:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/iandraz/3517167547/

There's a lot of flex there, and this is with no load. I would be wary of traversing rough terrain without a design that allows for this twisting. Even if you can minimize the frame flex with a stiff camper box or reinforced frame, there would likely be stress concentrations created that could cause problems later.

Very cool - thanks for posting. I'm looking at flatbed for a cabover truck camper and am trying to address flexibility without having a major gap between the bottom of the camper and top of the truck cab.

What are the dimensions of your materials (square tubing, rear pivot, etc.)? What is the approximate height from the top of the frame rails to the top of the cross members? In other words how tall is the overall system?
 

dzzz

Very cool - thanks for posting. I'm looking at flatbed for a cabover truck camper and am trying to address flexibility without having a major gap between the bottom of the camper and top of the truck cab.

.........

Then the fixed points probably need to be in front.
 

dzzz

I did some testing of my in-progress 4 point mounting system build. Here's a video:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/iandraz/3517167547/

There's a lot of flex there, and this is with no load. I would be wary of traversing rough terrain without a design that allows for this twisting. Even if you can minimize the frame flex with a stiff camper box or reinforced frame, there would likely be stress concentrations created that could cause problems later.

I'm not sure by you comment if you likes the result or not. I think that looked good for no load. Weight and walls will make it even better. The biggest camper stress point will be the door, which I assume you putting at the low middle.
 

iandraz

Adventurer
Yes, I'm quite happy with the result so far. This is only tack-welded together at this point and as you say, the walls and interior components will stiffen things a lot. The frame flexes a bit more than even I was expecting but fortunately the pivots do allow for it. I will have to be careful mounting tanks and batteries to the frame to avoid interference with the camper.

I don't know if I mentioned it but I should note this design uses Trelleborg VP rubber bushings for the pivot points. Here's the link to the datasheet:

www.trelleborg.com/upload/IndAVS/Files/Industrial%20PDF/VP&UD.pdf

I don't know what other people are using, it seems some are using a simple bolt pivot?

The floor of the camper will only be about 2-3 inches above the truck frame which I think is unique for a 4 point mounting system. Most designs are quite a lot higher.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
I did some testing of my in-progress 4 point mounting system build. Here's a video:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/iandraz/3517167547/

There's a lot of flex there, and this is with no load. I would be wary of traversing rough terrain without a design that allows for this twisting. Even if you can minimize the frame flex with a stiff camper box or reinforced frame, there would likely be stress concentrations created that could cause problems later.

Very good video.
 

dzzz

I don't know if I mentioned it but I should note this design uses Trelleborg VP rubber bushings for the pivot points.

Could you take some close up shots of the bushing and pivot? I appreciate you pointing out the Trelleborg product.
 

iandraz

Adventurer
Sure:

2438033738_23b5390b27.jpg


Link

430121189_d25b31e53c.jpg


Link
 

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