power panel questions/suggestions

[shade]

Dont confuse PC with Arcylic.
Fwiw.
Sheet PC can be cold worked like sheetmetal. Sheared, die cut & punched, bent in a brake.
It wont be cracking around screwthreads.

Oh, I know the difference. I wouldn't think of using acrylic (Plexiglass) for this. I wasn't sure if I was missing something about its properties. I used to make sleds out of scrap polycarbonate by heating the leading edge in our oven and bending it over. I've drilled and sawed it, but never punched or used a press brake on it. Fwiw, I won't be using it this way, but it gloms onto screw threads nicely when it gets melty during insertion.

I wonder how transparent aluminum would work.


Crap, they actually made it!

 

[shade]

Yup, was hoping to bolt all the **** back up tonight, but we had to put our 14yo gsd down this morning and the wife took it hard

My stupid ass lab was like cool, all this room is mine now, solid.

I meant to say earlier, sorry for your loss. 14 years is a good run for a bigger dog.

 

[blackohio]

I meant to say earlier, sorry for your loss. 14 years is a good run for a bigger dog.

thanks, she was the absolute best ************** dog ever. sweet, kind, smart, protector

 

[Photobug]

thanks, she was the absolute best ************** dog ever. sweet, kind, smart, protector

Sorry for your loss. Our dogs are a major consideration in our expedition vehicle build and plans.

 

[blackohio]

Sorry for your loss. Our dogs are a major consideration in our expedition vehicle build and plans.

almost 100% of the reasoning for this plan and reconfiguration of the bed was for the space they could have and i’m an idiot.

 

[Alloy]

I was also thinking more about this. Seems like oversizing the holes would allow for expansion/contraction, and could aid in reducing vibrations to the electrics.

I don't plan to thread screws directly into the material; I prefer bolts or machine screws.

Tools or a surface that has been use prevoiusly with cutting fliud will transfer chemical that will cause the polycarbonate/Tufak/Lexan to crack.

Fatiuge/stress cracking will happen if polycarbonate is bolted (best to clamp with cushion blocks) to/into a frame or equipment that is not flat/true.

Fatiuge/stress cracking will happen when the weight of equipment causes the bolts (best to use sleeves or grommets) to cut into the plastic.

Environmental stress cracking - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[shade]

Tools or a surface that has been use prevoiusly with cutting fliud will transfer chemical that will cause the polycarbonate/Tufak/Lexan to crack.

Fatiuge/stress cracking will happen if polycarbonate is bolted (best to clamp with cushion blocks) to/into a frame or equipment that is not flat/true.

Fatiuge/stress cracking will happen when the weight of equipment causes the bolts (best to use sleeves or grommets) to cut into the plastic.

Environmental stress cracking - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

No reason to use cutting fluid on 1/4" PC. I rarely use cutting fluid, but I'll make sure no tool contamination occurs.

The sheet will be fixed to a flat rib with cushioning and clearance for expansion. I'll probably sleeve the bolt holes with short sections of hose, captured between the rib and a flat washer at the bolt head.

 

[blackohio]

getting there with way too big of an inverter

 

[Alloy]

No reason to use cutting fluid on 1/4" PC. I rarely use cutting fluid, but I'll make sure no tool contamination occurs.

The sheet will be fixed to a flat rib with cushioning and clearance for expansion. I'll probably sleeve the bolt holes with short sections of hose, captured between the rib and a flat washer at the bolt head.

Plastic (nylon) shoulder washers is an option.
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-shoulder-washer-nyl-14-in-pk40-24sw0250b/i/G3222633/

 

[shade]

getting there with way too big of an inverter
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I hope you have time over the weekend to finish up.

I think I've found my backing board. A piece of 1/2" CE Canvas Electrical Grade Phenolic Sheet ought to work well. It's overkill, but the price was right.

 

[blackohio]

all in and operational. just need to run wires to factory battery

 

[shade]

Yes!
You will find working that stuff noxious, but thats good stuff for electrical backboards.

I'll have to read about cutting & drilling it, but it may end up being the right size as is. My guess is that sharp & slow works best for holes.

 

[shade]

Drilling normally no problem. But any other process what creates dust or burning (dull tooling, too fast feeding, etc) is nasty...
Its easily shaped with sharp woodworking tools.
Save your scraps to make knifehandles or such...

Thanks for the tips.

 

[Alloy]

I'll have to read about cutting & drilling it, but it may end up being the right size as is. My guess is that sharp & slow works best for holes.

What Verkstad said X2.

A much better choice vs. polycarbonate

I use carbide tooling on Phenoic with the exception of bi-metal hole saws and fine tooth jig saw blades. Cooling the blade from the back side with air makes the blades last longer.

When using hole saws cooling with air and clearing the powder out of the cut is really important.

Phenolic is a laminate. Heat will make it de-laminate.

Drilling may cause the back to chip/blow out. Try a few test holes before doing the real thing.

Edges are sharp enough to cut.

 

[shade]

all in and operational. just need to run wires to factory battery

View attachment 538830View attachment 538831View attachment 538834View attachment 538830View attachment 538831View attachment 538834

That looks better than OEM. Well done.

Do you plan to add a guard over it?