Prepping an older 4runner for a trip?

[Nivel Egres]

I am eyeing a few 3rd generation 4runners in my viscinity at really attractive prices - my budget is 10-12 and these are all in the 2-4k range. I am ok with paying a local mechanic to fix whatever nessesary as long as I stay under or close to the budget. Assuming I want this vehicle to take me to Chile and back and it will see some mild off-road use
-- what are no-go issues when I see the car?
-- what prophylactic fixes and modifications do I want to do?
-- how do people mod their interior to organize with storage etc?
-- any suggested smart hacks that will help me on a long trip?
-- what do i do for outside storage (roof rack? boxes?)?
-- good links, mechanic referrals etc are super-welcome!

 

[Clawhammer]

I'll preface what I'm about the say by stating that I don't own a 4runner, but am a fan and I have a Taco the same generation that you're looking at and they're similar in a lot of ways. So, with that said...

If one's got the 3.4 V6, make sure the timing belt was changed at 100k or have it done immediately.

Build a platform or maybe drawers in the back to maximize sleeping/storage space. Lots of examples online.

Consider an aftermarket trans cooler. (I've heard of people getting the "strawberry milkshake of death" online, but never actually heard about it in real life, so who knows).

If it's like a Tacoma, the suspension may well be shot (leaf springs are weak on these in my opinion) so consider upgrading (I like OME).

Hack the under-hood fuse box so the power outlets are on all the time. I did this and love it for charging phones while camping. This is for a Tacoma (like I have), but I think a 4runner is the same: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-outlet-mod.62495/

These come with a roof rack, right? I'd work with what you've got and upgrade components for rooftop storage/baskets/RTT as needed.

I think these 4Runners have some of the infamous frame-rust issue a lot of Toyotas have, so check that out well. They may not though, as many of them were built in Japan using different parts suppliers than those built in the US. Don't quote me on that though.

If you can find one with a locker, that would be a nice bonus.

265/75r16 tires should fit with no/minor rubbing. I'd recommend a good set of AT's.

Are you familiar with the Desk to Glory folks? (They're on the forum). They're traveling in Latin America out of a Toyota pickup and it might be helpful to see what they've got going on. Best of luck, be careful, and post lots of pics.

 

[Nivel Egres]

Oh, thank you! Very helpful. I am reading the Desk to Glory thread right now and realize how little I know and what a ****-show I am getting myself into. This said, I am going to use a pro shop for pretty much all "moving parts", while non-driving parts I'll modify myself (e.g. interior build, lights, solar, rack etc).

Does this list make sense at all?
Does lifted suspension help on muddy roads? I just need to be able to get across dirt/gravel
Do I really need a winch? It screams "adventure" and problems associated with it
I probably want a good suspension upgrade - what's the best source?
I probably want a good locking diff - what's the best bang per buck?
Do I really need these expensive bumpers?

edit: I guess once some part of the car looks the part, I might as well go full monty - e.g. once AT tires and roof rack are on, I might as well paint "adventure" on the side

 

[v_man]

I would look into an auto locking diff , like a Lock-Rite or an Aussie . You can get by without a lift , and you definitely don't need a winch at this point . Good tires and a locked rear will take you anywhere. Also , all the questions you're asking in this thread and the other one you created have been asked countless times over the years . Do the online research , put the time in , read the trip reports and build threads , figuring things out on your own is way more satisfying than having others spoon feed it to you ....

 

[austintaco]

If the truck is not much over 100K, and the timing belt, I would not pass on it. Use that as a bargaining edge to lower the price. Budget in about $1000 to have it done with all of the needed OEM parts. Make sure the jiggle valve on the thermostat is pointed down when the timing belt is done. Get a scangauge or ultragauge and then find the code online to monitor your trans temps if you end up with an auto.
Be picky about the one you choose. You can afford to be, and there are many of them out there. Great trucks, and a wealth of knowledge on here, YT, etc.... oh, yeah, check out Sonoran Steel for some mods.

 

[Nivel Egres]

Thanks for the info on the diffs and the other stuff. That's more or less what I thought.

Honestly, while I have read a few threads and trip reports, I'd rather be spoon-fed if it makes it more efficient. Figuring could be more satisfying if I actually enjoyed the mechanical aspect of it, which i dont really. Also, there is a potential for trial and error which I want to avoid. Once on the road, I have an idea what to do (I have done a few long road trips in my old Volvo) but I am not a mechanic type nor do I aspire to be.

 

[p nut]

I would look into an auto locking diff , like a Lock-Rite or an Aussie .....

I would vote against a lunchbox locker like Lock-rite. On-road manners would not be optimal, and snowy roads could be scary. I'd MUCH prefer ARB or factory e-locker, or if that's too expensive, sticking with open diffs and picking up a couple Maxtrax. Quite a few 3rd Gen 4Runners came with a factory locker, so keep your eye out for that "RR DIFF" button.

 

[v_man]

^^ Just curious but have you had a vehicle with a rear auto locker? Because they are nearly seamless on the road in my past trucks , snow is also a non issue as long as you don't also have a locked front . But common internet lore is that they are horendous on the road and they suck in snow . Balderdash.

Again , this is why you need to do your research , one person gives you an opinion , another offers a differing viewpoint . If money was no object the selectable for sure , but sounds like the OP is on some sort of budget, and an auto is probably at least 1/2 the cost of an ARB setup if not less...

 

[p nut]

Owned, no. Rode in, yes. Lots of jolts and tire screeching. Maybe it wasn't set up right, but I was not impressed. Snow would be much worse. Again, I would just save money and leave lockers out altogether, if one with (a functional) e-locker can't be found.

 

[Nivel Egres]

Actually, the one I saw today has an original Toyota rear diff. The guy apparently has NEVER driven it off pavement. The frame looks spotless and the truck overall feels very babied. So it shall begin, assuming he will agree with me on price.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Where abouts do you reside, Nivel? If you're in the Seattle area I can put you in touch with a couple of great shops that can surely square you away.

Also, did a google search for "3rd gen 4runner buyers guide". Possibly the most useful post I've seen on a 4Runner forum.

I'd link it, but I don't know if that would get me in trouble on this forum. So of them don't appreciate that kinda stuff.

If I were in the market for another 3rd gen 4Runner I'd be looking EXCLUSIVELY for a 99 or 00 Limited, with the locking rear diff. In 99 and 00 the Limiteds were given the "multi mode" transfer case, and still had the option for a rear diff locker. I'd kill for the all wheel drive setting of the multi mode.

 

[P40Wolf]

Thanks for the info on the diffs and the other stuff. That's more or less what I thought.

Honestly, while I have read a few threads and trip reports, I'd rather be spoon-fed if it makes it more efficient. Figuring could be more satisfying if I actually enjoyed the mechanical aspect of it, which i dont really. Also, there is a potential for trial and error which I want to avoid. Once on the road, I have an idea what to do (I have done a few long road trips in my old Volvo) but I am not a mechanic type nor do I aspire to be.

Strongly suggest, on a road trip of this magnitude, you get handy with a wrench. You will have to do work on your vehicle, regardless if it is just general maintenance or a roadside fix. Stuff happens. Most people who don't do their own work also never leave pavement. Rural roads in the states can pretty well shake up a rig and cause something to fail (washboards), or a part will ust fail because of age. Ujoints, bearings, seals in the drivetrain: these were never meant to be permanently unchanged parts.
Plus, the more you do yourself, the more she will be "YOUR" truck, and your mindset will keep you from really getting too far into a situation that could hurt your truck.

If you get a 4Runner without a locking rear diff from the factory (mine has) You could probably find one in the Junkyard. Also, the last years of the 2nd Gen Tacoma, in the Pre-Runner 2wds, has a locker, which I understand swaps in almost directly. The only issue I have heard or seen with the Toyota OEM Locker is the solenoid for the locker can get contaminated and fail, and then no locker. 99% of people nave never used the locker, so many may not even know it. The rigs from places that use salt on the roads or are coastal with the salty sea air are pretty susceptible: salt ruins all things, not just metal.

I have never had a winch. The only time I wished I had was dragging a 6 point bull elk UP to the road where my truck was. careful driving will get you everywhere. I once watched a guy bog his H1 Hummer, then wowed all the people by getting out to lock in my hubs (my old dodge is all manual everything) to go in and pull him out: they thought I had been in 4wd all day.

 

[kylevd23]

This is on the 4 runner forum, very good read, and tons of information on different years of the 4runner and options, very well organized and put together for everyone. I was also interested in the 4runner and stumbled upon this.

Did you purchase one yet btw?

 

[dms1]

If you change the timing belt, I recommend you replace the water pump and thermostat at the same time, will save a lot of hassle later. An OME suspension should work out just fine.

 

[QuadsBC]

Replace lower ball joints every 100k with oem only. Look into doing an external transmission cooler. This will save you from a pink milkshake.