Project "Autonomous" F-350

VroomSIX

Member
I run a 300 Six in my truck and it won't get you anywhere fast but it'll always get you there! These engines really benefit from some head work as the head is very choked up. Small valves mean low-end torque, but if you have the right gearing you can push the peak torque up a little higher in the powerband and it won't feel so breathless on the highway. SBC roller rockers apparently also do wonders. Either way good on you for choosing a big six!
 

NevadaLover

Forking Icehole
Cheap, that's what I meant. :D Out the door with stock components and not including a transmission adapter or shipping, the 4BT is $7500. In the truck it would be pushing 10K. I'll take my free dinosaur any day.

Best part about an inline 6 gasser versus a diesel is the peace and quiet you enjoy with the gasser, torque is better with a diesel but it doesn't make up for the stink and noise of a diesel!
Stick with the gasser and you won't regret it!
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Crack kills! Going to epoxy it. I did some research on welding and it sounds like it's risky. It might have been due to the way the engine is mounted in the old trucks. There is a single mount on the front of the engine, and a pair on the bell housing. It's a long motor, and a lot of weight on the 4 bolts that attach the transmission. I have switched to the mid mounts on both sides, and was considering still using the front mount since the transmission mount will now be moved back to the transfercase adapter. I will be doing a lot of rough road and trail driving so it's important to support everything well.

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Since that is an area where it is recessed behind the flywheel, I would strap brace it. Easy enough to make a thick strap and drill and tap some holes on each side of the crack. You could do it from the outside. It looks like enough room to use two straps. One across the top and one on the front. Epoxy is not going to help as you would need to get down inside the crack for it help structurly.
 

Chorky

Observer
What researched showed a welding risk? I'm curious.... Like Hillbilly, I personally wouldn't feel very comfortable with epoxy - then again, I'm not familiar with epoxy on metal much.... Have you been able to figure out how deep the crack is??
 

java

Expedition Leader
Why not weld? I think epoxy 'could' work (I have had great luck on my flexy alu boat with it) but I fear you would not be able to get it clean enough in the crack. Welding just seems like the obvious choice. Preheat well, go to town.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Welding without preheating can cause additional cracking. I don't want to tear the entire engine down to the bare block in order to preheat it. I don't have a stick welder or a tig so I would have to take it to someone. If it cracks, the block will be toast, that's a big risk. I like Hillbilly's idea of strapping.
 

java

Expedition Leader
Welding without preheating can cause additional cracking. I don't want to tear the entire engine down to the bare block in order to preheat it. I don't have a stick welder or a tig so I would have to take it to someone. If it cracks, the block will be toast, that's a big risk. I like Hillbilly's idea of strapping.
You don't need to preheat the whole block, just the general area. I think you'd be just fine heating that wing where the crack is

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Chorky

Observer
Welding without preheating can cause additional cracking. I don't want to tear the entire engine down to the bare block in order to preheat it. I don't have a stick welder or a tig so I would have to take it to someone. If it cracks, the block will be toast, that's a big risk. I like Hillbilly's idea of strapping.

ah ok makes sense now. straps isnt a horrible idea but I feel like if not very cautious, they could cause more damage and cracking. I guess it also depends on how much stress that area gets. Especially if you plan on using all the available mounts then the overall stress level should be reduced significantly. Either way I hope you come up with a good solution that your comfortable with.
 
Need some way of detecting the full extent of the crack. They make dyes for crack detection. Once the whole crack has been identified you drill a hole at each end of the crack. This prevents further cracking. Once the holes are drilled you can preheat the area and weld. With that type of crack I would take a small die grinder or right angle grinder and V groove the crack. Doesn't have to be deep, just enough to lay a root pass. Clean up the weld and lay a cap pass. Depending on what process you use for welding I would use a high nickel content weld filler. I have successfully welded blocks with cracked water jackets before. Granted they were not as thick as the area you have and were not a stress point like that.

Maybe my welding method combined with strapping after weld would erase it from your mind forever.
 
Oh does it seem like major projects are always one step forward and two steps back? Maybe that is why it takes me so long to finish a project. Those unforeseen things that trip you up.

I guess you are going with Poly mounts for motor and transfer case. I also guess you know not to mix rigid with flexible mounts. One or the other not both. Knowing what you do for a living I guess you have sources for fab mounts. If you get stumped on mounting, pay a visit to the guys over at Autofab. They do and know Fords.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Oh does it seem like major projects are always one step forward and two steps back? Maybe that is why it takes me so long to finish a project. Those unforeseen things that trip you up.

I guess you are going with Poly mounts for motor and transfer case. I also guess you know not to mix rigid with flexible mounts. One or the other not both. Knowing what you do for a living I guess you have sources for fab mounts. If you get stumped on mounting, pay a visit to the guys over at Autofab. They do and know Fords.

The mounts will be fabricated. I don't think this engine ever came in an 88 F250.
 

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