Project WAR WAG
- Thread starter Outback
- Start date
stevo-mt
Member
I ended up cutting out the fenders pretty well on the front and the rear. The guy that builds steel spacers, i'll have to look up his name made me some 3" ones. In theory with the h1 wheel offset it shouldn't add too much more strain on the rear axle's bearings, but I guess time will tell. The front has DRW hubs. The front tires had pretty good clearance in the front so I moved the fender flare back, flush with the front of the fender, and only cut from the rear. I had to bend some steel and rivet the fender back together. Luckily the fender flare covered it all up. Haven't rubbed yet! It was 30 deg F below zero here, so its good to see someone getting some work done!
Outback
Explorer
Your tank filler project is coming along nicely Outback. A quick and easy install is the way to go....
Thanks. I was originally going to make it all look factory. Then I started thinking nothing else is factory "Fresh" so why make it all show room perfect?
Outback
Explorer
I do not think it will add any strain on the bearings. Let me know who and how much. I would like to get a set. I may even need two sets. My next project looks like its going to be a Suburban.
Outback
Explorer
So here is the door after a test fitting. Need a few more minutes of fitting and it will be done. Then all I have to do is prep, paint and rivet. As you can see the bed is already prepped from the factory (minus the fuel door opening) to have a side saddle tank. The door insert has been flanged on all sides. I will then drill through the bed and through the flange. Rivets will hold it all in place.
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stevo-mt
Member
http://www.wheeladapter.com/
The guy takes a piece of round stock and machines them out after you order them. The studs and lugnuts are premium ones. It wasn't cheap by any means. Close to 480 for two 3" spacers and shipping. They are the best I was able to find. I have a set of 2" aluminum ones that I was using more for mock up than anything and there wasn't any clearance problems with those. Four steel 2" spacers might work for you, but double check and measure for sure! I am having a heck of a time getting my wheels/tires to balance out right, so I'll have to try some bb's or something. They don't go over 65 (not that the truck will do that anyways) and there is a crazy speed gap from 35-42 mph where they vibrate. I'm kind of wishing I had the 2" spacers so I could swap some h2 wheels on with 17" 37s and be able to go down the highway better. I'm guessing it's going to be too wide with drw hubs to do h2 wheels and just keep the h1s for wheeling and fun.
Anyways good luck
The guy takes a piece of round stock and machines them out after you order them. The studs and lugnuts are premium ones. It wasn't cheap by any means. Close to 480 for two 3" spacers and shipping. They are the best I was able to find. I have a set of 2" aluminum ones that I was using more for mock up than anything and there wasn't any clearance problems with those. Four steel 2" spacers might work for you, but double check and measure for sure! I am having a heck of a time getting my wheels/tires to balance out right, so I'll have to try some bb's or something. They don't go over 65 (not that the truck will do that anyways) and there is a crazy speed gap from 35-42 mph where they vibrate. I'm kind of wishing I had the 2" spacers so I could swap some h2 wheels on with 17" 37s and be able to go down the highway better. I'm guessing it's going to be too wide with drw hubs to do h2 wheels and just keep the h1s for wheeling and fun.
Anyways good luck
stevo-mt
Member
The stock stud's were within the spacers on the 2" and 3" sets. They give you specail set of lugnuts that are a bit smaller to fit inside. The aluminum spacers required a thinwalled socket and were a pain, but the steel ones could do it with a regular 1/2" socket and went on great.
geckoadventure
Geckoadventure
Subscribed love watching old trucks be transformed.
Unfortunately its way too big a vehicle for our tight muddy jungle tracks
Unfortunately its way too big a vehicle for our tight muddy jungle tracks
Outback
Explorer
So my next step is to actually attach the fuel door. The easiest way would be to just rivet the door on. But after looking at it I would really like to weld it on now. I picked up a nice welder and just need to have my garaged wired for the 240 plug. A project within a project. So stay tuned.
Outback
Explorer
I figure that since I have been wanting to build my own rock sliders and rear tire rack that I may as well drop some coin and pick up a pretty nice wire fed welder. I found this nice Lincoln welder at my local Home Depot (no Harbor Frieght for this tool). With all of the acceries and after I have it wired up I will be into this set up for around $1,000. I wanted the 180 model as it can weld up to 1/2" thick material. I believe I will go up to 1/4" material but wanted the capability to weld thicker material if needed. I also wanted the 240 volt as they are much more efficient. I have an electricain coming out Monday.
Outback
Explorer
UPDATE.
Sorry for such a delay. I have started a new job. OK so here is what I found last weekend at my local Pick A Part. A busted knuckle, 10 minutes and $12 bucks later she was mine. She is for a diesel which is what took me so long to find one. That and its for the Passenger side.
Sorry for such a delay. I have started a new job. OK so here is what I found last weekend at my local Pick A Part. A busted knuckle, 10 minutes and $12 bucks later she was mine. She is for a diesel which is what took me so long to find one. That and its for the Passenger side.
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