Question about hydraulic systems on a series IIa

[Wander]

I was wondering if the RHD would be difficult in the LHD world, what makes it difficult?

I noticed that this shop seems to have a lot of 4 light rigs-must have been a popular thing at some point. Does having 4 headlights tax the electricals at all? I guess I should find out if they all do work first.

 

[evilfij]

I am not sure what you are planning on spending, but I would look for one with a galvanized frame.

Also, $2000 is insane for a hydraullic system rebuild. Seals only, it is about $100 in parts or less (3x ~$20 for brake MC, clutch MC and SC plus $8 per wheel cylinder). I like doing seals unless the cylinders are pitted as the original cylinders are really better material than replacements. Unless you damage the brake lines it is not hard to do. You can do the wheel cylinders without removing the lines.

 

[Alaska Mike]

I was wondering if the RHD would be difficult in the LHD world, what makes it difficult?

I noticed that this shop seems to have a lot of 4 light rigs-must have been a popular thing at some point. Does having 4 headlights tax the electricals at all? I guess I should find out if they all do work first.

For me it is. Some people have no problem (like your postman). For me it's about the visibility and shifting coordination, not to mention the visual perspective for the driver is changed (think merging onto a highway). I've driven some RHD vehicles, and they took some getting used to. Can't say I liked the experience, especially when I was switching between LHD and RHD. YMMV. Just something to think about when you're looking.

As for the 4 headlights, if functional they would be a custom wiring job. The quality of that work would determine the effectiveness of the lights. I briefly considered installing a Series IIA grill on my Rover to get that look. Seemed like a good place to mount some round auxilliary lights. Of course, the wiring would have been through it's own relay to the battery. I certainly wouldn't have spliced the extra lights into the existing harness, because of the risk of taxing the wiring with amperage it wasn't designed for. Dim lights and heat are usually the result. There may have been a bit of fudge-factor included in the design, but I generally don't trust much wiring that's older than I am in a vibrating environment. Besides, any time you cut into the wiring harness you run the risk of letting the smoke out. NOS Lucas-brand smoke is becoming increasingly hard to get, and the Britpart replacements aren't nearly as effective.

Pop the hood and look how it was tied in (if at all). There's not much of a harness there, so it should be easy to trace.

 

[Alaska Mike]

I am not sure what you are planning on spending, but I would look for one with a galvanized frame.

In your environment (East Coast), I certainly wouldn't think a galvy frame would be a bad idea if you can find one. Beyond the corrosion issue, you would also be getting a vehicle that was disassembled for the frame swap. When people do projects like that, they usually replace/clean a lot of hardware and generally tidy up things a bit. If they do a good job, there can be quite a few intangibles included.

 

[SunTzuNephew]

If you're going to get a new frame, why not have it powder coated? Wouldn't that be the best protection?

And if so, getting a galvanized frame would be pointless: The zinc would be sand blasted off in prep.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Hot dip galvy is a far better method of protection. Doesn't chip like PC does. I think we've all seen PC'd side steps or bull bars on vehicles that are bubbled and peeling. Galvy will also get everywhere on the chassis, this is very important as Series chassis rot from the inside out.
Galvy series frames have been around for a long time now and aren't that expensive all things considered.

 

[SunTzuNephew]

Hot dip galvy is a far better method of protection. Doesn't chip like PC does. I think we've all seen PC'd side steps or bull bars on vehicles that are bubbled and peeling. Galvy will also get everywhere on the chassis, this is very important as Series chassis rot from the inside out.
Galvy series frames have been around for a long time now and aren't that expensive all things considered.

Thanks! Good to know. Any other treatments that are good to protect a new resto?

 

[Wander]

As much as I'd love to find a galv frame I doubt I can afford that right now. I am very curious on the condition of these frames as they both first lived in England. I NC we are lucky to not have much of a corrosion problem as we don't use salt-rarely have snow. It is humid so moisture is always present. Of the Rovers I've seen those with a galv frame have all been over 10K-I'm looking to spend 1/2 that at most (for the initial purchase) so I'll have to accept the best frame I can find and save up for a swap down the road. One of my other considerations is a built Land Cruiser FJ 62 that is pretty close by, has no rust and was rebuilt 8k ago. It is more than I want to spend but there might be some room in the price. The odd thing is the LC would make a much better choice for real overland use, requires much less attention, is cheaper to keep, etc... BUT it doesn't hold the same appeal-there isn't the same emotional factor that the Land Rover holds. Honestly the odds that I and my family could all find the time for overlanding are slim and the Cruiser won't fit under my garage door. I know that a galv frame is a great thing to have in the Rover and the odds a 40+ frame is clean are just below zero but the frame and bulkhead condition are factors 1 and 2 in my decision and I'm hoping to have pictures of those this weekend.

 

[stevenmd]

It may sound corny but I can remember watching Mutual of Omaha as a kid (when TV's were also furniture) and falling for the Land Rovers. They looked so unique yet simple, form follows function and they represented adventure for me.

You and me both!

As for the RHD, I love it and prefer it. I am now in the process of sourcing the parts to convert my RRC to RHD. I just find it more comfortable and natural to drive. Maybe I am a glutton for punishment?:snorkel:

 

[I Leak Oil]

I know that a galv frame is a great thing to have in the Rover and the odds a 40+ frame is clean are just below zero but the frame and bulkhead condition are factors 1 and 2 in my decision and I'm hoping to have pictures of those this weekend.

100% spot on. Bulkhead and frame should be in the best condition you can find for your budget. Everything else can be fixed or replaced with relative ease.

 

[Alaska Mike]

As much as I'd love to find a galv frame I doubt I can afford that right now. I am very curious on the condition of these frames as they both first lived in England. I NC we are lucky to not have much of a corrosion problem as we don't use salt-rarely have snow. It is humid so moisture is always present. Of the Rovers I've seen those with a galv frame have all been over 10K-I'm looking to spend 1/2 that at most (for the initial purchase) so I'll have to accept the best frame I can find and save up for a swap down the road. One of my other considerations is a built Land Cruiser FJ 62 that is pretty close by, has no rust and was rebuilt 8k ago. It is more than I want to spend but there might be some room in the price. The odd thing is the LC would make a much better choice for real overland use, requires much less attention, is cheaper to keep, etc... BUT it doesn't hold the same appeal-there isn't the same emotional factor that the Land Rover holds. Honestly the odds that I and my family could all find the time for overlanding are slim and the Cruiser won't fit under my garage door. I know that a galv frame is a great thing to have in the Rover and the odds a 40+ frame is clean are just below zero but the frame and bulkhead condition are factors 1 and 2 in my decision and I'm hoping to have pictures of those this weekend.

I'm completely with you on the cost thing. I was merely pointing out that some people think a galvanized frame only means that the frame was replaced. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't. Chances are there's a lot more that went into it.

I'm also in complete agreement about the Cruiser. While my brain tells me that they're the best thing since sliced bread for overlanding, my heart just doesn't do flipflops for them. Then again, my heart is fickle. I used to drool like Pavlov's dog every time I passed a Jeep of just about any vintage, but that has faded over the years. Now it's Series Rovers. Maybe in 20 years it will be Toyotas.

Definitely get under the frame and tap and poke around. Bring a big screwdriver and a flashlight, and don't be afraid to move the floormats around. Check closely around the windshield channel as well if at all possible, since they can corrode badly there as well (ask me how I know).

 

[Wander]

I'm getting the feeling you've had a tough restoration Mike....call me psychic:sombrero:

I am hoping that I'll be able to bend your ear and many others that have posted if this works out because I'll need the help!

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'm getting the feeling you've had a tough restoration Mike....call me psychic:sombrero:

I am hoping that I'll be able to bend your ear and many others that have posted if this works out because I'll need the help!

Restoration? Nahhh. That would imply I was taking it back to a stock configuration. In some ways, I would have preferred to have a stock Rover. Would have been faster, but not necessarily cheaper. The list of what was broken/missing/botched from my Rover was probably longer than what was there. It's like most of the existing parts were placeholders so I would know what to replace. The end result will likely give purists fits, but I'm not building it for them.

The advice I got and probably should have heeded was to spend a little extra money for one in good shape, rather than try to rebuild one. This is especially true up here, as shipping is always many times what it is in the lower 48 and free shipping doesn't exist.

However, I'm learning a lot and I'll likely have greater confidence in the finished product, as everything there will have been touched by me. Maybe that confidence is misplaced...

 

[Wander]

Perhaps resurrection is more correct. You can't discount the experiance you have gained from the project and I for one, am glad to benefit from your advice. I am trying to buy as much as I can to start and if I find the what I am able to buy now will result in a pile of Rover shaped rust in my yard then I'll just have to wait or take a closer look at other options. I will admit to being a person that makes emotional decisions but I've goofed up enough to learn that sometimes it's better to wait (as boring as that can be). Still waiting on the additional pictures and getting as anxious as kid at Christmas.

 

[James86004]

I was wondering if the RHD would be difficult in the LHD world, what makes it difficult?

I drive a RHD, and I think it is almost a non-issue. If you need to travel on toll roads a lot, it can be a pain. At the Golden Gate Bridge, I had to unbuckle my seatbelt and slide over to pay the fare to giggling toll taker.

Drive-throughs are similarly a pain, but you can just park and walk in. The only other thing is occasionally it is hard to turn left at a traffic light that has no turn arrow, because it is hard to see. This is mitigated somewhat by the high seating position and the narrowness of the Rover - it is narrower than most other vehicles on the road, so you really are not too far to the right.