Rear power; 2nd battery or long cables?

Korben

Adventurer
rb70383, I'm new to the forum and new to the party, might as well jump in with my 2 cents here.
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Best I figure the question really isn't what you should do it's what's ideal and where can you cut corners. Given that this is a recovery winch on what sounds like a heavy use rig I'd think it prudent to plan for the worse case. I'm also pretty sure I read or can assume that you have a large front winch plus the smaller bed winch. First real question to my mind is do you think it prudent to be able to run the winches(any of the 3) with the engine not running in case you need to recover the rig from a situation where the engine can't run, it's broken, under water, etc.? If the answer is yes then you absolutely should add a battery or two and wiring is different, this would allow you do drain down the winch battery while keeping the starting batteries charged. How a second battery/winch is connected is secondary to that question.
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rb70383

Observer
Ducky's Dad, Trail damage is a concern of mine as well. I looked under my truck and couldn't see how a "U" would work. I see now it probably wont. Ill definitely borrow some ideas. Thanks again

Korben, Like from the Fifth Element? :) I however don't have a front winch yet. It is planned as well as a rear winch. The bed winch is just a little utility winch that helps drag things onto my trailer. However, I am going to run the rear power for the biggest planned load. The rear recovery winch.

So far from researching and chewing on everyone's input, a second (actually third) battery will be the best bet. Along with a heavy charging cable that I will want disconnected when the truck isn't running. 3rd battery will be my "house" battery.

I had the smaller winch mounted on my trailer directly. I had to carry an extra battery to power the winch. Now that's its mounted on the truck...
a separate battery from the truck will be best. The smaller winch wont kill the battery by itself, well I haven't winched anything long enough to. However for vehicle recovery, yes truck will be running. with my high idle engaged. Given the engine is able to run. :)

I am thinking of mounting it under the flatbed directly. Ill have to build a box and bracket. I like trying to fab so it'll be fun. :snorkel::)
 

Korben

Adventurer
Korben, Like from the Fifth Element? :) I however don't have a front winch yet. It is planned as well as a rear winch. The bed winch is just a little utility winch that helps drag things onto my trailer. However, I am going to run the rear power for the biggest planned load. The rear recovery winch.

So far from researching and chewing on everyone's input, a second (actually third) battery will be the best bet. Along with a heavy charging cable that I will want disconnected when the truck isn't running. 3rd battery will be my "house" battery.

I had the smaller winch mounted on my trailer directly. I had to carry an extra battery to power the winch. Now that's its mounted on the truck...
a separate battery from the truck will be best. The smaller winch wont kill the battery by itself, well I haven't winched anything long enough to. However for vehicle recovery, yes truck will be running. with my high idle engaged. Given the engine is able to run. :)

I am thinking of mounting it under the flatbed directly. Ill have to build a box and bracket. I like trying to fab so it'll be fun. :snorkel::)


OK well here is my suggestions if you intend to use a 'house'/winch battery.
1. Mount the battery as close to the largest load(winch) as is practical to, this shortens the largest most expensive cable, the one between the winch battery and the winch.
2. The cable between the winch and winch battery should be the best cable you can get your hands on within reason. Not just size but # of strands. Electricity flows best on the surface of the strands in the cable, the more/smaller the strands, the more surface, the less resistance. This is why many use welding cable not generic battery cable.
3. The alternator connection, you'll need to add an isolator between your alternator and the batteries. This will allow the alternator to charge all 3 batteries but not connect the starting batteries to the house battery. The isolator, fuse, and wires for it need to be sized to carry the current of the max output of the alternator.
4. The starting battery connection, for this you'll need to add a constant duty solenoid and large cables between the starting batteries and the house battery. Wire the solenoid to a dash mounted toggle switch and size both the solenoid and the cables for at least 2/3rds of the max draw of the winch plus about 50 amps. Why a manual switch, this will let you manually select when you want to draw down the starting batteries to provide more power to the winch. Why 2/3rds + 50, 2/3rds is cause the cables will be carrying the winch load from 2 of the 3 batteries, the plus 50 is cause presumably you'll have drawn down the house battery a bit before engaging the starting batteries. The extra 50 amps is the potential extra charging/differential load of connecting a discharged battery to a charged battery. For example according to Warn a M12000 can draw up to 440amps, 2/3rds of 440 is 295, plus 50 is 345 amps.
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You can skip/put off #4 if funds are tight.
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EDIT For both a front and rear winch I'd suggest modifying the above by centrally mounting the winch battery.
 
Last edited:

firesq14

Observer
I run two winches as well, and I ran 2/0 to the back. I got a deal on real battery cable from a generator supply company. It took 50' to do the whole truck. I also
have Anderson booster plugs front and rear. With a tester, I have zero loss to the rear Anderson plug. 12.64V at the battery, same on the plug. I used stainless
P connectors at no more than 16" intervals using existing fastener bolts and threaded holes along the bottom of my land cruiser.
I also have dual battery, so the winches run on second battery, the truck functions on the start battery. Use an islolator, I have a 750A switch so I have OFF to
winches ( all the time ) 1 - front, 2 - rear, 3 both ( only when actively wheeling )
I also rented a top quality lug crimper and did all my own ends, with exact length cables. Then all lugs have heat shrink in red or black to identify cables at ends.
Take your time, it's not difficult, just need patience.

Wow I would love to see pictures of your whole set up!!!

Thanks

Chris
 

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