I have to say I think it might be a little too much. I think you have the same springs we do though. It looks like you only have the thin block beneath the springs on place? When I put in our new front ones they were high. A quick run down a washboard road settled them down a lot. How much does your truck weigh now? I'm guessing a lot lighter than when you finish and load up.Hi, Does anyone have the specs on the rear propshaft angle torerances? Mine is looking a little extreme..
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I have to say I think it might be a little too much. I think you have the same springs we do though. It looks like you only have the thin block beneath the springs on place? When I put in our new front ones they were high. A quick run down a washboard road settled them down a lot. How much does your truck weigh now? I'm guessing a lot lighter than when you finish and load up.
Thanks for this!Maybe this can help a bit. Extract from the Mercedes equipment directives.
From my recollection only, the angles are supposed to be equal and opposite (and of course minimized) for lowest probability of severe vibration.
In particular, your differential pinion is angled up quite a bit relative to the transfer case output.
The usual way of adjusting that is a wedge at the bottom of the spring pack. For light vehicles they are sometimes made of aluminium, but in the case of a medium or heavy truck, obviously should be steel.
If a driveshaft shop is available, you should consult them.
In these sorts of situations, greasable U-joints along with short servicing intervals are desirable. In desperate situations, custom built CV (“constant velocity”) joints are necessary, basically 2 U-joints in series with a low friction usually greasable ball in between that allows ery low friction articulation between the 2 closely adjacent U-joints.
AFAIK, that’s pretty much it.
It should be OK, provided everything is lined up properly. Make sure the two flanges are parallel, and the propshaft is in phase. Get either wrong and you will have a problem.