retire the rope???

[preacherman]

ok this is one of those, what do you think questions.

here goes... I have a climbing rope that is 12 years old. Normally that is way beyond the point when it would be thrown away but...
I started counting and it has only been used 8 times (all top ropes with no falls). And it has not been used in ten years and has been stored in a rope bag inside a rubbermaid bin in my basement.

What do you guys think, use it this weekend, or retire it?

 

[Desertoutpost]

I climb, throw it away (well save as gear rope, not climb rope). If you doubt, it goes. Rope is cheap, flesh is expensive.

 

[Nuclear Redneck]

Dude, I don't climb, but I wouldn't trust that. Get new rope, and this time don't let it sit in your basement!

 

[theMec]

Normally I'd say toss it but ... it really depends what kind of climbing you're doing w/ it. Top roping is probably ok. Lead climbing is not.
On second thought, get rid of it ...
I replace my rope every 1 to 2 years but I'm climbing quite a bit.

 

[offroad_nomad]

Replace it. New rope is cheap and I bet alot lighter.

 

[grahamfitter]

The rope is probably fine but I'd throw it anyway. I'd also take a look at your harness, webbing, quickdraws, slings on cams, cordelettes, prussics and anything else that deteriorates over time. If you do throw anything away, make sure you chop it up to prevent somebody else from using it.

Cheers,
Graham

 

[BigAl]

Slightly off topic and I'm not trying to be antagonistic but have you guys ever seen a rope fail? I'm really only familiar with static rope used for caving/rapalling. The ropes I've used are routinely wet and muddy, then that mud is ground into the cover with rapall devices and toothed ascendars. The covers get furry or glazed in just a few uses. I've seen anchors fail and rigging done wrong but I've never seen a rope fail. Is rope failure more common in climbing with dynamic ropes?

 

[grahamfitter]

Slightly off topic and I'm not trying to be antagonistic but have you guys ever seen a rope fail? I'm really only familiar with static rope used for caving/rapalling. The ropes I've used are routinely wet and muddy, then that mud is ground into the cover with rapall devices and toothed ascendars. The covers get furry or glazed in just a few uses. I've seen anchors fail and rigging done wrong but I've never seen a rope fail. Is rope failure more common in climbing with dynamic ropes?

Most of the genuinely scary things I see climbing involves anchor rigging where the rope isn't the weak link. I'm really careful who I climb with!

I've not seen a dynamic climbing rope snap but I have seen one wear through the sheath after three or four second-climber falls in the same spot. There was a couple of feet swing to the side over really abrasive rock (Needles at Black Hills in South Dakota.)

I can't comment on caving ropes but I would hope the sheath would be made to handle the conditions you describe and protect the stranded core which provides the strength.

Cheers,
Graham

 

[Desertoutpost]

I have to agree I have only seen anchors fail and not rope. Plenty of times I have gone out with people who are using old gear and rope and I have not climbed or re-rigged with my rope.

 

[DaveInDenver]

The rope is probably fine but I'd throw it anyway. I'd also take a look at your harness, webbing, quickdraws, slings on cams, cordelettes, prussics and anything else that deteriorates over time. If you do throw anything away, make sure you chop it up to prevent somebody else from using it.

Good points, but just because it's been sitting does not mean that it's bad. What kills this stuff is UV, mold, abrasion, etc. If you cleaned the rope, dried it and stored it properly, no reason to think that just sitting in storage is going to ruin it. I mean, a rope that is used often over a summer and put up damp in the fall could be much more dangerous next summer than one that was used a few times and stored well for a few years. The best advice is replace it you have any doubt about it, though. OTOH, if you know the complete history on the piece and can reasonably feel safe, then I would honestly evaluate it. I mean unless the piece of gear is brand spanking new you are always evaluating its safety and there is significant grey area left for you and your partners to decide.

 

[theMec]

grahamfitter: good points about the other gear.
About the rope though .. don't cut it up. There's lot's of uses for old rope. I use mine for light towing, canyoneering (rapelling only), tree work, kid's playground stuff, etc ..

 

[preacherman]

Thanks for the good comments guys. The reason I bring it up is because I know the ropes history. I bought it brand new, have used it for easy top ropes (5.5-5.7) have never fallen on it and cleaned it and dried it before it was stored. It has set in a rope bag away from, mosture, uv light, and anything that would damage it, and has never even been stepped on. I would have no problem using the rope except it is technically "past" time to replace it. Otherwise it is in great shape. I may just use it as a back up/gear hauler/spare.

 

[grahamfitter]

Thanks for the good comments guys. The reason I bring it up is because I know the ropes history. I bought it brand new, have used it for easy top ropes (5.5-5.7) have never fallen on it and cleaned it and dried it before it was stored. It has set in a rope bag away from, mosture, uv light, and anything that would damage it, and has never even been stepped on. I would have no problem using the rope except it is technically "past" time to replace it. Otherwise it is in great shape. I may just use it as a back up/gear hauler/spare.

In that case its probably in better condition than all of my newish ropes which have all been stood on, sat on, slept on, tripped over while wearing crampons, caked in dust, dragged through bushes, frozen solid, yoyod on top rope, and held a few leader falls here and there. Time for replacements for me, too!

Climb on...

Cheers,
Graham

 

[kellymoe]

The most recent occurrence of a rope snapping that I am aware of was in a climbing gym in Northern California. A guy was leading a climb in the gym and purposefully took a winger on his rope, not the gyms rope. The rope snapped and the guy decked from 30 feet up. An analysis was done on the rope and there were traces of acid on the rope that had caused the rope to become brittle throughout the section that failed. Apparently he had thrown the rope in the back of his truck on more than a few occasions. He had also in the past had a car battery in the truck bed for awhile which leaked on to the rope.

I have been climbing for over 25 years and have yet to hear of a rope break from age, heavy use yes, but age no.

 

[cruisertoy]

The most recent occurrence of a rope snapping that I am aware of was in a climbing gym in Northern California. A guy was leading a climb in the gym and purposefully took a winger on his rope, not the gyms rope. The rope snapped and the guy decked from 30 feet up. An analysis was done on the rope and there were traces of acid on the rope that had caused the rope to become brittle throughout the section that failed. Apparently he had thrown the rope in the back of his truck on more than a few occasions. He had also in the past had a car battery in the truck bed for awhile which leaked on to the rope.

I have been climbing for over 25 years and have yet to hear of a rope break from age, heavy use yes, but age no.

I believe I read that he had also coiled it up on the pavement in a parking lot. I've got a rope of about the same history posted by the origional question. I use it for easy top ropes and short rappels with my scouts. A new one will be ordered before my next 5.10+ lead. I have a few that I won't even use for repelling. They hang stuff in my garage or act as guide ropes when I fell trees near the house. I'd buy a new rope just so you won't be tempted to use it on a lead climb where you could take a 20' header.