Russell Speed Bleeders on Fusu FG?

[Tymeryder]

Has anyone installed Russell Speed Bleeders on their FUSO FG, and if so which version (P/N) did you use? Have to match both thread size and taper angle.

I've used them on my motorcycles in the past, and they make bleeding the brake system easy and a 1-person job.

This comes up now because I'm up in Prudhoe Bay (Deadhorse actually), AK, with a failed front right brake hose, due to a rock strike somewhere south of town. Fortunately the line didn't pop and start leaking until I got into town. Have a brake line on order from Tom's Truck, which should arrive in 2-3days. I'll install it, but then I'll need to bleed the system since the reservoir got drained in the process of figuring out the issue.

Probably too late for the Russell's on this incident, but would install them on the future if I can find a set that fits. Will likely have to pay big bucks at a shop to have them bled this time.
Doug

PS, ran into Reed Resnikoff in his FX up here the past 3 days. He's headed back south now. Weather is in low 30's and 20mph winds.

 

[javajoe79]

Personally I'm not a fan. A good bleeder bottle is all you need for a one man bleed.

 

[skippythedog]

There is a technique we use on motorcycles, particularly when there is difficulty getting air out of the system. (Most blame this on lack of bench bleeding when installing a new master etc.) You simply pump the brakes to get best pressure, then secure the brake lever in the applied position. Leave it overnight. The air bubbles will simply float up to the reservoir and dissipate. Works wonderfully (as long as the reservoir is the highest point in the system). If you have the time, you might try this to finalize your installation, after at least gravity bleeding to your line/wheel cylinder. Pump the pedal up, secure it in place with a chunk of wood.

 

[yabanja]

There is a possibility you are going to have problems after you bleed the system as the ABS system may need to be bled separately with a factory scan tool. I had heard this but haven’t experienced it myself.

Allan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tymeryder]

Question is, if I don't care about ABS, for now, until I get to a Fuso dealer, will bleeding the "primary system ( normal circuit)" alone, give me solid brakes? I see that the procedure for the ABS circuit does call for using the diagnostic system to trigger the ABS.

 

[javajoe79]

I can't imagine that using the scan tool is necessary, maybe just speeds up the process.

 

[Spanna 53]

Haven't tried it on a truck but with a car or 4wd I just bleed them using a bottle and piece of 6 or8 mm clear plastic tube keep the resivor filled and slowly pump the pedal for many years now on every brake job coming through our workshop we have been changing the brake fluid with out using a scan tool I have a Hannatech which does lots of different functions but no ABS bleed but still reads all ABS faults Ford Falcons had a habit of blowing brake hoses no bleeding problems but often have to bleed all 4 wheels to get a good pedal just watch the bubbles in the plastic tube and keep the master cylinder full good luck Ross

 

[SkiFreak]

I just bleed them using a bottle and piece of 6 or8 mm clear plastic tube keep the resivor filled and slowly pump the pedal

That's how I do it too, and have done it that way for as long as I can remember.

 

[Tymeryder]

Successfully installed the new hose, and bled the primary circuit. Per the procedure in the service manual, I removed the ABS fuse, but my gut feel says it probably would not have been necessary. Just to be cautious, I left the ABS fuse out for the drive south. Am back in Fairbanks now.

Procedure I used was to run clear vinyl tube from bleed screw to bottle. Pumped the brakes with the bleed screw closed, then used a long-handle windshield squeegee to hold the pedal in the depressed position. Opened the bleed screw quarter turn until the fluid stopped flowing. Closed the bleed screw, and repeated those steps until no bubbles come out. Helps to run a small short loop in the clear tubing, up from the bleed screw before heading down to the bottle. So any bubbles will flow past the high point of that loop, and then when the bleed screw is closed, only rise back up to the top of the loop, and not all the way back to the bleed screw itself. If you just run the tubing straight down to the bottle, bubbles left in the line, will rise back up to the bleed screw, and it's difficult to know if it's a "new" bubble, or old one.

I'm pretty sure though, if one somehow managed to get air into the secondary ABS circuit, one then needs the Fuso diagnostic tool, as that is the only way to activate the solenoids that link the ABS circuit to the primary circuit. One technician said you could probably manually trigger the correct solenoid with hookup wire.