Rusty Pull Pal Resto- How?

[MuddyOval]

My trusty Pull Pal is in dire need of restoration. It's covered in rust from head to toe from living on the back side of my roof rack for 5 years. It's solid and works great, just fugly.

I considered galvanizing it, but it seems it would actually fit back together afterwards because of how the hinges are- the extra thickness of the galvy would make it too tight.
Sand blast and powder coat, zinc or is there some decent paint that will work? Maybe chrome it to match my 22's- nah, just kidding...
:wings:

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I'd blast and powdercoat, shouldn't be more than ~$80 or so? I don't have much experience with galvanizing, however as soon as you scratch and rub the galv layer off you'll be right back to surface rust?

 

[Brian McVickers]

Sounds like a lost cause.
Send it to me and I'll recycle it for you!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Sounds like a lost cause.
Send it to me and I'll recycle it for you!

A true team player

 

[biglos454]

personally id go with powder coat. its guna give you the same problems as anything else as far as added thickness for the hinges and other parts of the sort but it is a bit more durable. i powder coated my light bars and they've held up very well. just sand down the areas where the hinges go together so theyll fit back together

 

[Superu]

Two words.

Soda Blaster

My buddy's uncle runs an auto body shop and uses one. The results are terrific. Quick, relatively clean and less abrasive than sand or bead blasting.

After that, powder coating sounds like a good option. May want to consider a case for it to prevent a repeat performance of the rusting in a few years.

Pull-Pal sells a soft case, but you may be able to fit it into an inexpensive rifle case.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Well if you're going to keep it where it is, in the elements, then blast it and spray paint it. No sense in spending a lot if it's just going left out to rust again. Or....galvanize it and make it work!
Jason T.

 

[ntsqd]

IME Powder Coating is fairly tough until it gets scratched or nicked through, and then rust creeps under it and it flakes off.

I would use POR-15 with a top coat. Follow their prep and application instructions to the letter and you'll have a coating that is more durable than PC and easier to touch up.

 

[MuddyOval]

So you guys really think powdercoat is better than galvanizing? The company that does some weapons coatings for the military isn't far from here. I considered calling them and asking if they'll titanium nitride it. When I talked to them about some other parts, I think they said Zinc Chromate is a good way to go too- but that was 5 years ago and for a different type of part where warpage was a concern.

 

[Willman]

I would have it hot-dip Galv. for sure!

Take it apart....sent it out...

You can always sand down the area's where the hinges are then touch it up with some cold galv. spray....

I do a lot of Galv. work for the State of Utah.

Done!

:ylsmoke:

 

[durango_60]

I'd take Wilman's advice on anything metal.

 

[2drx4]

When I talked to them about some other parts, I think they said Zinc Chromate is a good way to go too- but that was 5 years ago and for a different type of part where warpage was a concern.

Zinc Chromate is normally a paint. I've seen it as a paste too. But I imagine it could be applied through other processes. Nasty stuff, works amazing. I'll probably die of something terrible that it would be at least partly responsible for.

It wouldn't be ideal for moving parts, at least not as a paint. Galvanizing sounds like a better bet to me. But I wouldn't expect it to last forever.