Sankey "Damaged Aircraft Workshop" Trailer Build

adelatoa

Adventurer
I a sucker for being a "purist" at times. I really I have a philosophy that if something that is vintage and is appreciated as being cool then I have total respect for the design. I am a sucker for design coming from an architectural background.

The RTT platform will be installed so that its removable with minimal footing/attachments to the trailer. There is a local "aircraft junkyard" called APEX here in SunValley. Very often they have aircraft structures made of aluminum, thus the reason I am going with aluminum. I am going to be using using aluminum as they sell the aluminum less that what the LB is worth out in the market for regular 6160 aluminum. All of their aluminum is aircraft quality of course:victory:.

Here is a little bit of my latest project for my Discovery II "Subwoofer" project. I purchase a early generation 1600 series Pelican Case as it had the screw on type of air valve not the latest one that has a diaphragm and I converted it into a Subwoofer. Used sound quality connectors that are used in the sound industry to be able to disconnect the Sub and and place on roof rack if I need the cargo space or to use the rear Jump seats. Or just simply a subwoofer is not necessary on a long trip...or is it :smiley_drive:??? The fridge will eventually end up in the trailer so I will re-gain my cargo and jump seats. Will proabably end up placing the CO2 tank in the trailer as well.

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adelatoa

Adventurer
I am starting from the top down and addressing the platform for the roof top tent. I plan on making a sort of a space frame by removing the box that is currently at top of the trailer and using the new space frame for storage. I can store chairs, table, and anything that is cylindrical in shape can go in the storage. A built in awning can perhaps be integrated to the space frame as well.

Construction of the tent's platform would be out of aluminum tubing welded with a riveted skin/envelope. In concept I would transfer the weigh of the platform/space frame with four columns like illustrated (in dashed lines vetically) in the sketch on the right side of the first picture. The structured would then be tensioned from each end of the structure with aircraft cables from the end inwards as illustrated in the sketch. I doubt that I would even need the tensioning cables if secured nicely to the trailer but when I take a look at the actual trailer then I will make that decision.

The height of the trailer from the floor to the top of the box is around 71". My concern is to make it top heavy with approximately 140#-180# on the top but it might not be an issue as the trailer weighs under 1000# by its self (based on specs on the web, but I think they may have weigh the trailer with equipment).

Kitchen galley will be on the driver's side and the tools and spare parts on the passenger's side. I am thinking of moving the shower to the rear of the tent as it might be best to keep the water from the access area of the tools/workshop area. Last thing I would want is a muddy pit next to the storage area.

More sketches to come soon but your comments are welcomed.
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R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Wow... and people thought my trailer would be top heavy.

The top of the body of my trailer is about... 68" IIRC, and the trailer is mounted directly to it. The trailer body itself is about 1500lbs or so. The fact that yours will "only be 1000lbs" won't actually help the situation, it'll make it worse because the weight of the tent will have more of an effect.

Be careful.
 

adelatoa

Adventurer
Rob. It was late last night and I should of explained my self better. I do plan on using aircraft aluminum. Its extremely light weight and it strong properties. The "structure" and tent would be more more than. My comment about 1000lbs of the trailer meant that I could be okay once I get all the equipment installed (fridge, water tank, co2 tank, batteries, sink, stove, tools, and spare parts). All that will add up pretty quickly so I think I will be in the 1800lbs. Im not engineer but 180lbs to 1800lbs is pretty light weight.

After searching the weights of RTTs 100 to 120lbs I think they are very heavy in comparison to your usual 10 to 15 lbs of camping tent you put on the ground. I have an idea for an inflatable tent cooking in my head still using that over head structure. :camping:

Rob and again. These are just concepts right now. Most of the weights and dimensions of the trailer I've gotten from online posts and web pgs. There is not a lot of information on these "Damaged Aircraft Workshops" around. BTW the original mission of these trailers was to carry Radio equipment for communication in the front lines. As the yrs passed these trailers would evolve to "aircraft workshops", "vehicle workshops", and "helicopter workshops".

In the worst of scenarios I would be happy if I can have a perfect kitchen, tool workshop area, and shower all in the trailer. Setting up a tent would not be too much trouble as the rest of the items can stay in the trailer and that would be easy to pack. In the past unpacking and packing everything was a very consuming task and exhausting but If I can get that to 80 to 90 percent orgainzed in the trailer it will leave more time for relaxing and enjoying my Baja Trips.

Rob. I appreciate your thoughts and will definitely take into account. Cool Disco you got there. BTW I could not tell from your pictures but are you running the SLS (airbags on your Disco)? Looks like you have a coil conversion from the stance.

On a different note. I applaud :clapsmile you for sticking up to the post by the EE member. I have often bought from them. I really like that they are conveniently located about 45 mins from me. I got my lift and fridge from them but had not ran across their post "plumbers snorkel" and if I had read that I would probably had change my mind about them. I mean they do save me on shipping freight charges but not sure if the attitude is proper to have on their forums of their online store. I think is disrespectful to many of us here that are newbies and on budgets. None the less I did have a few laughs here and there but most were disrespectful to their customers. Many of the pics posted had the EE sticker on their rigs which I thought was akward that they be putting someone down. OHh yeah and I do not sport a "rolex" on the trails its much to risky to have something like that in Baja Mexico or even here in the states.

I am really enjoying these forums as they are quite mature and much more creative than others. I understand everyone has a vision of their trailer, rig, unimog, and it reflects their needs and lifestyle. I have gotten tons of information from these forums and as I have just began my postings here. I think I have covered pretty much all the posts on the "trailer section" I've done some small peeking into the Unimogs but I am afraid to be bitten by that bug. That maybe something later in life when I grow up. :archaeolo
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
The key to making your trailer work is going to be the same as what I did. You need to try and keep the weight as low as possible. That means you need to keep reasonable size tires on it, and you have to keep the frame height low. Put all the heaviest stuff low. If you have a steel frame with an aluminum upper body, that will help a lot.

Sometimes the CG of my trailer has been compared to other trailer types, where the others have 24+" of ground clearnace, 35" tires, etc. And since mine is taller, the CG must be higher. But that's just not the case. My roof height is higher, but the frame is also lower. Also my water is stored about 18" above the ground, instead of 24+" as is often the case with jerry cans. Etc. I'm not saying my trailer is a spring chicken, but it's not as top heavy as some would think.

My truck does have rear coil springs, but it came that way from the factory.

On EE.com... yeah... I don't really know what more to say. Their own words and actions stand for themself.
 

highlandercj-7

Explorer
Nice trailer, gonna be a cool one. IDK why you'd design the RTT mounts like that though. Wouldn't it be easier to come straight up off a 4 corners with tube then build a ladder rack style mount over the top? Something like this:
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adelatoa

Adventurer
Yes It would be easier but I think it might ruin the "gull wing" look. I also do not want anything welded on the outside. Plus rear lights are in the way of getting to the frame and I can't put anything on the sides otherwise the doors won't open. Who knows once the trailer is here I might have to go that route.
 

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