Sb_Moto Overland camper build.
- Thread starter Sb_Moto
- Start date
Finished up the side rails today, and ground all the top welds flat so the floor fits level. Going tomorrow to grab some steel to build a cage for the water tank, and hopefully some Dom tubing for the fender. My goal is to have this in the paint booth next weekend. Still have to drill for wiring, tail lights, build fenders, and fit the tank.
Progress slowed down due to the girlfriend deciding she wanted to start refurbishing old furniture. Not a fan of sharing the garage, but I like seeing her working with her hands.
I got the jack mounted and some gussets on the frame.
I cut and bent some 3/16 for some taillight guards. Need some screws to bolt the lights on so don't worry the tape is temporary.
I got the jack mounted and some gussets on the frame.
I cut and bent some 3/16 for some taillight guards. Need some screws to bolt the lights on so don't worry the tape is temporary.
TravisWood
New member
Look on good man!! Keep on truckin
Been out of town, but made some progress. Braced the tongue with some 1/4" and got the rest of the Cross members in. Drilled most of the 1.5" holes to run wiring through crossmembers. Need to put a receiver in the rear, and weld some tubing in the 1.5" holes and its off to paint.
Did pick up a new toy!
Did pick up a new toy!
DonBeasley
Adventurer
Looking great! I am curious as to weight that the Tacoma will have to pull. Since I have one too yours will be a good model to "borrow" ideas from! LOL
Are you going to put a receiver in the back?
Are you going to put a receiver in the back?
Made some progress this weekend. Got the rear receiver welded in, holes in the frame plugged with 1.5" DOM. Water tank mounted. Then too it all apart to paint the underside of the frame. Got it back together and light wiring temporarily ran. Next is to to start building the walls.
I am banging my head trying to figure out a rear jack stabilizer solution, and where to mount side markers. I was originally going to use some 2"x 2" square tubing with holes in it for the rear stabilizer (same as the Moby), but it will interfere with my fender/ steps. Now I am thinking about welding a round bung onto each corner in the back and using removable tongue jacks to stabilize it. It would give it more versatility, and not take away tongue weight while in transit.
Took the 250r out for a ride. Put around 200 miles down Sunday. Even found some snow!
I am banging my head trying to figure out a rear jack stabilizer solution, and where to mount side markers. I was originally going to use some 2"x 2" square tubing with holes in it for the rear stabilizer (same as the Moby), but it will interfere with my fender/ steps. Now I am thinking about welding a round bung onto each corner in the back and using removable tongue jacks to stabilize it. It would give it more versatility, and not take away tongue weight while in transit.
Took the 250r out for a ride. Put around 200 miles down Sunday. Even found some snow!
fireball
Explorer
The fine folks at adventure Trailers swear that the rear stabilizer jacks are not necessary. They sell a trapezoidal type ratchet strap support system that Mario swears works just as well. Might be worth a call and chat with them as it's pretty inexpensive and a lot easier and lighter then other options.
That may be the most ingenious solution I have seen. I really like that idea! Simple, light, and effective.
I keep leaning towards the jacks simply because it would make changing a tire easier, but we will see what I do. I am going to keep that AT design in mind.
Hit a big setback/ snag/ ****** moment or whatever you want to call it. I went to do the final tq on the suspension and it crushed and bent. Not 100% sure what to do at this point, but I have a couple ideas. Really threw me for a loop given that I did everything timbren said and more. It really surprised me that the 1/4" plate bent as easy as it did. They don't make any recommendations about fra.e .material, but I will. If you use hollow tubing make it thick, or brace it somehow. I will probably cut some 1/2" I'd pipe and weld it in for bracing in the frame.
ExpeditionWarthog
Observer
What thickness did you use on the frame rail? That's going to be a bugger to fix and keep a good alignment, hopefully it works out for you!
Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
It is 2x3 x 1/8". I assumed that with there being 1/4" plate on both sides that it would distribute the load enough to hold, but I was wrong. If I had used 2x2 frame rails I would be willing to bet that it would have been ok, but since the Timbren setup is shorter than the 3" tall rail it allowed it to bend in. The inner side of the frame is still straight so my plan is to bore out the inside hole to 3/4" and insert a steel sleeve with 1/2" ID. In theory it will push the outside of the frame back out when I tighten it up since the inside is the braced 1/4" plate that I made which is much stronger than the frame or Timbrens setup. In theory this should all work out just fine, but time will tell.