Setting a Disco I up for expedition travel

[TeriAnn]

I have been asked to put together a web page about choosing a Land Rover as a platform for extended expedition style travel. This is for the Expo site and. I will freely admit to a lack of hands on experience with the newer coiler models. So I am asking your advice. Replies should be general enough to cover all the Disco I markets and not just a single country market.

1. What are the primary problem areas to look for when looking to purchase a used Disco I?

2. What basic mods would be helpful for long term reliability for long range expedition type travel? Not building a gonzo rock crawler, just a reliable cross country off road traveler. Please no responses suggesting switching to parts from another marque.

It is my current understanding that extracts or reworded thoughts from your replies will likely show up on at least one if not two web sites.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[TexasTJ]

An after Market Temp Gauge is a Must! It has already saved my Bacon Twice since I put it in July. Rust on the seam where the C pillar meets the wheel arch can be a problem. Also look under the B pillar and at the edge of the alpine windows. Don't get the sunroofs if you can, but it seams that most Discovery's have them. I just sealed mine shut with silicon and then put a XD style Roof Rack on it form the dreaded Rover Racks. Other than that they don't need much if you do want it. BUT the TEMP GAUGE is a must! Get a 99! j/k

 

[Antichrist]

What's your timeline for publication? Though it being a website I guess it will be trivial to add info as you proceed.
I'll post as I think of things.

My assumptions:
Vehicle is for extended travel, likely to multiple countries, i.e., not for a DD that's used for weekend camping trips.
Not generally for hardcore off-roading (no Tellico trips), but able to cope with getting caught on unimproved roads/tracks during rainy season.
Ability to ford relatively deep streams without being overly concerned.

Places to check on a Disco are the same as a Series, with the addition of the rear wheel arches inside under the carpet/padding. The floor pan in the boot and along the threshold at the boot door. Also along the threshold at the front and rear doors.
Mechanicals aren't as critical as my assumption is that anyone prepping an expedition vehicle will be going through its mechanicals.
No sunroofs.

Remove as many ECU's as possible, convert windows to manual.
For the remainder make sure a complete loss of electrics won't disable the vehicle.

For serious long range travel, a non-EGR 300Tdi mated to a K or L series R380 with a gearbox oil cooler.
Racor fuel filter. If cold weather travel is expected then maybe a fuel warmer and diesel or propane fired engine preheater.
Mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauge (connected at turbo oil feed) such as a Smiths dual gauge.
Air Filter Restriction Gauge so the filter isn't changed more than it really needs to be.
EGT gauge.
Snorkel with centrifugal precleaner.

Hydraulic winch powered by pump mounted to transfer box.

For the type of setup I think you're wanting to write about I feel the stock drivetrain is otherwise is good enough, though a person would probably want to upgrade to 1310 u-joint propshafts.
If lockers are fitted then upgraded half-shafts.
Diff gearing is really dependent on the choice of tires, load carried and transfer box ratio.

Conversion to D90 front brakes along with removal of ABS. It's possible to pull the ABS fuses if the system fails during a trip, but it can fail without warning leaving a person without brakes. If there was serious injury or death as a result, particularly in another country, it could end your trip.

For tires probably a load range E. The person should check the areas they plan to travel and choose a tire that's available there, or at least has a close approximation. One spare mounted on a wheel, another unmounted, so save weight.

Admit it TeriAnn, this request is because you're moving to the coiler dark side. :sombrero:

edited to add assumptions

 

[TeriAnn]

Admit it TeriAnn, this request is because you're moving to the coiler dark side.

The assumptions about my request are right on except for the last. And I would like to get the rough draft finished before the end of the year. I wasn't given a completion date though.

No I'm not ready to go over to the dark side as long as nothing I can't fix happens to my Dormobile. If a disaster were to occur I would start out with a D130 option that had a pickup cab and no body behind the cab. Then I would proceed to convert it into a motor caravan.

Or just maybe the remains of my Dormie and a rolling D130 frame to rebuild the 1960 Land Rover.

 

[Wander]

The build thread and article that Scott Brady did on his DI build touched on a good level of modifications for this type of use.

Of the V8's I think my 3.9 is the most field serviceable as it still has a dizzy but a 300Tdi is a way better choice world wide.

Rust along the sides of the cargo bed is an issue due to the floor insulation pad not being absorbent or breathable. Manual seats is a plus and lack of sunroofs as well. That will be easier to find in ROW markets as our dealers seem to have an obsession with them here in the USA. Basing a build such as you mentioned on the Camel Trophy Disco's would be a fine example.

 

[Red90]

I would suggest upgraded diffs, halfshafts and CVs for the sake of reliability. Otherwise carry a full set and be prepared to change in the field.

You would need to upgrade springs and shocks for the assumed extra load.

Front and rear bumpers with proper recovery points are a must.

Larger or secondary fuel tank.

Diff guards.

As you state you are not limiting to North America, you need to include some information about both versions of the Disco 1. Only the second version went to the US.

 

[David Harris]

TeriAnn, get yourself a coiler. Their inexpensive and you'd be surprised how much your considerable experience with Series trucks would carry over on a D1 or earlier truck. I for one would love to hear your thoughts on the platform!

David

 

[SMD]

Aux battery systems seem to be popular with long-range trips, and remote trips in particular. I think this can be problematic on the D1. I'll work on the assumption that RHD Discos have a similar layout under the bonnet, but my reference is LHD NAS V8. Hopefully others with more knowledge on this issue specifically will chime in.

There's room for a second battery at the front left (stock is front right) with removal of the jack. Not certain, but I think the PS pump may need to be moved slightly. The airbox horn may also need to be removed; I have a Mantec RAI and the horn is removed in that installation. With the RAI flex tube attached to the front of the airbox there isn't room for a battery, at least not a Group 34 battery. I'm guessing the Safari Snorkel has a similar problem - it would have to without a bit of surgery under there. Some might suggest running without a RAI but for extensive unimproved, dusty travel I think it makes a difference to the life of the air filter and hence more important downstream items.

So without routing an aux battery back into the passenger compartment, a single battery may be the only *easy* option and thus battery choice should be done carefully. Scott's D1 has an interesting solution using solar to top off the battery but I have my concerns about how well this would work for a trip in the fall/winter to places outside desert regions of the world. Would like to hear more info of how this is working out.

I've been mulling an idea in my head for a possible semi-solution but haven't had time to try it out. Maybe some time next year. It's still half-baked at this point.

~ Stephen/Bender

 

[Wander]

TeriAnn, get yourself a coiler. Their inexpensive and you'd be surprised how much your considerable experience with Series trucks would carry over on a D1 or earlier truck. I for one would love to hear your thoughts on the platform!

David

I'm just guessing here but as her "newest" car is on the eve of 50 I think a coiler might induce a severe case of whiplash due to the level of mostly unnecessary complexity found in a "modern" vehicle like a DI. With a combo of a Series and a TR3A-who needs anything else? Now putting a coil spring suspension with maybe disco axles under the dormobile might make it even more capable.

 

[Antichrist]

On a LHD D1 if a snorkel is fitted and the air box modified to a side intake then to fit a second battery all you need to do is then remove the jack, remove the stock air horn and plug the hole, relocate the PS reservoir a couple of inches, install a battery tray and Bob's your uncle.

For reliability's sake replacing the diff pans with pipe caps would be better than diff guards. Once installed you wouldn't have to think about them again, or be checking to make sure they were in place.

If you don't convert to diesel and dump all the ECU's, then on '96 and newer bypass the "alarm spider". Failure of the unit, which isn't uncommon, will immobilize the vehicle.
Instructions here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86
Printable pdf version here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/32702997/Alarm-Spider-Fix

 

[TeriAnn]

I'm just guessing here but as her "newest" car is on the eve of 50 I think a coiler might induce a severe case of whiplash due to the level of mostly unnecessary complexity found in a "modern" vehicle like a DI. With a combo of a Series and a TR3A-who needs anything else? Now putting a coil spring suspension with maybe disco axles under the dormobile might make it even more capable.

Even though I've spent all my working life as a silicon valley computer techno nerd, I pick and choose the technologies that I adapt in my personal life and just don't grab on to everything that comes along. For instance I don't own a watch nor a cell phone. But I have adapted blueray, my house has wifi and my computer a 2.66 GHz Intel Core i7 processor. But I've a second generation ipod and haven't yet found a convincing reason for a newer one.

I enjoy driving as a participant activity on a seat of your pants level that 50 year old British cars provide. To me new cars are like sitting in a quiet living room easy chair watching the world go by on TV.

But If I were to spring for a coiler, I would prefer it to be a DB7. I could go for a technology upgrade if the label read "Aston Martin". But if I were to get a third car that I could actually afford, most likely it would be a late 50's or early 60's Morris Traveller.

Getting back to the subject, I really appreciate the information that you guys are providing. It should help other folks who are thinking about purchasing a Rover vehicle as a base platform for long distance vehicle travel.

THANKS!!​

 

[Antichrist]

As you state you are not limiting to North America, you need to include some information about both versions of the Disco 1. Only the second version went to the US.

What are you implying is the "first version"? 200Tdi, 3.5L V8 and Mpi engines?

 

[TeriAnn]

What are you implying is the "first version"? 200Tdi, 3.5L V8 and Mpi engines?

I had thought he meant that the first version was the two door.

I give up, what is an Mpi engine?

 

[Antichrist]

I had thought he meant that the first version was the two door.

I give up, what is an Mpi engine?

It was a 2L petrol, mostly targeted to fleet owners who would pay a lower tax because it was 2L. But it was underpowered and didn't last long.
http://www.landroverbase.com/vehicle/by-id/1709088304/

 

[Red90]

What are you implying is the "first version"? 200Tdi, 3.5L V8 and Mpi engines?

Yes, 1989 to 1993 was a different version than 1994 to 1998.