Should I buy a Range Rover?

[JeepN95YJ]

If I buy this, it will be to replace my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 V10 4x4.

Details:

1996 Range Rover 4.6HSE
156000 miles
Bad Tcase ECU
Soft motor mounts
Sunroof doesn't open

Recent service. Blend motor replacement
• Oil and filter change using German Pentosin fully-synthetic 5W-40 oil
• Transmission fluid and filter changed using Italian Agip Dexron III ATF
• Air filter changed
• Climate control pollen filters changed
• New ignition leads and spark plugs (Bosch)
• New serpentine belt
• New ABS accumulator and brake fluid change
• New climate control blend motors and heater matrix o-rings
• Coolant flushed using Zerex hybrid-type antifreeze
• Oil changed in front and rear differentials using German Lubro Moly synthetic gear oil
• Fuel filter changed
• Wiper blades replaced

Seems like a nice vehicle. Don't know if I should be worried about the mileage. I'd like to offroad it a little. This would be a daily driver for me. About 20k miles per year.

 

[sven]

I think the P38 is a beautiful truck. However, I think it would make a bad 1st land rover (I assuming this would be your 1st LR?). I wouldnt own one unless I had easy access to a testbook

 

[Michael Slade]

:iagree:

 

[JeepN95YJ]

It absolutely WOULD be my first Rover.

Test Book? Is that like a factory repair manual? LOL. If so, I think I see where you are coming from.

Right now I own a built Jeep YJ Wrangler, a mildly lifted WJ Grand Cherokee and my Dodge truck. I've always liked Rovers and want a good reason to buy one. I like the DIIs as well. Is the HSE bigger or smaller than the DII?

Does $5000 sound like a good or bad price for the 1996?

 

[TeriAnn]

I understand that they are very comfortable rides and they do look quite stylish.

But understand that they do have a reputation for poor fuel mileage, requiring lots of maintenance, expensive parts and a near free falling resale value. I guess it all depends upon your perceived needs from the vehicle and how close you are to a good RR mechanic.

Someone once told me that their power steering box is quite good and will easily adapt to a Series Land Rover.

 

[Mercedesrover]

I didn't want to be the first to bash this truck. I'm often accused of being overly harsh on coil-sprung Land Rovers.

1) $5000 is waaayyyyy too much for a 156k P38
2) Your V10 probably gets better gas mileage
3) If you're not very handy with electronics you'll be at the dealer very often
4) The sunroof doesn't work because these trucks have a "body computer" I think they cost $1000 or something crazy like that. Don't ever plan to get the sunroof working again.
5) It's a 4.6 so it'll probably slip the liners about three days after you buy it. Figure $4000 for a new motor.

If you buy this truck as your first Land Rover, bechya it'll be your last.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Maybe the sunroof doens't work because the motor or switches are shot and it's a simple fix?

If the body computer was toast, I'd think nothing would work. It probably wouldn't start. Since the problem is just one of the many systems going through the BCU, I'd think it's just an actuator or input problem?

4.6 slipping liners, please expand on your thoughts? Is the 4.6 more prone to slipping liners than the 4.0?

I've got a 4.6, no problems (yet, knock on wood) and my understanding is that unless it overheats, it should be fine. If that's not the case, I'd love to know.

 

[Michael Slade]

Do your HOMEWORK.

 

[Keaster]

Heed the advice of your peers

I would say that of all the Rovers out there that one might want to use as a trail rig this (the P38) would be at the bottom of the list. Parts are not only expensive (as are all rovers) but there is less availible for that platform than there is for the D1 or the D2 Not to mention the hastle of the air ride suspension. It tends to go pop on the trail. Then you end up swapping to springs and well there's more money and well you see how it just keeps compounding. Also you mentioned a bad Tcase. Which brings me to a full time four wheel drive... figure on about 13 mpg if it stays bone stock less with gears tires bumpers or whatever else you end up doing on it. With regards to a D2 I think that would make you a lot happier in the long run but as with any used rover I would suggest, 1 you get it from a reputable dealer, and 2 you get an extended warrenty. Both tend to be worth the cost in the long run. Just my thoughts on the subject! -Kyle

 

[JeepN95YJ]

Do your HOMEWORK.

Thanks All for the replies. I checked out the site and there was a HUGE page with links to common problems/fixes. Seemed excessive for what I want and even more work than I think "normal".

I used to own a custom Jeep shop and am not afraid of a wrench (or a torch) As a rule vehicles with "character" attract me more than most but I don't think I need that much "personality" in my first Rover.

The owner of the Rover said the sunroof motor runs but the roof doesn't move back. I suspected a tracking problem. Here is the link to the craigslist ad if someone else decides this is the right Rover for them:

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/car/707450940.html

 

[Z O O R O P A]

maybe you fellas can advise me then.

I want to buy this 2004 HSE7 local 1 owner, 50K in A to A- condition. All serviced at my local dealer who I like well enough. She wants $17.500 but these are selling on ebay and autotrader for like $11,500 with 65K miles and it isn't even July

I like her a lot and love the truck but I only see values going straight down this year - what would be a reasonable offer or price? I sold my 2004 HSE with 50K on it last April or so and it took forever to sell for $17,500 in better condition than this one. I couldn't believe how picky people were about the most trivial little things lol

 

[Mercedesrover]

Parts are not only expensive....

I've got an '02 P38 in the shop right now.
Right front air shock: $395.00
Right front radius arm: $1007.00

Don't hit a curb.

As far as I know, 4.0, 4.2 and 4.6 all slip sleeves. Not sure which one is more prone but all have been known to do it. Then again, I had a lady in town blow a water pump in her truck, leak all the fluid out and still drove it until the engine heat-seized. Cooled it down, put a pump in it and she drove it another three years. Finally put a motor in the truck at 150k. At 180k she junked it.

 

[revor]

Not taking Jim's comments about coilers personally :violent-smiley-031:

I think a D1 is a great place to start with LR ownership, cheap, relatively simple and mine have been pretty darn reliable, and they have only one computer. (well real computer)

 

[Mercedesrover]

Not taking Jim's comments about coilers personally :violent-smiley-031:

I think a D1 is a great place to start with LR ownership, cheap, relatively simple and mine have been pretty darn reliable, and they have only one computer. (well real computer)

I know, I know....I'm too hard on those things.
Hey, I loved my RRC...until I didn't.

And I agree, a D1 is a good platform to start with. Cheap to buy and relatively reliable.

Did you hear that? I said a coiler was reliable!! (kinda)

 

[FourByLand]

I say get it.

and build it.