Show me your AC/DC disto panels

[Geo.Lander]

Hi guys, I am trying to figure out my paneling, I would like to have breakers and not fuses for AC and DC and make an integrated distribution panel for both, I am playing around with the bluesea custom panel designer and was wondering if there is a modular or easier and more economic way to go about this?

This is what i have after about 5 mins of playing:

 

[Iain_U1250]

I used these Blue Sea sytems circuit breaker panels for the 12V circuits, much cheaper than the other ones. The 240V inverter has it's own safety switch and on/off switch on the inverter, as that minimises the length of unprotected wiring. The major feed to the main switch panel from the batteries has a circuit breaker near the batteries( as the idea is to protect the wiring from short circuits, no point having the circuit breaker on the end of the wire, it needs to be as close to the source as possible.

I will be re-building this panel soon, as I''ve found we don't really use the radio, so will just connect the speakers to the front cab radio. I'll also fit some more USB plugs, as one is not enough for all the stuff we charge.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

We went with Blue Seas also, they make some nice panels. We were used to the older style breakers so just stuck with them. From our previous sailing life it is highly recommended to separate the AC panels from the DC (actually it is required to pass survey, our water heater is 12v). I also wanted a master battery switch to shut all DC off to the panel, once again standard boat stuff. These are stock off the shelf panels, we did though have to order some custom labels direct from Blue Seas. A bit of advice, install more breakers than you think you would ever need. If you plan on keeping your truck a while inevitably more electrics will be added over time (once again learned from 20+ years on a sailboat). And no, we do not have 3 empty breakers, just need to order 2 more labels, we are down to 1 empty...

For our music I installed a bluetooth only amp, we now only listen to Spotify so it has worked out great.

 

[Geo.Lander]

no point having the circuit breaker on the end of the wire, it needs to be as close to the source as possible.

Yea, I will have a main battery switch before the Victron Lynx distribution bus and shunt, the shunt will have the main battery fuse but I wanted a step down fuse as a main breaker for the 24V DC to protect the loads. The diagram I made was just a quick effort, I still need to map out the components.

I'll also fit some more USB plugs, as one is not enough for all the stuff we charge.

Nice, what are you planning to use? I still cannot find decent looking USB and USB-C outlets anywhere...

 

[Geo.Lander]

From our previous sailing life it is highly recommended to separate the AC panels from the DC (actually it is required to pass survey, our water heater is 12v)

I think technically they are separate at the cable houses. Each column on their design page is stated to be isolated and needs/should have its own main breaker.

I also wanted a master battery switch to shut all DC off to the panel, once again standard boat stuff

I am struggling a little with the battery/system placement, we will have almost 15kwh worth of batteries and my plan to place them under the u-shaped seats with all the systems, charge controllers and the inverter is very unrealistic. I am planning to use the Victron Lynx power in, 1000a shunt and distribution system which takes care of the main battery fuse, The Lynx distributor is also fused for the main power from/to MPPT, Inverter, etc. My plan was to have a main shutoff switch before the Lyxn power in.

A bit of advice, install more breakers than you think you would ever need. If you plan on keeping your truck a while inevitably more electrics will be added over time (once again learned from 20+ years on a sailboat). And no, we do not have 3 empty breakers, just need to order 2 more labels, we are down to 1 empty...

Noted! I almost added 3 rows just thinking ill dont have enough systems to fill half of them, turns out i need to really sit down and map out the systems I am planning now and in the future (like we will probably add a small washing machine an Aircon but not right away).

 

[Geo.Lander]

Everyone seems to be loving the BlueSea panels then

 

[Iain_U1250]

I have three remote battery switches - so I can isolate all three battery banks from the dash. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/13/60/Remote_Battery_Switches/ML-Remote_Battery_Switches On the Mk2 version of the control panel, I will mirror the switches on the dash so I can shut down the batteries from the control panel as well.

Just curious about the step down fuse, is that so it will trip if you have too much load through the switch panel? For example, if all the switches were close to maximum load but not tripping? My total of all the switches on both panels is more than the circuit breaker on the supply line. So far it has not been a problem. I also have a fuse box at the end of each cable from the switch panel, to protect the wiring and the device, because of the routing of the cables, I have three fuse boxes in the camper, and five in the truck cab.

 

[Geo.Lander]

I have three remote battery switches - so I can isolate all three battery banks from the dash. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/13/60/Remote_Battery_Switches/ML-Remote_Battery_Switches On the Mk2 version of the control panel, I will mirror the switches on the dash so I can shut down the batteries from the control panel as well.

Nice, I have been looking at a few of these relay style main switches too, I think for my install these might be the ticket! I could also add a relay trigger to one of the relays in the Victron GX system i suppose, so I can isolate remotely too...

Just curious about the step down fuse, is that so it will trip if you have too much load through the switch panel? For example, if all the switches were close to maximum load but not tripping? My total of all the switches on both panels is more than the circuit breaker on the supply line. So far it has not been a problem. I also have a fuse box at the end of each cable from the switch panel, to protect the wiring and the device, because of the routing of the cables, I have three fuse boxes in the camper, and five in the truck cab.

Yea, that is kindof my thinking, it just acts as breaker style fuse for the main busbar on the distribution circuit. So It needs to be sized for the combined loads. This will protect appliances and the wiring egress from the panel but also means you can isolate only AC/DC at one time.. I have to be a bit careful with my AC distribution and DC charging because of the size of the MPPT & Inverter charger in the system (up to 120A DCDC charging at 24V). If I have a faulty appliance the potential current draw the BMS will provide will be massive. I am now sizing the Multiplus-II C24/5000/120-50 which is a bit scary, I was originally going to go for one 8S2P battery bank but might now make 2*8S banks for some redundancy on the BMS side of things..

Sorry for the drift, but yea, I want a main breaker per panel column that can quickly cut off excessive loads.

 

[Alloy]

, the shunt will have the main battery fuse

?.....shunt is on the neg side.

Nice, what are you planning to use? I still cannot find decent looking USB and USB-C outlets anywhere...

Better to go with 12/24v sockets so the USBs can be replaced when they stop working

Everyone seems to be loving the BlueSea panels then

BSS is good stuff but horribly expensive. I'm helping a buddy build his system. We are using BSS components were needed an staying away from the assembled panels as much as possible.

BSS switches and breakers are made by Carling Technologies.

Carling Technologies

Carling Technologies is a switch manufacturer and circuit breaker manufacturer with registered manufacturing facilities and technical sales offices worldwide.

www.carlingtech.com

Fuses/breakers protect the wire not the device(s).

This is my current system.

 

[Geo.Lander]

Nice setup Alloy!

?.....shunt is on the neg side.

The Lynx shunt has a fused positive

Better to go with 12/24v sockets so the USBs can be replaced when they stop working

right, good idea, by 12/24v sockets what do you mean exactly?

BSS is good stuff but horribly expensive. I'm helping a buddy build his system. We are using BSS components were needed an staying away from the assembled panels as much as possible.

BSS switches and breakers are made by Carling Technologies.

Great, gonna check them out, I think I will go down the custom panel route anyway. Thanks for the link!

Fuses/breakers protect the wire not the device(s).

Well, i was just thinking switchgear protects the electrical circuit which i suppose includes the device circuits, power system and all auxiliaries not just "wires". So they will protect chained devices if one device is faulty or there is for some reason a large underprotected current draw. I am still new to these off-grid type setups thou, I am have read to Victron bible a few times and following the advice from Will Prowse and a couple more of the "off grid" battery and solar celebs. From what I see no 2 setups are quite the same, which was a bit of a shock for me, pun indented

 

[Alloy]

Nice setup Alloy!



The Lynx shunt has a fused positive

View attachment 671045



right, good idea, by 12/24v sockets what do you mean exactly?



Great, gonna check them out, I think I will go down the custom panel route anyway. Thanks for the link!



Well, i was just thinking switchgear protects the electrical circuit which i suppose includes the device circuits, power system and all auxiliaries not just "wires". So they will protect chained devices if one device is faulty or there is for some reason a large underprotected current draw. I am still new to these off-grid type setups thou, I am have read to Victron bible a few times and following the advice from Will Prowse and a couple more of the "off grid" battery and solar celebs. From what I see no 2 setups are quite the same, which was a bit of a shock for me, pun indented

Power plug

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/391041281277-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

Chained devices such as lighting there could be 4 x 0.25 amp lights on a circuit with 16ga wire and a 5 Amp fuse/breaker.

Devices with an in rush load such as motors and inverters will need a fuse/breaker that is (125%) larger than the rated load or there will be nuisance trips. The wire (combined length of pos &neg) is then sized to the fuse/breaker.

 

[WanderingBison]

[QUOTE="
Nice, what are you planning to use? I still cannot find decent looking USB and USB-C outlets anywhere...[/QUOTE]

I’ve been using these - https://www.coolgear.com/product/usb-power-delivery-60w-high-power-industrial-adapter-charger-ccg3pa

I have not had any compatibility issues - MacBook, iPad, Sonos speaker, battery packs, etc.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Iain_U1250]

I recently bought these

12V USB Aluminum Car Charger [2-Pack], Qidoe Quick Charge 3.0/4.2A Triple USB Outlet 12V Socket with Touch Power Switch, Waterproof Car Adapter for Car Boat Marine Bus Truck Golf Cart RV Motorcycle: Automobile Chargers: Amazon.com.au

12V USB Aluminum Car Charger [2-Pack], Qidoe Quick Charge 3.0/4.2A Triple USB Outlet 12V Socket with Touch Power Switch, Waterproof Car Adapter for Car Boat Marine Bus Truck Golf Cart RV Motorcycle: Automobile Chargers: Amazon.com.au

www.amazon.com.au

They were half price, so I bought two double packs of them. Might just give me enough USB charging ports I think

 

[Geo.Lander]

I’ve been using these - https://www.coolgear.com/product/usb-power-delivery-60w-high-power-industrial-adapter-charger-ccg3pa

I have not had any compatibility issues - MacBook, iPad, Sonos speaker, battery packs, etc.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice! these are what I have been looking for, high power usb-c PD chargers for the laptops, since the truck will be my homeoffice for a lot of the year i want to fit a couple of these in the seating area.

I will also add a few of the USB chargers of the type @Iain_U1250 linked to around the bed area (thanks!), in addition I was thinking os using the outlets below for the AC, one can never have too many USB outlets!

 

[Alloy]

Somebody needs electrical refresher course 101.
A device in unison with conductors carries or controls a load.
Aside from control current. (example relay coils) Devices are not a load.

Where should I look for more info? Thanks