Slow JK Weekend Warrior Build...

JPK

Explorer
The next step in my build will be a skid plate for the oil pan

Not sure which one yet but it will either be the aluminum River Raider, Rancho, or Benchmark designs.

After that I am trying to decide wether I want to:

1. Install small cowel snorkel (from River Raider or Rugged Ridge)

2. Install small 2" lift waiting for the AEV 2" spring lift or possibly using the AEV 2" coil spacer lift

3. Superchips Flashpaq.

Any input on which should come first of these three?

Also I have been looking at upgrading from the stock Rubi 255/75/17 to the KM2 255/ 80/17. I have an auto Rubicon with the 4.10's and really don't want to regear. Any input on wether this would be needed with the slightly taller tires? What if I am towing say an offroad teardrop trailer?

Thanks

If it were me modifying my Jeep, I would go first with a lift, since the lift will reduce the chances of striking something underneath which could cause heartburn. But I would wait to see what AEV comes out with too, so maybe then skid first.

Since skid first then suspension second. And I would definitely wait to see if I went AEV suspension, and, if so, how well the ProCal worked on changing tranny shift points and reducing throttle lag to awaken the fun-to-drive factor.

Next priority would be the tires, but I wouldn't replace them until the oem tires were done for milage wise, after employing a five tire rotation sequence. The oem Rubicon BFG MT T/A KM's are very good tires, imo (I have a set of the same tire in 255/85-16 on my LJ, and love them, my wife still has them on her JKU as well.) Taller tires will also reduce the need for a snorkle and the frequency of rock and debri strikes under the Jeep. The KM2's enjoy a fine reputation. The tire size you selected is an E range tire, which I would try to avoid. The stiff sidewall will detract from the JKU's nice ride enough for me to steer clear. I would look at the LT285/70R17/D, which as noted is a D range tire. Essentially the same height, but 1.5" wider, which would mean Spider Trax hub centric spacers to me. I would also consider going with the A/T's which I reluctantly did on my JKU becaue I put so many more road miles on the Jeep than off road miles. As it turns out, I have been more than a little suprised by the tires' capabilities and am very pleased with their performance, so far. Perhaps the GY Duratracs in 285/70/17 as well. Going to a 33" tire won't affect performance much at all and would be fine with the 4.10's.

Next up would be the low profile RROR snorkle. I would have liked to get that snorkle, but it came out after I installed an AEV snorkle - and it won't fit with the Hemi in any event, though RROR may figure out a way to make it fit in the future. If you go with a snorkle for any other reason than to bring down intake air temps, you will also want to extend you transmission, transfer case and front and rear differential breather tubes, which I still need to do. Cheap, but supposedly a bit of a pita.

The last thing on your list I would consider would be the Superchip. It may or may not add to real performance gains, or better fun factor but it won't add any utility to your Jeep for exploring, off roading, etc.

My 2 cents worth!

JPK
 

lax71vcu

Adventurer
Thanks JPK

Really appreciate the feedback and guidance.

I think I will do in that order. Skid, Lift, Tires, Snorkel.

I have already raised all my Breather's (four in an Auto) so that is done. Yes it was a pita....

Thanks again.
 

JPK

Explorer
Really appreciate the feedback and guidance.

I think I will do in that order. Skid, Lift, Tires, Snorkel.

I have already raised all my Breather's (four in an Auto) so that is done. Yes it was a pita....

Thanks again.

It has occurred to me that I was a friggin' idiot not extending the tubes myself before going up to RROR or having the RROR guys extend the tubes while they were under my Jeep removing oem skids, fitting their skids and BEFORE they bolted them together!

JPK
 

JPK

Explorer
GOOD NEWS!!!

I think I found the solution regarding a skid plate for the oil pan that bolts on, is compatible with factory skids and cross members, is made of aluminum and doesn't cost an arm and a leg!

Ran acrosss a thread on oil pan skids on JKOwners.com and one alternative brought up seems perfect. Here is a link!: http://ok4wd.com/asfir-4x4-oil-pan-skid-plate-for-jeep-jk.html

Hope this works out for you.

JPK
 

JPK

Explorer
I would wait until you select your suspension. Some suspensions may move the steering stabilizer or may change geometry enough that the new location interferes.

JPK
 

lax71vcu

Adventurer
Thanks Again!!!!

JPK you are a great help. A Scholar and a Gentleman as they would say.:sombrero:

Thanks again man keeping me from spending my hard earned greenbacks on things I may be getting later.

Oh and the ASFIR skid is NICE. Directions were a bit lacking but Sierra Expeditions was a great help with that. Good product....GREAT vendor.

Thanks again
 

JPK

Explorer
Scholar yes, at least in the past. I spent too many years in school and then after earning my BS even more in night school. Last degree earned with a pregnant wife and at age 34, a mere month before turning 35. Gentleman? There would be those who dispute that!

So you got the oil pans skid installed? If so, feeling good about the added protection?
 

lax71vcu

Adventurer
Added Protection is VERY NICE. No worries about spilling the life blood all over the trail:victory:

I really am just waiting to hear more about the AEV 2" coil spring lift (non spacer)

I really like the idea of the progressive springs. Until that comes out I am saving $ and thinking about getting the New River raider expo snorkel and AEV when and if it comes out. After those two add-ons I will be adding the tires... still researching which ones but I have plenty of time (Stock Rubi tires only have 18000 miles on them)

Oh and I need to add an external antenna for my Midland 75-822 All in Mic CB. I thought I could get by with just the Midland and well.....I was wrong. so now I have to add the antenna.... Oh well worth a shot.


Thanks again.
 

JPK

Explorer
Are you talking about the through the cowl RROR snorkel? I love the look and would have one but they don't work in the Hemi because of a lack of space. I have an AEV snorkel instead, with the bowl, kinda loud when you hit the gas.

I bought a handheld CB in Moab for EJS thinking it would do just fine, but like you I soon found that it really needs an external antenna. One of these days I'll get around to mounting an antenna to the post on the AEV tire carrier.

Going camping with just my wife this weekend, one kid is with a friend in Hilton Head and the other is heading to Annapolis with a cousin. Since I love fly fishing we'll probably head to Savage River State Forrest or the adjacent Big Run State Park in Western MD.

Any 4th plans?

JPK
 

lax71vcu

Adventurer
Well I will be spending the 4th south of richmond with family. My daughter turns one on the 5th so we will spend this weekend with family that can't come to her birthday party next weekend.

I also am starting a new job on the 6th so getting ready for that.

As for Fly Fishing. western Maryland is a blast. Have you ever been to Dolly Sods campground? It is in West Va/ Western Va. It is the highest campground in the mid-atlantic and is absolutely beautiful. Some good Trout fishing to be had in the area too. I am planning on a late August/ Early Sept camping trip. Probably head up to Blue Ridge Mountains and run the Big Levels, and/or Shoe Creek. Do some camping and fishing.

Fly fishing question for ya... I run an 6wt 9 foot St Croix Rod. A bit heavy for trout I know but I also use it for small mouth and large mouth on the James in Richmond. I use a floating line and I have not changed it in quite some time. Any idea on how long a floating fly line will last? When should I change it? I change my tippet and leader frequently. I also have not changed my line backing.....EVER. You think that needs to be done?

I know I hijacked my own thread... Oppssss

Back on track. Yes I was talking about the River Raider Cowel Snorkel. I love it too. It is pretty spendy and I am a bit nervous about cutting into the cowel. What I would give to have a shop I trusted near by to do that one for me. Not to mention at a reasonable cost. I may be hitting up the local jeep club for a hand on that one.
 

JPK

Explorer
IMO, a floating line lasts as long as the outer coating remains intact. Once it starts to crack or degrade its time to start looking for a replacement, though it will still fish OK for a while longer. But you begin to loose smothness and distance when casting, and it takes progressively more effort, which can impair timing and open up your loops. The higher the line weight the more pronounced the problem once it starts to go.

If a line gets pinched and looses its coating at a spot within the length of the typical amount of line you work that spot with the core exposed will act as a hinge, and then the line is done for sure.

A dirty line also takes more effort and opens up loops, and all lines get dirty, even when in likenew condition. And cleaning a line extends its life.

The easiest way to clean them is in the kitchen sink, or a laundry sink if your wife is around! Fill the sink about 1/2 full of luke warm water with a mild dish soap in it. Strip line in workable lengths from the reel and wash the lengths in succession, loosely coiling the washed line on a towel on the counter next to the sink or on the floor. When you've cleaned all of the line that's dirty, (pick the towel up and put it on the counter adjacent to the sink if it was on the floor) pick up the coiled line and flip the whole coil over to expose the end again and to put the running line on the bottom. Drain the soapy water and then fill the sink with clean water and then rinse the line in handlable lengths coiling it on a fresh towel on the floor. You may want to drain and refill the sink part way through rinsing the line. When all is rinsed take a couple of paper towels and, as you reel in the line, dry the line in the paper towels. It helps to have another set of hands drying the line as you reeel it in.

You will be amazed at how smooth a freshly cleaned line casts, especially if its been dirty awhile. When you go fishing, you'll be thinking you're the new Lefty Kreh. The line will float much higher too.

If your backing is the typical Dacron, it has an essentially endless life, especially on a trout and smallmouth rod, where a fish running far enough to get into the backing is rare. The backing serves more as a spacer, increasing the diameter of the reel spool and increasing the rate of line recovery with each revolution of the handle. But even on the reels I use for bonefish and tarpon the Dacron lasts forever - or until it becomes abraded from rubbing on obstacles in the water during a fish's run. I can't recall ever replacing a reel's backing, but I have cut out an abraded section or two - Dacron splices easly, smoothly and with 100% strength post splice.

A couple a weeks ago I was fishing the Jackson River down below Lexington, near Covington, with one of my brothers. He owns Riders Up Outfitters in Clifton Forge and also guides on the James and Jackson Rivers and other rivers too. He has a nice western style driftboat - good fun to fish out of and perfect for the Jackson or James. Anyway, we decided to just use his rods rather than rigging mine. The rods were a 3wt, a 6wt and an 8wt. The 8 for big streamers, the 6 for a dry fly with a nymph dropper and the 3 for smaller dry's. That 6wt almost come home with me!

JPK
 
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