So it begins....

Yorker

Adventurer
I wouldn't worry about the cappings. It is a shame they painted them but- oh well. Just drive it and have fun. Don't worry about what other people think about it.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Haha, yeah, don't worry about us. Like I said, it's all a matter of taste. If you're happy with it, leave it.
If you do decide to remove the paint, I'd either use a good chemical stripper and mask really well or remove the parts. They are all held on with rivets and can be removed and installed easily. Then strip them and replace them.
I wouldn't use any mechanical means of stripping unless you're planning on getting them hot dipped again.
Keep in mind that your Land Rover is 46 years old and the galvanized bits may have been painted because they were getting rusty (it does happen). So if you strip them they may actually look worse if you don't get them hot dipped again.

edit to fix typo
 
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Wander

Expedition Leader
Good points. Maybe I'll just let it ride for a while and tackle the cappings later- but I can also envision how good it will look with them exposed. So either way I'm going to loose the rivets unless I just leave it alone.

I've got a "convertable hood" on my list of things to add for the summer time so maybe when I save up enough for that-or sell a kidney-I'll take another look at taking off the cappings since the hardtop will be off.

OR maybe I'll paint them a contrasting color for the full pimp look- Kidding!

Not to be picky but it's actually 46 years old Tom but what's 10 years in Rover time??:elkgrin:
 

Yorker

Adventurer
Its a Rover- I'd definitely let it ride a while and wait and see what else might need your attention. You never can tell. After you get used to it and put 10k on it or so maybe you can worry about little cosmetic issues like the cappings. ;)
 

JSBriggs

Adventurer
The paint on the galv. bugs me as well, but I would leave it as it is. If you really want to do it 'right' I would get a spare set of cappings and have them freshly galvanized and then swap for the ones on there.

Regardless, its a nice truck. Enjoy.

-Jeff
 

Wander

Expedition Leader
Well I guess from the drivers seat you can't see the cappings so I'll try to spend more time there. I am going to the DMV tomorrow to turn in my title app and get my plates so I can drive it legally. I drove it around the neighborhood for a while tonight and have concluded that the odometer is not working so I added that to the list. The rest of the gauges seem to be working-at least they were tonight. When I test drove it the speedo was jumping about but is seemed to settle down tonight. I'll put some grease on that this weekend.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Not to be picky but it's actually 46 years old Tom but what's 10 years in Rover time??:elkgrin:
I should proof read my posts more often. :Wow1:

Broken speedo cables are a lot more common than broken speedometer.
If the transfer case rear output flange nut is loose the speedometer needle will bounce around. If really loose the speedometer may not register at all.
 
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Wander

Expedition Leader
Thanks, I am looking forward to the community aspect of these old gems, that makes it even more fun.

A few things I've noticed so far. It's not leaking enough to drop onto the garage floor. I'm not going to kid myself in thinking it's not leaking anything but I expected it to mark its territory by now and from what I've read here it's almost creepy. She seems to be cold natured as I've got to choke it to start (pretty normal) but it seems I have to leave the choke out for while when driving. This of course makes it run rich and smell like an old out board. I've also started pushing it out of the garage so I don't smoke up the house while it warms up-got in a little heat for that one yesterday. The weather has been cool and it's not smoking more than I would expect with the choke out so I don't think it's a problem-what do you all think? I know I promised some more pictures but I've been pretty buried at work so I'll try to get some this weekend after the rain moves out. I'm also hoping to get to the DMV to register it tomorrow so I don't have to sneak around the neighborhood to drive it.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
If it isn't leaking, suspect that it's empty.

Check the swivel balls, transmission and transfercase, as well as the axles. Do it now, before it's too late. You could have really good seals, or you could be running dry.

A little healthy skepticism is a good thing here.
 

Wander

Expedition Leader
If it isn't leaking, suspect that it's empty.

Check the swivel balls, transmission and transfercase, as well as the axles. Do it now, before it's too late. You could have really good seals, or you could be running dry.

A little healthy skepticism is a good thing here.

I'm right there with you Mike. Sorry for the dumb question but this is the first vehicle I've had with swivel balls that need checking, how do you go about doing this?
 
S

stu454

Guest
Leave the weekend before Halloween open for The Old North State LR Uwharrie Rover Expedition in the Uwharrie National Forest.

A great bunch of people, good trails and camping; it's hard to beat.
 

Yorker

Adventurer
I'm right there with you Mike. Sorry for the dumb question but this is the first vehicle I've had with swivel balls that need checking, how do you go about doing this?

look underneath the vehicle and you'll see a threaded plug on each one. Remove the plug and the oil should be even with the bottom of the hole. Obviously you need to be parked on a level spot etc etc etc.
Oils.jpg
 
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Wander

Expedition Leader
Thanks Stu, I pulled up their site last night, looks like a good time!

Yorker-thank you for that I'm going to print that and keep it in the Rover. I noticed in the brake fluid section it lists DOT 3 but I've seen mention of only using DOT 4 to protect the seals- is that correct?
 

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