Solar panel and IBS battery monitor query
- Thread starter wuntenn
- Start date
This meter comes with Anderson plugs on both ends, the small ones, so you can use it universally with anything you have wired with the plugs. In this case, I was running two 12v fridges for 24 hours to measure how much power was used. You can get it with no end, etc. Perhaps it can be sourced locally, if not, here is where I got it. http://www.powerwerx.com/digital-meters/
note: you notice I have the Anderson power poles installed in the vehicle, so I can insert it anywhere, and measure what I am using accurately.
I uploaded a better picture so you can see how it is rigged up, just a temporary test in this case.
note: you notice I have the Anderson power poles installed in the vehicle, so I can insert it anywhere, and measure what I am using accurately.
I uploaded a better picture so you can see how it is rigged up, just a temporary test in this case.
One note, if I had read the manual I might have known, it tracks elapsed time power was used, not total elapsed time... which is fine, if you know what to expect. So for example, in 24 hours, I had 21 hours with some kind of load, as indicated in the picture, and then total watts, amps, etc. Handy, though I wish the screen flashed by the various options a little slower.
Cheers
Cheers
Hi chaps - slowly progressing with electrics. Solar panel installed and working into Morningstar Pro30.
Today was puzzling. Wired a 12V lighter socket up to accept the Engel fridge plug, connected to the 'Load' outlet on the Morningstar. Checked voltage with the meter at the new socket and it was getting 12.9v. Little lights on the outlet socket would light up if connected, so getting power there for sure. Connected fridge and switched on. Nothing. Read fridge instruction to 'reverse polarity of supply if power light does not come on' and tried this. Nothing.
Then pulled fridge lead the full length of van and plugged it into the original LR dash socket and the fridge hums away contentedly as it should.
Back to new socket, put meter probes inside - one to touch the + inner tip of the socket and other to the - casing and the meter shows full whack of power. Again try fridge plug and still no go.
Is there anything I am overlooking here that could cause this?
Today was puzzling. Wired a 12V lighter socket up to accept the Engel fridge plug, connected to the 'Load' outlet on the Morningstar. Checked voltage with the meter at the new socket and it was getting 12.9v. Little lights on the outlet socket would light up if connected, so getting power there for sure. Connected fridge and switched on. Nothing. Read fridge instruction to 'reverse polarity of supply if power light does not come on' and tried this. Nothing.
Then pulled fridge lead the full length of van and plugged it into the original LR dash socket and the fridge hums away contentedly as it should.
Back to new socket, put meter probes inside - one to touch the + inner tip of the socket and other to the - casing and the meter shows full whack of power. Again try fridge plug and still no go.
Is there anything I am overlooking here that could cause this?
Bad socket, notoriously crappy. Replace with Anderson plugs or new socket? You can also try a different "position" like a half twist in the socket. As expensive as they are, they seem to be quite fragile. I have one that is "borderline" and one working perfectly, I need to figure out what goes wrong with them.
Aye it could be a bad one - they're not very well engineered. My next step is to try another lighter-plugged item such as a GPS unit to see if it works in the new socket. Anderson plugs might be the answer, although I was keen to retain the lighter-socket-plug so I could use the fridge in our car if needed.
I usually just keep a spare around, I have two sockets installed. I am very careful, and also installed them where it can't be bumped. If one gets flakey, you can use the other until you have time to swap it out. http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=26194&pos=12
Well my solar setup is working fine, fridge purring away nicely, batteries maintaining good charge. I've checked and the IBS unit only allows charging of the main battery according to my meter, and the aux battery is not charged when solar is connected and the aux battery becomes fully charged. This does happen with the newer IBS units - once aux is full the relay switches charging to the main battery (what they call 'bi-directional'). I've queried this with IBS directly and they've confirmed my IBS unit is the older version which predates the bi-directional charging ability, but inform me that a new processor unit can be supplied for installation using a wiring loom adaptor to update the system, for about 1/3 of the cost of the new full kit, so it might be worth considering.
Anyway I have also installed a mains hookup and RCD and my query is - I've been given a new long orange mains hookup lead and I've cut off and used up some of it to connect internally from the RCD to the socket outlet, and for wiring internally inside the mains unit/RCD. Now I need a decent earth cable to run from the mains unit/RCD to the chassis - would I be ok to use a spare length of quality solar cable 4mm(2) for this? My thinking being that it's well sheathed, and multi-strand rather than solid, so more robust?
Or is there some reasons not to?
Anyway I have also installed a mains hookup and RCD and my query is - I've been given a new long orange mains hookup lead and I've cut off and used up some of it to connect internally from the RCD to the socket outlet, and for wiring internally inside the mains unit/RCD. Now I need a decent earth cable to run from the mains unit/RCD to the chassis - would I be ok to use a spare length of quality solar cable 4mm(2) for this? My thinking being that it's well sheathed, and multi-strand rather than solid, so more robust?
Or is there some reasons not to?
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Here's the solar controller and RCD for mains hookups. The 350W inverter was situated above it - that's its base you can see at frame top - but I've moved it over to the other side of he van. Its still not wired in yet. All this pictured is just behind the drivers seat, separated from the main rear area by a wood partition so its not easily interfered with, or can easily have a cup of tea dropped onto it. Since I took this I've installed the outlet socket to the right - so, the mains cable enters through the bottom and exits top to the outlet socket.
View attachment 231603
When you say my earth should be the same size - same size as what?
View attachment 231603
When you say my earth should be the same size - same size as what?
That all looks awesome-- you should be over here helping me.
OK, I get it now, I reread your post, and see what you are trying to day. You want to run an earth ground to the chassis. I would recommend an earth ground strap. 1" x your length. The reason you want strap is so it does not resonate from RF.
Along these lines; https://www.hamcity.com/store/pc/GROUND-STRAP-p686.htm
What was the outcome of your 12v socket issue? Do you still intend to setup the load side of the controller, it will be nice to see that setup.
Your fire extinguisher should be located in an easily accessed place, least likely to be on fire first. Probably not next to the solar controller. I have mind in rear passenger door, but yours looks a little large for that, just a thought.
I see you are getting 2.9 Amps charge, is that with the 350w of panels? What were the sun conditions at that time?
The third read wire, I think it's the + battery is not all the way into the slot. You should fit it, and trim it so there is no bare wire exposed. I know you've done a lot of other work since then, so it may already be tidied up.
Finally, I love your choice of Charge Controllers, it looks great. Keep the pictures coming.
OK, I get it now, I reread your post, and see what you are trying to day. You want to run an earth ground to the chassis. I would recommend an earth ground strap. 1" x your length. The reason you want strap is so it does not resonate from RF.
Along these lines; https://www.hamcity.com/store/pc/GROUND-STRAP-p686.htm
What was the outcome of your 12v socket issue? Do you still intend to setup the load side of the controller, it will be nice to see that setup.
Your fire extinguisher should be located in an easily accessed place, least likely to be on fire first. Probably not next to the solar controller. I have mind in rear passenger door, but yours looks a little large for that, just a thought.
I see you are getting 2.9 Amps charge, is that with the 350w of panels? What were the sun conditions at that time?
The third read wire, I think it's the + battery is not all the way into the slot. You should fit it, and trim it so there is no bare wire exposed. I know you've done a lot of other work since then, so it may already be tidied up.
Finally, I love your choice of Charge Controllers, it looks great. Keep the pictures coming.
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Ha! Learning as I go!
Ok - here's how it currently looks:
Plastic trunking used for all runs, the run to the left of the board is the wiring to the roof lights (6 LED's in total: 4 in the lower roof and 2 in the upper lifting part of the roof). The solar wires coming in from the roof are in the spiral binding top left and come in behind the solar controller in the gap between the mounting boards. The mounting boards are attached to 1' blocks to provide an air gap and each board is drilled with a series of large holes behind the controller and RCD box to enable good airflow. Big orange wire is the mains outlet coming from the RCD. And the smaller black and red with the fuse to the right is the feed to the 12v socket for the fridge attached to the 'Load' circuit on the solar controller.
This will give you a better sense of the location, just behind the driver's seat (you can see the seatbelt mounts):
So, the 12v outlet for the fridge? Yes - I got that fixed. Turned out the live end pin of the Engel power cable plug is too fat for the small ceramic blocks at the bottom of the 12v socket. I'd to pull one off and it all works fine now.
The wiring to the fridge is hidden behind the storage boxes - this series of pictures will show it - the wooden front is removed, the plastic boxes pulled out, and the wiring running in the gap behind:
To protect the 12v socket I've drilled a hole into a small plastic junction box and installed it inside with the box firmly screwed to the timber frame:
This is all concealed and protected behind the plastic box racking along the drivers side. The wires are all sheathed in flexy coil and the plug itself will be cable-tied in when it's complete.
Ok - here's how it currently looks:
Plastic trunking used for all runs, the run to the left of the board is the wiring to the roof lights (6 LED's in total: 4 in the lower roof and 2 in the upper lifting part of the roof). The solar wires coming in from the roof are in the spiral binding top left and come in behind the solar controller in the gap between the mounting boards. The mounting boards are attached to 1' blocks to provide an air gap and each board is drilled with a series of large holes behind the controller and RCD box to enable good airflow. Big orange wire is the mains outlet coming from the RCD. And the smaller black and red with the fuse to the right is the feed to the 12v socket for the fridge attached to the 'Load' circuit on the solar controller.
This will give you a better sense of the location, just behind the driver's seat (you can see the seatbelt mounts):
So, the 12v outlet for the fridge? Yes - I got that fixed. Turned out the live end pin of the Engel power cable plug is too fat for the small ceramic blocks at the bottom of the 12v socket. I'd to pull one off and it all works fine now.
The wiring to the fridge is hidden behind the storage boxes - this series of pictures will show it - the wooden front is removed, the plastic boxes pulled out, and the wiring running in the gap behind:
To protect the 12v socket I've drilled a hole into a small plastic junction box and installed it inside with the box firmly screwed to the timber frame:
This is all concealed and protected behind the plastic box racking along the drivers side. The wires are all sheathed in flexy coil and the plug itself will be cable-tied in when it's complete.
The inverter has been shifted - and so has the fire extinguisher! I have an extinguisher in the front and one mounted on the back door. Inverter wiring is still to be done which is why the wires are hanging down. It will all be in plastic trunking up the passenger side with a short run from the battery. I'm going to make a flap front to conceal the inverter. That's a carbon monoxide detector you can see on the side of it.
The wiring is pretty much all inserted properly - what I think you're seeing is the scuff marks on the plastic sheathing from when I cut the wire with pliers. Once I've got it all in place though I will be going over it all and tidying up and adjusting all the bits. It's unbelievable the number of times I've had to connect - disconnect - connect - disconnect etc etc etc
This pic above taken from the steering wheel shows the location of it all - the control and fuse boxes, wooden racking, fridge, to the back door with fire extinguisher on it.
The solar controller is a great bit of kit, and for 1/4 of the normal retail price off ebay I'm happy. The 2.9amp output? That's from a 150w thin flexy solar panel mounted flat on the roof. That pic was taken at 5pm (we're far north so lots of sun at that time), and when the battery was less fully charged it was showing 3.6 amps at noon.
One last thing - I'm not clear how I would connect a 1" earth strap into a fusebox - the earth connection is only a small hole suitable for something like 4mm(2) gauge wire.
The wiring is pretty much all inserted properly - what I think you're seeing is the scuff marks on the plastic sheathing from when I cut the wire with pliers. Once I've got it all in place though I will be going over it all and tidying up and adjusting all the bits. It's unbelievable the number of times I've had to connect - disconnect - connect - disconnect etc etc etc
This pic above taken from the steering wheel shows the location of it all - the control and fuse boxes, wooden racking, fridge, to the back door with fire extinguisher on it.
The solar controller is a great bit of kit, and for 1/4 of the normal retail price off ebay I'm happy. The 2.9amp output? That's from a 150w thin flexy solar panel mounted flat on the roof. That pic was taken at 5pm (we're far north so lots of sun at that time), and when the battery was less fully charged it was showing 3.6 amps at noon.
One last thing - I'm not clear how I would connect a 1" earth strap into a fusebox - the earth connection is only a small hole suitable for something like 4mm(2) gauge wire.
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Everything looks pretty awesome so far. Everything looks very professionally laid out, neat and tidy. It's clear you have put a lot of work into it. I have a couple of questions / comments.
How long is the run for the fridge, what will be the draw on that power run. The wire looks pretty thin on that run. If it is adequate for the max load you might connect you should be ok. I used something like AWG 12 for a pair of dedicated marine sockets, with a max total intended load of 15amps. I would revert you back to that wire sizing chart we put in the beginning of the thread for that.
The earthing straps like that can be ordered (here) and I am sure there from a HAM shop online, or a local shop with eyes on it. Here's a link to strap with terminals. http://shop.hamradiohardware.com/1-...er-Ground-Strap-w-1-4-terminals-1x1-8x120.htm
What size is your inverter and how far from the batteries will it be. The power wire to supply it, might need to be pretty substantial, so the closer to the batteries it is, the better.
How long is the run for the fridge, what will be the draw on that power run. The wire looks pretty thin on that run. If it is adequate for the max load you might connect you should be ok. I used something like AWG 12 for a pair of dedicated marine sockets, with a max total intended load of 15amps. I would revert you back to that wire sizing chart we put in the beginning of the thread for that.
The earthing straps like that can be ordered (here) and I am sure there from a HAM shop online, or a local shop with eyes on it. Here's a link to strap with terminals. http://shop.hamradiohardware.com/1-...er-Ground-Strap-w-1-4-terminals-1x1-8x120.htm
What size is your inverter and how far from the batteries will it be. The power wire to supply it, might need to be pretty substantial, so the closer to the batteries it is, the better.