dogsled
New member
Hey gang -
I've been silent on this forum for a long time, but though I'd share a recent mod to my 60.
I run a 24v 1987 HJ-60 (Cdn spec) and have, like many of my brethren, had my share of battery-related issues when parked for an extended period in cold weather. I also, like many of my brethren, enjoy getting way off-grid for extended periods. Solar power is a perfect solution for both issues, but up until now I've 'made do' with small panels and temporary solutions.
No longer! Over the course of a weekend, I fabricated a simple rack out of two parallel aluminum U-channel extrusions to fit a 165w 24v panel, and installed it into my Cruiser.
Panel prices have come down considerably. The panel, MPPT charge controller (i.e. a "smart" one that does cool things to manage the charge) and wiring cost about $350 shipped, the aluminum stock and assorted stainless fasteners, rubber boots, etc about $35.
I opted to mount the MPPT controller within the engine compartment above the fender. It's not IP67, but this location (behind the driver side fender under the brake reservoir) should be high and dry under most circumstances.
I mounted the u-channel directly underneath my Hannibal rack to preserve rooftop real estate for tents and such, as well as to provide some limited protection for the panel. Panel faces are rated for hail strikes, but not for gravel. The panel is secured to the rack with threaded bar bolts that go through both rack and panel for zero vibration, even under load at highway speeds. I lined the lower face of the U-channel with low-friction tape to allow the panel to more easily slide in the channel, and placed rubber bump stops on the top face where the channel is bolted to the Hannibal rack to act as guides and to further dampen any vibration.
The panel slides into the rack from the front and can be managed by one person, as the load is effectively cantilevered until the panel clears the channels, at which point it can be easily balanced on the roof and lowered (one handed) to the hood. Note the large rubber bumpers affixed to the front of the panel to prevent any scratches or such on the hood.
Once lowered, the panel is plugged into the charge controller through the grill.
I'm using colour coded 10 gauge double insulated cables with fast and foolproof MC4 connectors - same as for a rooftop solar install - in order to maximize efficiency and to ensure proper polarity. I've got it set up as a 20' extension that allows me to either leave the panel in place on the hood, or relocate it somewhere more suitable if I have the option to park the vehicle itself in the shade.
There's also a slick digital readout that allows me to monitor panel inputs and battery bank condition from the driver's position.
Anyway. Thought I'd share my project with a group that's taught me a lot about expedition rigging. Enjoy the trail, wherever it may take you.
I've been silent on this forum for a long time, but though I'd share a recent mod to my 60.
I run a 24v 1987 HJ-60 (Cdn spec) and have, like many of my brethren, had my share of battery-related issues when parked for an extended period in cold weather. I also, like many of my brethren, enjoy getting way off-grid for extended periods. Solar power is a perfect solution for both issues, but up until now I've 'made do' with small panels and temporary solutions.
No longer! Over the course of a weekend, I fabricated a simple rack out of two parallel aluminum U-channel extrusions to fit a 165w 24v panel, and installed it into my Cruiser.
Panel prices have come down considerably. The panel, MPPT charge controller (i.e. a "smart" one that does cool things to manage the charge) and wiring cost about $350 shipped, the aluminum stock and assorted stainless fasteners, rubber boots, etc about $35.
I opted to mount the MPPT controller within the engine compartment above the fender. It's not IP67, but this location (behind the driver side fender under the brake reservoir) should be high and dry under most circumstances.
I mounted the u-channel directly underneath my Hannibal rack to preserve rooftop real estate for tents and such, as well as to provide some limited protection for the panel. Panel faces are rated for hail strikes, but not for gravel. The panel is secured to the rack with threaded bar bolts that go through both rack and panel for zero vibration, even under load at highway speeds. I lined the lower face of the U-channel with low-friction tape to allow the panel to more easily slide in the channel, and placed rubber bump stops on the top face where the channel is bolted to the Hannibal rack to act as guides and to further dampen any vibration.
The panel slides into the rack from the front and can be managed by one person, as the load is effectively cantilevered until the panel clears the channels, at which point it can be easily balanced on the roof and lowered (one handed) to the hood. Note the large rubber bumpers affixed to the front of the panel to prevent any scratches or such on the hood.
Once lowered, the panel is plugged into the charge controller through the grill.
I'm using colour coded 10 gauge double insulated cables with fast and foolproof MC4 connectors - same as for a rooftop solar install - in order to maximize efficiency and to ensure proper polarity. I've got it set up as a 20' extension that allows me to either leave the panel in place on the hood, or relocate it somewhere more suitable if I have the option to park the vehicle itself in the shade.
There's also a slick digital readout that allows me to monitor panel inputs and battery bank condition from the driver's position.
Anyway. Thought I'd share my project with a group that's taught me a lot about expedition rigging. Enjoy the trail, wherever it may take you.
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