BenjaminAsher
Observer
I have been trying to figure this out on my own without bothering you guys, but I have been reading and studying about solar setups on this forum for 2 weeks, and still don't completely understand everything. I have been an ExpedPortal contributor with my M1101 trailers, but electrical doesn't come easy to me. I've been purchased my solar stuff for over 2 weeks, and want to get everything installed soon to confirm everything works within some product's 30 day warranties. First off, thanks for ALL the help!!! When I get everything nailed down clearly, and going in the right direction, I want to start a build thread to share/help others. If I start a build thread now, I'm afraid I may confuse others or share incorrect information.
I have a 2010 4Runner Limited with a GOBI Stealth Roof Rack.
Renogy 100w Eclipse Solar Panel, Measures: 40.8" x 20.7" (Monocrystalline, w/ Sunpower Cells)
Renogy 20ft 12AWG MC4 Cables (I can cut down to correct length and add new MC4 Connectors)
Morningstar ProStar PS-30M Solar Charge Controller
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover
Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 100A Circuit Breaker
I plan to purchase an Engel Fridge later in the year, and expect I "may" then need to get a second 100w Panel, which is why I purchased the most efficient/compact panel I could find. I also hope to add a dual battery setup at "some point" when money allows. A WARN M8000S Winch is already installed (directly to the battery), and I am aware that doesn't go through the Fuse Block.
HERE ARE MY QUESTIONS:
#1
I am planing to install the 100a Blue Sea Circuit Breaker between the battery, and the Blue Sea Fuse Block for added safety, and so I can shut down all or most of my aftermarket mods with one breaker in case of any electrical issues or power drain. My question is where in this setup should I connect the Morningstar Solar Controller? It seams I should connect it to the Fuse Block, which will power the battery (Assuming the Breaker isn't tripped). Is that Correct?
#2
The Morningstar Solar Controller features LVD (Low Voltage Disconnect) for the load terminals. However, they are only small terminals. It seams like it would be good to have LVD when I later add a fridge, so it will shut off before I completely discharge my battery. Most people don't seam to be using the "load" terminals on their charge controllers, thus waisting the feature of LVD? Most people just attach their fridge directly to the Fuse Block or battery. What is the preferred method? I doubt you could run something like a fridge directly off the Solar Charge Controller wired onto the load terminal, but I suppose I could run a relay from the load terminal, that shuts down the fridge?
#3
I plan to mount the Solar Charge Controller in the cargo area, but I'm not sure where to mount the Fuse Block? Should I put the Fuse Block in the Cargo area with the Charge Controller, or under the hood? In a few months, I'm getting a Drawer(s) from Adventure Trailers, and want to mount the Charge Controller (and "maybe" the Fuse Block) on the front of the Drawers, so it can be seen/monitored from inside the vehicle if I lean the back seat forward. However, I'm thinking the Fuse Block should really stay under the hood?
UNDER THE HOOD: (Pro & Cons)
If I mount Under the hood, at present, I will only need to run power to the cargo area for the Solar Charge Controller (and continue the wiring onto the roof out the back hatch for the panel). When I later get an Engel Fridge, I will run power wires for that too, or I may run the fridge wires front to back while I have all the trim removed when I install the solar setup. The advantage I see with mounting the Fuse Block under the hood, is it will be easier to add new wires and new switches to the dash, because I just have to pass through the firewall. There will be less trim to remove as I add new gear and switches to control them, and shorter distance from under hood to dash.
CARGO AREA: (Pro & Cons)
If I mount in the cargo area, I will run a 8-10 AWG Wire to the cargo area and mount the Fuse Block next to the Solar Charge Controller, but then I have to run lots of wires back to the dash for the switches, and a number of the devices the Fuse Block will power are under the hood, or on the front bumper.
----------------------
If it helps, this is what I have to install, or plan to install as money allows. (I'm constantly wanting more stuff because of you guys!)
WARN M8000S Winch (Installed)
Federal Signal 8" Q2 Mechanical Siren w/ Foot Pedal (Mounted, but not yet hooked up)
GROTE 20" LED Light Bar for Front Bumper (Arriving Tomorrow)
Various Rack Mounted 10" LED "Scene Lights" (Not Yet Purchased)
Rock Lights (Not Yet Purchased)
Engel Fridge (Not Yet Purchased)
ARB Air Compressor (Not Yet Purchased)
Various Front/Rear "Always Hot" Blue Sea USB and 12v ports (Purchased)
Solar Setup Mentioned Above
Thanks for all the great threads, and help with my questions!
I have a 2010 4Runner Limited with a GOBI Stealth Roof Rack.
Renogy 100w Eclipse Solar Panel, Measures: 40.8" x 20.7" (Monocrystalline, w/ Sunpower Cells)
Renogy 20ft 12AWG MC4 Cables (I can cut down to correct length and add new MC4 Connectors)
Morningstar ProStar PS-30M Solar Charge Controller
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover
Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 100A Circuit Breaker
I plan to purchase an Engel Fridge later in the year, and expect I "may" then need to get a second 100w Panel, which is why I purchased the most efficient/compact panel I could find. I also hope to add a dual battery setup at "some point" when money allows. A WARN M8000S Winch is already installed (directly to the battery), and I am aware that doesn't go through the Fuse Block.
HERE ARE MY QUESTIONS:
#1
I am planing to install the 100a Blue Sea Circuit Breaker between the battery, and the Blue Sea Fuse Block for added safety, and so I can shut down all or most of my aftermarket mods with one breaker in case of any electrical issues or power drain. My question is where in this setup should I connect the Morningstar Solar Controller? It seams I should connect it to the Fuse Block, which will power the battery (Assuming the Breaker isn't tripped). Is that Correct?
#2
The Morningstar Solar Controller features LVD (Low Voltage Disconnect) for the load terminals. However, they are only small terminals. It seams like it would be good to have LVD when I later add a fridge, so it will shut off before I completely discharge my battery. Most people don't seam to be using the "load" terminals on their charge controllers, thus waisting the feature of LVD? Most people just attach their fridge directly to the Fuse Block or battery. What is the preferred method? I doubt you could run something like a fridge directly off the Solar Charge Controller wired onto the load terminal, but I suppose I could run a relay from the load terminal, that shuts down the fridge?
#3
I plan to mount the Solar Charge Controller in the cargo area, but I'm not sure where to mount the Fuse Block? Should I put the Fuse Block in the Cargo area with the Charge Controller, or under the hood? In a few months, I'm getting a Drawer(s) from Adventure Trailers, and want to mount the Charge Controller (and "maybe" the Fuse Block) on the front of the Drawers, so it can be seen/monitored from inside the vehicle if I lean the back seat forward. However, I'm thinking the Fuse Block should really stay under the hood?
UNDER THE HOOD: (Pro & Cons)
If I mount Under the hood, at present, I will only need to run power to the cargo area for the Solar Charge Controller (and continue the wiring onto the roof out the back hatch for the panel). When I later get an Engel Fridge, I will run power wires for that too, or I may run the fridge wires front to back while I have all the trim removed when I install the solar setup. The advantage I see with mounting the Fuse Block under the hood, is it will be easier to add new wires and new switches to the dash, because I just have to pass through the firewall. There will be less trim to remove as I add new gear and switches to control them, and shorter distance from under hood to dash.
CARGO AREA: (Pro & Cons)
If I mount in the cargo area, I will run a 8-10 AWG Wire to the cargo area and mount the Fuse Block next to the Solar Charge Controller, but then I have to run lots of wires back to the dash for the switches, and a number of the devices the Fuse Block will power are under the hood, or on the front bumper.
----------------------
If it helps, this is what I have to install, or plan to install as money allows. (I'm constantly wanting more stuff because of you guys!)
WARN M8000S Winch (Installed)
Federal Signal 8" Q2 Mechanical Siren w/ Foot Pedal (Mounted, but not yet hooked up)
GROTE 20" LED Light Bar for Front Bumper (Arriving Tomorrow)
Various Rack Mounted 10" LED "Scene Lights" (Not Yet Purchased)
Rock Lights (Not Yet Purchased)
Engel Fridge (Not Yet Purchased)
ARB Air Compressor (Not Yet Purchased)
Various Front/Rear "Always Hot" Blue Sea USB and 12v ports (Purchased)
Solar Setup Mentioned Above
Thanks for all the great threads, and help with my questions!
