Solar suitcase w/ fixed panel controller question

[Echodawg]

I currently have a Renogy 100watt suitcase with an attached 20a Renogy Voyager pwm controller. I also just mounted a fixed Renogy 100watt panel on my roof rack and plan to run them in series and deploy the suitcase when needed in camp. I plan on moving the controller from the suitcase and mounting it near my battery. My question is, should I go ahead and just replace the pwm with say a Renogy Rover MPPT controller? I have read that MPPT are so much more efficient but I have also read that with only 200watts of panels it is unnecessary. The cost difference does not bother me.

 

[dwh]

"Run whatcha brung!"

What you have is fine. I'd probably rig the panels in parallel, but either way works.

 

[Echodawg]

"Run whatcha brung!"

What you have is fine. I'd probably rig the panels in parallel, but either way works.

Lol, I meant to type parallel not series. Thanks for the info.

 

[john61ct]

Yes MPPT is required if series'ing panels.

Victron SmartSolar 75/15 is my reco for small systems, can A/B test parallel vs series as you like.

 

[rayra]

When I rigged the roof mount for my folding panel kit I went ahead and relocated the PWM controller into the vehicle (into my rear / aux power setup) so the controller wouldn't be cooking up on the roof all the time. I've got a Y-connector on the controller input and wire running to the roof panel location and the other branch goes to a repurposed Anderson connector on the back of my aux panel, so if I want to dismount the panel and set it up on the ground far from the vehicle I can just put long cable on it and jack it in.
I left the mounting bracket and machine screws / nuts on the backside of the panel. If I ever need to loan the panel out or leave it somewhere, I can transfer the controller back to the panel.
I also went with a new Renogy PWM controller as the panel kit was a precursor to the Renogy kit and had a no-name PWM controller on it and wasn't sure it was doing the job to the fullest. Kept it as a spare.

 

[john61ct]

SC needs to be close to the target bank anyway

 

[Echodawg]

When I rigged the roof mount for my folding panel kit I went ahead and relocated the PWM controller into the vehicle (into my rear / aux power setup) so the controller wouldn't be cooking up on the roof all the time. I've got a Y-connector on the controller input and wire running to the roof panel location and the other branch goes to a repurposed Anderson connector on the back of my aux panel, so if I want to dismount the panel and set it up on the ground far from the vehicle I can just put long cable on it and jack it in.
I left the mounting bracket and machine screws / nuts on the backside of the panel. If I ever need to loan the panel out or leave it somewhere, I can transfer the controller back to the panel.
I also went with a new Renogy PWM controller as the panel kit was a precursor to the Renogy kit and had a no-name PWM controller on it and wasn't sure it was doing the job to the fullest. Kept it as a spare.

Sweet setup. I just ordered some cables with andersons from Powerwerx. I wonder how often these controllers fail, I do like the idea of having a second one stashed away in the vehicle.

 

[Echodawg]

SC needs to be close to the target bank anyway

I'm running dual batteries under the hood. I was planning on mounting the controller under there to keep it close, hopefully it won't get jacked up from all the extra engine heat. Or I could put it in the cab near the passenger kick panel but not sure if that is too far.

 

[dreadlocks]

for fixed and portable combo, you'll scrape more power with separate charge controllers.. since they will be in separate locations with separate lighting conditions its likely one will always be bypassed by the other with a single controller.

 

[john61ct]

Yes best all panels match per SC.

Heat's bad for batteries too, but if can't be helped. . .

SC bit further's OK, compensate with thicker gauge wire