SOLD! - extremely well-maintained, reliable and capable 2000 7.3 Ford Excursion (DC/Northern Virginia area)

What’s for sale?

Offered for sale is a 2000 Ford Excursion that I’ve spent a lot of time, money, and busted knuckles turning from a rather pedestrian SUV into a fairly capable, long-range touring rig suitable for transporting large families such as mine. My goal was to hit Alaska and the Arctic in 2020, but…Covid. For context, you’ll see that I was definitely inspired by Chris Cordes’ Ex, even though he took his a different route than I. It does have approximately 271k miles, but it has never let me down on a trip and is reliable enough that I trust the rig for my 50-mile daily commute in DC traffic.

Why am I selling it?

Honesty time: I’m not overly excited about selling the Ex. It’s been a labor (sometimes a LOT of labor) of love, and is pretty much exactly where I want it for a reliable daily driver and large-family transporter that is capable of doing the Bald Mountain Jeep Trail and other drives in Shenandoah where I spend a fair amount of time. However…my family doesn’t really go out as a large group anymore, and I really miss having a pickup truck for the slate of home renovations that are on the horizon. So while I could buy another pickup and keep the Ex for trips, it would mean that it would be doing a lot of sitting…and sitting isn’t good for diesels, particularly older ones.

In other words: it’s probably time to move a well-loved and -cared for rig to another owner, but this isn’t a fire sale (so no tire-kicking or lowball offers).

Asking price: 40K or best (reasonable) offer.

Why should I pay this much for a 21-year old vehicle?

I’m not going to be one of those folks who’ll try to sell a clapped-out (or even decently maintained) stock-ish 7.3 Excursion for top dollar because “they’re million-mile motors.” While they have a well-earned reputation for longevity--which has certainly been born out in the two years that I’ve owned this truck--they aren’t impervious to age (nor is any vehicle, no matter the make). What they ARE, however, is probably the most capable vehicle for moving a large family (plus towing up to 10k pounds, if you’re of a mind), or a lot of gear for a smaller group.

So that’d be my argument for a 7.3 Excursion in general. Here’s why I’d argue that this vehicle is worth a premium:

In the last two years that I've owned the vehicle, I’ve pretty much rebuilt the Ex from its large nose to its definitely sizable rear. Happy to provide details of dates and mileage for everything: I have all receipts for what I’ve purchased—well over 25k IN PARTS ALONE, not including labor--as well as for the vehicle back to 2006 when it had 100k miles. I’ve attached an assortment of pictures; for more info, check out my Overland Bound build thread. Additionally, I changed the oil and rotated tires at 5k intervals, fuel filters every 10k, coolant flushes/coolant filters and transmission/transfer case service every year. There’s a number of other smaller things that I’ve done that fall under “maintenance” that aren’t shown here. Essentially, I’ve done everything short of replacing the entire engine to mitigate potential weaknesses or known failure points for the 7.3. I challenge you to find a more well-cared for Excursion that is as close to stock engine reliability but with a highly capable drivetrain and suspension system!
  • Engine and Fuel System: a Powerstroke-focused diesel shop replaced all glow plugs, glow plug controllers, injectors, and injector cups with stock Alliant/International hardware. New under-valve cover harnesses and gaskets. Replaced oil cooler seals. Drained tank and replaced filter screens on fuel pickup. New Rotomaster turbo pedestal and associated seals. Intercooler boots. Motorcraft crank position sensor. New Motorcraft starter. S&B cold air intake. No leaks and doesn’t burn oil. The truck came to me with a Hydra tuner, which I promptly set to “Tow/Economy” and tucked under the dash…the vehicle doesn’t “roll coal” or is otherwise abused.
  • Transmission: replaced original transmission (a well-known weak link on 7.3 Excursions, especially if you tow) with rebuilt unit featuring a billet input shaft and converter, shift kit, and new internals. Includes 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty from a local and extremely well-regarded transmission shop in Fairfax, VA. I also installed a Mishimoto transmission cooler and a Hy-Tec deep transmission pan. New u-joints on rear driveshaft.
  • Cooling System: Mishimoto degas bottle and radiator, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system and billet aluminum filler neck, new Motorcraft water pump, 205 degree thermostat. New upper and lower hoses.
  • Electrical: New, larger-gauge battery cables from CustomBatteryCables.com (new Motorcraft ones are impossible to find). New Optima Red Top primary battery.
  • Brakes: New front rotors, calipers and lines (June 2021), new rear parking brake assembly and rear rotors (September 2019). Replaced leaking hard line to rear brakes, and Hydroboost line.
  • Suspension and Steering: Old Man Emu suspension system (shocks, ~6” lift, extra overload spring in rear, new track bar). Energy suspension poly spring pack bushings and bump stops. Red Head Steering Gears replacement steering box. All front end components except ball joints (tie rod ends, drag link, etc.) replaced with Moog equivalents; ball joints checked frequently but show no signs of excessive play. BDS dual front steering stabilizer.
  • Wheels, Tires, and Gearing: Five 35x12.5R17 General Grabber ATXs mounted on bronze Method 701s. Purchased in February 2020; approximately 16k miles on tires; PLENTY of tread life left. Front and rear axles regeared with 4.11 Yukon gearsets. All axle seals and bearings replaced, as well as front axle u-joints. Eaton Tru-Trac limited slip differential in rear. New Warn manual hubs.
  • Protection and Recovery: ARB front bumper with a Smittybuilt 15.5k winch. Factor 55 flatlink. Buckstop Truckware rear bumper/tire carrier. ARB single air compressor (mounted in rear of vehicle) with external fitting. I have a Master Pull synthetic line and fairlead ($600) that I’ll either return or include with the purchase of the truck, depending on the price and/or whatever vehicle I end up with next.
  • Lighting: KC 644 Pro Sport 644 LED lights (front, spread), KC Gravity LED 4x6 driving lights (in rear bumper). Switches for front and rear KC lights mounted in custom switch panel (with extra slots for additional lighting). Aftermarket Spyder headlights installed by previous owner. LED lights replaced dim factory bulbs in instrument cluster.
  • Gauges: Autometer boost, EGT and transmission temp gauges mounted in interior-colored pod above mirror.
  • Interior: new interior carpet and Kilmat sound deadening. Recovered leather steering wheel. Preparing to recover front seats with Katzkin leather cover, replace drivers lower seat pad. Middle and rear leather seats in great shape for their age.
  • Body: Cut out and replaced driver’s rear rocker panel due to rust (all other panels are rust-free, see pictures). The truck is professionally treated with a rust eliminator, undercoating and wax coating on its underbody and lower door panels.
  • Storage and Comfort: Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform, currently sporting a large Rhino Rack Batwing 270 degree awning. Window tint darkens/cools interior nicely. Sony head unit with ApplePlay. Front and rear AC.
So, hopefully you’ll see that the vehicle’s asking price isn’t a pie-in-the-sky bid for excessive amounts of money in a time when used cars and overland rigs are going for crazy prices. For the naysayers…add up the cost of just the parts, and price out an equivalent, rust-free, well-maintained Ex, or find another vehicle as capable that has seats for eight anywhere near this price point.

How does the vehicle drive? Like I said, it’s my daily, and my commute is 50 miles (and thus the mileage will go up the longer this ad is active). The truck drives really, really well for being a leaf-sprung, heavy duty truck that tips the scales at more than 9,000 pounds. I routinely drive the truck with two fingers, and the rig brakes firmly (if not quickly) in a straight line…no surprises. No excessive body lean because of the new spring packs (no lift blocks like those that come with cheaper kits). The truck averages 13-ish MPG in mixed driving, and can get in the 16s on a long highway stretch if it’s kept at/below 65...the truck doesn't mind going faster, but you'll pay a price at the pump. Not too shabby for a vehicle of it’s size and age…and the 44-gallon fuel tank means that it has a really good range. No need for Rotopax here!

Potential negatives: the truck has some pinstriping (because it’s not a mall crawler) and a few minor dings and dents...the shop that did the rust repair said they could eliminate most of them for $400-ish, but I never bothered. The clear coat is peeling on the rear lift gate handle area. E-brake light has a short and always stays on if relay is plugged in. I keep the relay unplugged because I don’t use the e-brake that often. AC system (which includes front and rear controls) blows on the cooler side of cold...its fine for humid Virginia summers, but will probably need a recharge in the next year or so, depending on where you live. The passenger rear window is starting to close a bit more slowly than I’d like.

For serious buyers: Clear, non-salvage title is in-hand. I’m in the DC metro area, and am willing to drive a reasonable distance. The farther away, the increased chance that I’ll ask for some sort of deposit to account for fuel and my time. I MIGHT be willing to do a partial trade for a full-sized pickup.
 

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A few others that couldn't be attached in the original note...
 

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Here's some answers to a few of the questions I've received:

-- In terms of "power," the 7.3 was never really known as a pulling/acceleration beast...it "grinds slow, but grinds fine." I forgot to mention that the truck also has a 4" exhaust as well as the cold air intake, so that along with a very mild tune has pepped it up a bit. That being said, I built the rig for stock-ish reliability and longevity, not power. Is there more in the engine? Definitely, but I haven't played around with the tuner at all.

-- In terms of towing: I haven't pulled heavy loads with the truck, especially since the built transmission was installed a few months ago. I have no doubts that the rig can still meet (and probably exceed) its factory 10k tow capacity.

-- No rear sway bar: with the poly bushings, new front and, and stout spring packs, the truck is far more stable than with the Helwig rear sway bar and cheap Rough Country lift kit (blocks in the rear) that it had when I bought it.

-- Rust was taken care of to the best of my ability: I had the rot removed and a patch panel replaced, scoured, sealed and oil-undercoated the underside, and wax-filmed the lower body panels. I can't say for 100 percent that there might not be a small amount of rust somewhere, but it definitely isn't visible.

-- I've dye-checked the oil to make sure that the pan isn't leaking (they are a PAIN to replace, and pretty much require that the engine be removed from the chassis). Zero leaks from the oil pan, and the engine valley is dry (a relative rarity for a 7.3). High-pressure oil pump routinely checked, and shows no signs of leakage or reduced performance.

-- Floor space if the third row is removed: 52" wide by 72" deep (plus a bit for the area where the spare tire was formerly mounted. If the second row is laid flat, the space grows to 52" by an impressive 96"

-- No reverse camera, although the radio has an input to display one.

-- How loud is the truck? It's an older-style, non-emissions, non-EGR diesel, so it isn't exactly quiet. The 4" exhaust doesn't help with the rig's stealthiness, either. That being said, the combination of new carpet, additional rubber underlayment, and the Kilmat that was applied to as much of the floor from the rear barn doors up through most of the front firewall has really quieted down the exhaust note and engine noise. The sound from the turbo/aftermarket intake is noticeable, but not unpleasant (IMO), nor is the wastegate actuator.

-- Second and third row seat upholstery quality is very good for the rig's age. They haven't seen anywhere near as much wear, and even though the leather is showing minor cracking in my view they're fine for my kids and anyone else that would sit there. I'm not planning to have them recovered--unlike the front seats, which should get Katzkin's leather replacement covers next week--unless a major tear develops, which isn't anywhere on the horizon.

-- All of the windows (including the rear side vents), door locks, lights, etc. work. The passenger rear window is slowing down a bit, which probably points to a new regulator at some point.

-- The 35" tires rub on the leaf springs at full lock, but I don't find it at all problematic. No, there aren't any wheel spacers.

-- When I say the axles were completely rebuilt, I mean that every seal and bearing (never mind ring and pinion) was replaced. Yes, the axles are "original," but they've received new u-joints in the front. Short of buying aftermarket chromoly axles--which this vehicle doesn't really need, as it isn't built to be a rock-crawler--this is as close to a beefed-up original driveline as I think you'll find. No, I haven't updated the front end to a Dana 60...I'd only do so if the D50 failed.

-- Other body work: I had the right side of the vehicle repainted when I bought it because the clear coat on the fender was peeling. Unsure why this was only happening on this panel (previous shoddy paint work?), but it isn't at all obvious. No, the Carfax showed no accidents when I bought it, and I certainly haven't been in any since May 2019. Roof paint looks good.

-- Forgot to mention that the rig will also be sold with a Ram Mount tablet holder that mounts to a bracket just in front of the passenger seat.

Some additional pictures:
 

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