South From Durban 1/8/07
South from Durban 1/8/07
Hole in The Wall;
I really love this part of the country, rolling hills and mountains to the South of Lesotho, very green this time of year from the summer rains. Wonderful thunderstorm in Kokstad just before we get to the Transkei, fork lightening and heavy rain accompanied our tea and scones at the local café.
Took a few pictures of the huge variety of trailer being towed by vehicles during this busy holiday time. It a very efficient way of increasing your payload and maintaining the space inside the vehicle for passengers. Both important features when the tow vehicles are relatively small and you want to carry as much gear as the average South African family does. From what people tell me they only see a 10 – 15% decrease in fuel efficiency when they tow. Great food for thought for a man in the trailer business.
The Transkei is a very rural, poor, area that maintains the great beauty and charm of what I think of as the 40’s or 50’s. Much of the under development came about under apartheid when the area was considered a “Homeland” and saw little or no investment or improvement. Outside of the towns and larger villages what we would consider “the essentials” of electricity and running water are non existent. The women carrying water and firewood on their heads for miles, and just these daily tasks seem to take up most of their day. From what we have seen the women also tend the fields, and carry the babies.
We head to The Hole-in-the-Wall just south of Coffee Bay for a few days at the coast. As it’s still Summer holidays finding accommodation is very tight but we manage to get a self catering room for a few nights.
The “Wild Coast” of the Transkei is a very special place for us. Beautiful green rolling hills and steep valleys leading down to an indigenous coastal forest. A walk through the forest brings you to golden sandy beaches between rocky outcrops. The sea here is refreshing without being cold and the surf is fun to play in for hours.
Interesting set up here. We are staying in a compound sealed off from the rest of the “world” behind barbed wire, fences, gates, and guards. It keeps all the white people in and all the black people out. A huge change from the 80’s when the whites kept the blacks behind barbed wire in townships. Yet an other twist to the on going South African saga that I find so interesting, puzzling, and complex.
Addo Elephant Park;
This is our fourth visit to Addo over a period of 15 years. It’s a great park as most of the parks in the South African Parks System are. Our first day was like many I’ve had in Parks in Southern Africa we saw very little game. A cold front had swing up from the Cape and it was cold and windy, I think the Elephants were all snuggled up together playing cards around the campfire.
I did have a moment of panic in the Park when for the second time in the same day the rental car refused to start. The first time I thought it was something going on with the immobilizer and car alarm system, which seemed to sort itself out. The second time we were deep in the Park at a hide when it refused to start again. We tried our earlier ploy of leaving the car for a while and trying to start it again but nothing happened, not even the warning lights came on. Ignoring all the warning “Never get out of your car in the Park” I got out of the car and lifted the hood. Both battery terminals were loose, in fact I easily removed them from the terminal posts. As all of you know you should never leave home without ……. No not an American Express Card…. A Leatherman. Which I just so happened to have in one of the bags in the car. The problem was I didn’t know which one, so I had to unpack the whole car in the middle of the Park to find the thing. With the handy dandy tool I fixed the problem in no time and we were back on our way.
Do you think Leatherman will pay me vast sums of money to use this story in one of their advertisements?
Again accommodation is very tight but we manage to book into the Avoca River Cabins
www.gardenroute.co.za/addo/avoca an amazing place right on the banks of the Sundays River, very restful apart from the mosquitoes (make a note to bring mozi nets on all your travels).
Our second day at Addo was one of those African days you remember your whole life, and a story that grows with each telling. Mariah, our daughter, is into creating lists and keeping tally of things, and on this day she decided to keep track of all of the animals we saw. Here is her list:
Elephants 152
Red Hartebeest 22
Black-Backed Jackal 2
Ostrich 40
Blue Crane 2
Zebra 28
Warthogs 73
Bokmakierie 1
Cape Buffalo 1
Kudu 26
Eland 33
Vervet Monkeys 7
Black Headed Herons 4
Flightless Dung Beetles Too many to count!
A really special moment was when we saw a group of four females protecting a 3 hour old calf. It was being shaded from the sun by the adults and the mother was helping the calf to it’s feet so it could suckle.
From here South again to Hog’s Back