South Africa and Mozambique 12/08/06

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
BajaTaco said:
Martyn, I just now found this thread of yours. I had no idea you went to Africa. Sounds like a fabulous trip so far! I'm interested to hear more about your swim with the dolphins.

Take care and keep sending us updates :wavey:

I'll get the pictures from the water proof camera developed in Cape Town and I'll post them when I get them back. Will give full details when I post.

Martyn
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
South From Durban 1/8/07

South from Durban 1/8/07
Hole in The Wall;

I really love this part of the country, rolling hills and mountains to the South of Lesotho, very green this time of year from the summer rains. Wonderful thunderstorm in Kokstad just before we get to the Transkei, fork lightening and heavy rain accompanied our tea and scones at the local café.

Took a few pictures of the huge variety of trailer being towed by vehicles during this busy holiday time. It a very efficient way of increasing your payload and maintaining the space inside the vehicle for passengers. Both important features when the tow vehicles are relatively small and you want to carry as much gear as the average South African family does. From what people tell me they only see a 10 – 15% decrease in fuel efficiency when they tow. Great food for thought for a man in the trailer business.

The Transkei is a very rural, poor, area that maintains the great beauty and charm of what I think of as the 40’s or 50’s. Much of the under development came about under apartheid when the area was considered a “Homeland” and saw little or no investment or improvement. Outside of the towns and larger villages what we would consider “the essentials” of electricity and running water are non existent. The women carrying water and firewood on their heads for miles, and just these daily tasks seem to take up most of their day. From what we have seen the women also tend the fields, and carry the babies.

We head to The Hole-in-the-Wall just south of Coffee Bay for a few days at the coast. As it’s still Summer holidays finding accommodation is very tight but we manage to get a self catering room for a few nights.

The “Wild Coast” of the Transkei is a very special place for us. Beautiful green rolling hills and steep valleys leading down to an indigenous coastal forest. A walk through the forest brings you to golden sandy beaches between rocky outcrops. The sea here is refreshing without being cold and the surf is fun to play in for hours.

Interesting set up here. We are staying in a compound sealed off from the rest of the “world” behind barbed wire, fences, gates, and guards. It keeps all the white people in and all the black people out. A huge change from the 80’s when the whites kept the blacks behind barbed wire in townships. Yet an other twist to the on going South African saga that I find so interesting, puzzling, and complex.

Addo Elephant Park;

This is our fourth visit to Addo over a period of 15 years. It’s a great park as most of the parks in the South African Parks System are. Our first day was like many I’ve had in Parks in Southern Africa we saw very little game. A cold front had swing up from the Cape and it was cold and windy, I think the Elephants were all snuggled up together playing cards around the campfire.

I did have a moment of panic in the Park when for the second time in the same day the rental car refused to start. The first time I thought it was something going on with the immobilizer and car alarm system, which seemed to sort itself out. The second time we were deep in the Park at a hide when it refused to start again. We tried our earlier ploy of leaving the car for a while and trying to start it again but nothing happened, not even the warning lights came on. Ignoring all the warning “Never get out of your car in the Park” I got out of the car and lifted the hood. Both battery terminals were loose, in fact I easily removed them from the terminal posts. As all of you know you should never leave home without ……. No not an American Express Card…. A Leatherman. Which I just so happened to have in one of the bags in the car. The problem was I didn’t know which one, so I had to unpack the whole car in the middle of the Park to find the thing. With the handy dandy tool I fixed the problem in no time and we were back on our way.


Do you think Leatherman will pay me vast sums of money to use this story in one of their advertisements?

Again accommodation is very tight but we manage to book into the Avoca River Cabins www.gardenroute.co.za/addo/avoca an amazing place right on the banks of the Sundays River, very restful apart from the mosquitoes (make a note to bring mozi nets on all your travels).

Our second day at Addo was one of those African days you remember your whole life, and a story that grows with each telling. Mariah, our daughter, is into creating lists and keeping tally of things, and on this day she decided to keep track of all of the animals we saw. Here is her list:
Elephants 152
Red Hartebeest 22
Black-Backed Jackal 2
Ostrich 40
Blue Crane 2
Zebra 28
Warthogs 73
Bokmakierie 1
Cape Buffalo 1
Kudu 26
Eland 33
Vervet Monkeys 7
Black Headed Herons 4
Flightless Dung Beetles Too many to count!

A really special moment was when we saw a group of four females protecting a 3 hour old calf. It was being shaded from the sun by the adults and the mother was helping the calf to it’s feet so it could suckle.

From here South again to Hog’s Back
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Plattenburg Bay. 1/10/07

South again to Plattenburg Bay. 1/10/07

Starting out this section of the journey we are in a mixed high velt type vegetation zone with thorn trees, plus a little Karoo Desert flowering Aloes. As we head south and the closer we get to the coast it transitions to the Fynbos more typical of the Cape region. I think Fynbos is Fine Bush in English and botanically it represents a complete plant kingdom. The Protea is the best know example of a flowering Fynbos, but Fynbos ranges from grasses to small bushes. Bunches of Fynbos are sold on the roadside in the same manner bunches of flowers are, wonderfully colorful with lots of different textures. As we drive we see whole mountain sides turned pink with the flowering Fynbos.

Plattenburg Bay is the southern edge of the weather system dominating Southern Africa. The weather comes in from the Indian Ocean to the East bringing the summer rains. The rain shadow behind the mountains results in the Karoo Desert and further west the dry Namibian Desert. Further South from Platt. the weather is dominated by weather systems coming in from the Antarctic and the South West. The rains come in the winter and the summers are hot and dry. The transition between the two is very short going from very green to brown in a short distance.

In this mix of the two weather systems is the Garden Route and we are visiting during the peak holiday season. Early in the mornings we can see small pods of humpback dolphins swimming just beyond the surf. Grant who runs the guest house we are staying at tells us the dolphins mass in the thousands for communal hunting out deeper in the bay and will stay in larger pods of a few hundred when they return before finally dispersing into smaller family groups.

A pod of 6 Orcas visited the bay and trapped the dolphins between them and the shore herding them south. 2 females and 2 juveniles did the herding while the two males lay in wait by the river mouth. The males killed 4 dolphins for the pod to feed on before moving off. Afterward the dolphins dispersed and left the bay for a few days.

Keurboomstrand, beach in front of the guest house has a wicked rip tide and crashing shore break, so swimming in the sea is out. Can’t say I’m too upset a friend of a friend was eaten by a shark here 5 years ago, all they found was his board with a big bite taken out of it.

We head to the National Park at Stormsriver’s mouth. There is a wonderful walk through the coastal forest to a suspension bridge over the river. Afterwards we cool down in the sea and do the snorkeling trail. There is a whole array of fish close to the rocky shore and outcrops. The water is still relatively warm and the colorful fish keep us in the water for a few hours. I’m still thinking shark in the back of my mind but the fun of seeing all the fish keeps it from spoiling the occasion.

A few days after snorkeling at Stormsriver I was talking to a friend about our wonderful experience and he told me the last time he was there he saw the greatest number of sharks congregated in one area that he has ever seen!!! Think statistic I say. You are more likely to be killed by a falling coconut than by a shark. If only they had made the film “Coconuts” instead of “Jaws” I would rest easier.

Over the next few days we visit the local bird sanctuary and monkey sanctuary. I’m not so certain about how I feel about going to these places as all the animals are exotics that have been rescued from homes and zoos. But thee santuaries are well run and the trips are educational. Mariah our daughter loves animals and enjoys both sanctuaries, so maybe it’s all worth it.

On the last morning at Platt. we take Mariah to an Elephant Sanctuary. I’m torn about this decision. I really don’t like zoos, and the sanctuaries seem like an open plan zoo in some ways. She spends an hour on the educational tour, learning about elephants and walking along holding an elephant’s trunk. At the end she takes a 15 min. ride on the back of a young male juvenile. Her conclusion at the end of it all was; she wouldn’t do it again, it wasn’t that exciting. So no earth shaking transformations there!

It’s 600 klm to Cape Town and we decide to drive straight through.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Someone stole the car.

We had a wonderful weekend just South of Cape Town. Moved over to Muzenburg yesterday afternoon at 3.00pm. By 7.00pm that night our rental car had been stolen!

Lots of form filling with the Police that evening. Today we picked up a new car, bigger and better, and we have wheels again!

We had unpacked most of our belonging from the car so our losses were not total. For once we had full insurance on the car and travel insurance to cover our health and belongings.

Hopefully this will be a one off thing.

Martyn
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Swimming with the Dolphins

BajaTaco said:
Martyn, I just now found this thread of yours. I had no idea you went to Africa. Sounds like a fabulous trip so far! I'm interested to hear more about your swim with the dolphins.

Take care and keep sending us updates :wavey:

Swimming with the Dolphins;

I finally got my “Swimming with the Dolphins” pictures back. As you can see they are not contestants for National Geographic awards, but it’s difficult to see what your doing with a mask on underwater with a waterproof Instamatic.

We went out each morning at 6.30am and did a beach launch into the bay. We managed to locate the Dolphins quickly every time we went out, which was a blessing for those of us who suffer from sea sickness.

After locating the pods the researchers had the boat stand off a little while they plotted their location, number of dolphins in the group, took pictures of their dorsal fins, and observed their behavior. If it looked like they wanted to interact one of the researches would enter the water to see if they wanted to “play”.

The boat maxed out at 12 people so we were usually dropped in groups of 4 ahead of the dolphins so they were swimming toward us. The dolphins then had a choice to avoid us or come and check us out.

On most occasions they choise to come and have a look at us. Before you saw the dolphins you’d hear the fast clicking from their sonar. It would get louder and louder and it was almost like you could sense them registering you and checking you out. The clicking was accompanied by their squeaks and pips. As they got really close the noises became quite busy.

It was amazing to swim with the dolphins in their world, out in the open ocean. A few times I could hear intense noise from the dolphins and almost feel their echo location but couldn’t see them. One time I turned my head to the left and two dolphins were swimming right next to me close enough so I could have touched them (not encouraged). It’s an interesting experience to look right into their eye.

The whole experience of swimming with the dolphins was very positive and enjoyable. Something that we would do again.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Cape Town 1/24/07

Spending time in our old stomping grounds in Cape Town. It’s been 5 years since we were last here so we are catching up with old friends and visiting old haunts. The place is very much the same as we remember except more expensive!


I have spent some time visiting the local 4X4 shops to see what they are offering. The thing that amazes me is the variety of goods they have in one shop and the volume of business they are doing. For example I visited the Safari Center just outside Cape Town where they carry 2 major brands of Off Road trailers, Engle, WAECO, and National Luna fridges, a big selection of battery management systems, several brands of roof racks, bull bars, 2 brands of rooftop tents, 3 ranges of canvas ground tents, high lift jacks, recovery gear, jerry cans and carriers, along with all the camping gear you’d ever need.

Jeep is more than a vehicles here in South Africa it’s also a clothing store chain. You can get all your Jeep branded clothing here. I see some Jeeps on the road here but far more people wearing the branded clothing!
 

BajaTaco

Swashbuckler
Martyn, thanks for posting the dolphin pics and words. Incredible! So that is the trick, eh? Get yourself ahead of their direction of travel and let them choose. Cool.

Sorry to hear about the car :smilies27

Funny thing about the Jeep clothes. hehehe
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Comet and Culture 1/18/07

(Tried to post this earlier but had technical problems)

Mc Naught Comet / District 6

Spent a few evenings on the West Coast watching the sunsets and then looking at Mc Naught’s comet. A most amazing sight, a classic comet right out of the story books, a bright concentrated head with a classic long trailing tail. I did a most non scientific test to determine that the comet took up 1/6th of the sky. I later found out that these things are measured in “Moon diameters” and have brightness scales. All that said it was a fantastic sight to behold. If you want to read more about the comet or look at the pictures of it there is lots of information here: http://www.nightskyhunter.com/Comet Mc Naught Gallery.html

We tried to visit Robbin Island, the island prison off the coast of Cape Town where Mandela spent part of his imprisonment, but the trip has become very popular and it’s booked from now until next month. We spent a few hours in the District 6 Museum instead, http://www.districtsix.co.za/frames.htm. It’s a tribute to an area in Cape Town that was demolished in the late 60’s early 70’s. District 6 fell victim to the Group Area’s Act, as a racially mixed area it did not fit nicely into the separation of the races concept.

Probably more to the point District 6 covered a nice piece of real estate that was close to the downtown and needed to be developed into a “Whites” only area. The inhabitants were issued eviction notices and removed to the Cape Flats, a less attractive piece of real estate miles from anywhere, full of sand and fleas.

District 6 produced some of the culturally most vibrant South Africa, jazz music, writers, poets, and actors. The sad cream on the top of this cake is that after demolishing the area very little was done with it. Most of it is still open area that has never been redeveloped. Since the advent of full democracy original owners and their families have been able to claim back their land, seek compensation, or donate their land to the District 6 Land Trust.

This poem was written on a tile inset into the floor of the museum. It still rings true 56 years after it was written:

“Where the Rainbow Ends”

There’s going to be a place, brother,
Where the world can sing all sorts of songs
And we’re going to sing together, brother,
You and I, though you’re white and I’m not
It’s going to be a sad song, brother
Because we don’t know the tune,
And it’s a difficult tune to learn.
But we can learn, brother, you and I.
There’s no such tune as a black tune.
There’s only music, brother
And it’s music were going to sing
Where the rainbow ends.

Richard Rive 1951
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Surfing RSA 1/20/07

(again posted late due to problems)

Surfing RSA

I’ve been trying to interest my daughter in surfing for a few years now, it’s something I did as a youth, it’s fun, I wanted to pass the experience along, but she never wanted to do it. Lots of reasons for not doing it, most of them revolving around being eaten by a shark. I must agree that being shark bait isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, so I didn’t push surfing very much.

Staying at a friend’s house just south of Cape Town in Muizenburg we had a panoramic view of False Bay. You can get an idea of the property and views at; http://www.wheretostay.co.za/beachhousemountain/ and Joel’s house which is just above it is also very nice http://www.wheretostay.co.za/bluebayview/.

We could see the waves lining up and speeding toward the shore carrying surfers, the size of ants in the distance, to the shore. She wanted to find out more so we went to the beach to check them out. Next thing she was taking a lesson at Gary’s Surf School www.garysurf.com and was riding waves within an hour.

I rented a board and wetsuit and off we went, father and daughter surf team! She can get from prone on the board to her feet in one quick movement, I in sedate middle age prolong the experience by going from stomach to knees to feet in a few shuffling unbalanced moves. Once on my feet I can rely on muscle memory and cut the wave and ride it toward the shore. Thank god for cunning in old age!

As a side note False Bay, the body of water we were surfing in, is relatively warm due to the influx of water from the Indian Ocean side. It also plays host to a large population of Great White Sharks, and has the reputation for being the place where the most shark attack occur. So here we are surfing with the sharks. The good news is they have instigated a Shark Watch Program where shark spotters watch for sharks from vantage points. Green flag no sharks, Black flag bad visibility no sharks spotted, If a shark is spotted they sound a horn and people leave the water. Green or Black flag everyday we surfed.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Cape of Good Hope

(Late again, sorry, next time I'll use smoke signals to pass messages on).

Cape of Good Hope

Cape Town is fortunate to have a National Park in it's own back yard with beautiful coast lines, hiking and bike trails, sea life, baboons, puff adders, and Cape Cobras.

On the way down to the Cape we stop to check out the windsurfers. These guys are world class, sailing in heavy winds and riding 6 foot waves on the way in and wave jumping on the way out. What a wonderful sport if your good at it.

The baboons are trolling the area looking for food. They are completely used to humans and will approach very close if your not watching out. I saw an apple stolen from the hand of an 8 year old as they were walking along. They also like to sit on the roof of cars to get a good vantage point.

One of the most amusing things to see, if it's not happening to your car, is to see a baboon find a locked car with a half open window. After getting inside to look for food the motion inside the car sets off the security alarm. The terrified baboon bounces round and around the inside of the car peeing everywhere before finding the open window and make an exit. I find myself wishing this fate on the people I see who are feeding the baboons by hand.

Bus loads of people disembark at the Cape to have their picture taken at the demarcation sign. Less than 1% venture up the steep path and steps to get a view of the ocean beyond and the lighthouse. You almost have the whole place to yourself. There is a wonderful path between the Cape and the lighthouse no more than a mile or two, 1% of the 1% take this hike. Here at the end of the continent is Dyers Beach it's a steep hike down and back up but worth every drop of sweat. The end of the world to yourself, on a golden sandy beach, it's an experience you won't get on any run of the mill package tour.
 
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Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Back in the USA 2/4/07

This post is on time and current!

Back in the USA

Well the trip is finally over. 7 weeks of absolute pleasure. We are suffering from jet lag after two 11 hour flights, Johannesburg-London-San Francisco. Waking up at 3.00am isn’t so bad I keep telling myself.

It’s a big jump to leave summer and head back straight into winter. From 100 ‘F to 33’F (and that was inside the house!).

Let me know if you want me to post links to all the places we stayed at, that we would like to stay at again.

Well it’s back to work. Mario changed the bylaws of Adventure Trailers when I was away. It’s now compulsory for all owners and employees to take at least 7 weeks vacation a year. We will be advertising for volunteer employees to pick up all the slack that results! Anyone looking for work? The pay is bad, but man the vacations are good.
 

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