Sport cage painting
- Thread starter Steve Curren
- Start date
Steve Curren
Explorer
Thanks, it sure is hotter than Hades in the garage today, working on the cage as well as the gauges..
Well, as for the angle I can't really tell because I have not really driven it. Getting in and out is OK and I discover that the lower cross bar will be a perfect place to mount the gauge pod.
A few bottles of water and gotta brush the dog and I am back to it.
Well, as for the angle I can't really tell because I have not really driven it. Getting in and out is OK and I discover that the lower cross bar will be a perfect place to mount the gauge pod.
A few bottles of water and gotta brush the dog and I am back to it.
XXXpedition
Explorer
looks very good.
and it seems that you have a great area (below the handle next to the vent) to mount your mirrors when you take the doors off ;-)
and it seems that you have a great area (below the handle next to the vent) to mount your mirrors when you take the doors off ;-)
Steve Curren
Explorer
I sure could mount some mirrors where you suggested, just have to stop the rain here.
Finished the install, pays to read the instructions over and over and then refer to them often. I got parts assembled to quickly and missed steps so I am now an expert at installation having done almost three installs on one cage.
I have pictures of the finished product, I mounted my CB and am in the process of deciding where to put the Lowrance. I ran enough wire to the center bar to take care of more 12 volt items if needed. I also mounted the oil pressure gauge on the lower cross bar and last night I hooked up the power and WOW it has juice..
Steve
Finished the install, pays to read the instructions over and over and then refer to them often. I got parts assembled to quickly and missed steps so I am now an expert at installation having done almost three installs on one cage.
I have pictures of the finished product, I mounted my CB and am in the process of deciding where to put the Lowrance. I ran enough wire to the center bar to take care of more 12 volt items if needed. I also mounted the oil pressure gauge on the lower cross bar and last night I hooked up the power and WOW it has juice..
Steve
Steve Curren
Explorer
Oops, no pictures...
Steve Curren
Explorer
More pictures.
RunninRubicon
Adventurer
Cool roll cage
Installation efforts paid off, Steve. Looks great. Cross-bar over the dash is nice and yet very functional. I like to the bolt on joints.
Installation efforts paid off, Steve. Looks great. Cross-bar over the dash is nice and yet very functional. I like to the bolt on joints.
Steve Curren
Explorer
Thanks Joe, I used the lower bar for the Lowrance mounting. Be seeing you soon, I will bring the parts Tuesday.
RunninRubicon
Adventurer
Suspension Ready?
Did you obtain your lift yet? If so, are we tossin it on this week as well as running to Rice pt? :jumping:
Did you obtain your lift yet? If so, are we tossin it on this week as well as running to Rice pt? :jumping:
Steve Curren
Explorer
I did the lift last week on Wednesday. Now it feels a little better when I have to step up to get in. I had fun with the electric disconnects..
RunninRubicon said:
Rock Hard 4X4 makes these. Powder coating would make installation problematic because of those joints, which are machined from billet and fit the tubing very tightly. The cage in my CJ-7 was primed with rust fixative then painted with hi-temp ceramic header paint, low-gloss black, back in the winter of 2002-2003 and is still hanging in there with no rust issues, even though shipped overseas twice, rolled twice, and otherwise abused. The cage recently installed in my early CJ-5 I simply primed with rust fixative, which turns black when dry. I am going to leave it like that unless or until it becomes a problem.
If you want to try doing a custom cage, Lewis at Rock Hard will sell the machined joints for the DIY crowd. I used them to build the tire carrier on the back of the CJ-7.
Steve Curren
Explorer
Sounds like the Rock Hard products are around to stay.I used a bedliner spray and I know what you mean about tight tolerances, I am happy with the cage and hopefully will never have to find out how sturdy it is. I am also looking at the rear bumper from them, it looks sturdy as well as it will stay open off camber and you can add items to it.
RunninRubicon
Adventurer
rollcage joints
I suppose having the ability to disassemble a roll-cage has merit, however the thought of having a welded joint protecting me vs a tightly bolted joint has merit as well. I suspect this would be ONE thought that would be racing through my mind if ever I were to roll over. All I have to say is "God bless Poison Spider cages!"
If ever I have to remove it I will use a saws-all and then weld it back together when the change or removal need is done.
I suppose having the ability to disassemble a roll-cage has merit, however the thought of having a welded joint protecting me vs a tightly bolted joint has merit as well. I suspect this would be ONE thought that would be racing through my mind if ever I were to roll over. All I have to say is "God bless Poison Spider cages!"
If ever I have to remove it I will use a saws-all and then weld it back together when the change or removal need is done.
Steve Curren
Explorer
I agree that a welded in one is probably a bit stouter but lacking the skills and equipment I fall back on the good old bolt in one. I for one am going to be doing a whole lot less crawling around and more trail riding, must be getting older.
Having twice rolled the CJ-7 with the Rock Hard cage, without shifting any joints or bending any cage elements, I disagree. Go ahead and try to shift one of the bolted joints. The billet ends are welded to the tubes at the factory -- then the billet ends are bolted around the joining tubing where intersecting tubes meet. There is nothing wimpy or inadequate about this method of building a cage. Actually, taking one of the joints apart after it has been torqued in place requires a very large hammer because of the tight tolerance of billet to tube, even when all 6 bolts have been removed entirely. Even the end caps won't fall off and have to be driven off the tube.
Most of your vehicle is bolted together, but that doesn't generally present cause to pause. Your suspension is bolted together, but works just fine. The clamp force of the billet joint is incredible, and won't break along a weld, as a mitered, welded joint can under stress if not properly done. The Rock Hard cage can be assembled inside the vehicle and there is no welding splatter to damage the interior. Minor fitment adjustments are possible to accommodate the vehicle, which can only be done with a welded cage if it is fitted and welded in place. The Rock Hard can also be removed if needed (when you sell the car for example), which a welded-in cage generally can not.
Keep in mind the vehicle into which this particular cage is being installed. From the photos it does not look like a gutted out dedicated rock buggy or bare-bones trail racer, so the bolt-in cage may well be the best choice on the market if the interior of the vehicle is to be left as is, and not damaged in the process.
At any rate, the cage is more than sufficiently strong for sporting purposes, served me very well in racing conditions in the Outback and elsewhere, and I have no complaints. I would venture to say that the bolted billet joints are every bit as strong as a mitered weld joint, if not stronger because there is no distortion or tempering changes which arise from arc welding on chrome-moly tube.
Most of your vehicle is bolted together, but that doesn't generally present cause to pause. Your suspension is bolted together, but works just fine. The clamp force of the billet joint is incredible, and won't break along a weld, as a mitered, welded joint can under stress if not properly done. The Rock Hard cage can be assembled inside the vehicle and there is no welding splatter to damage the interior. Minor fitment adjustments are possible to accommodate the vehicle, which can only be done with a welded cage if it is fitted and welded in place. The Rock Hard can also be removed if needed (when you sell the car for example), which a welded-in cage generally can not.
Keep in mind the vehicle into which this particular cage is being installed. From the photos it does not look like a gutted out dedicated rock buggy or bare-bones trail racer, so the bolt-in cage may well be the best choice on the market if the interior of the vehicle is to be left as is, and not damaged in the process.
At any rate, the cage is more than sufficiently strong for sporting purposes, served me very well in racing conditions in the Outback and elsewhere, and I have no complaints. I would venture to say that the bolted billet joints are every bit as strong as a mitered weld joint, if not stronger because there is no distortion or tempering changes which arise from arc welding on chrome-moly tube.