Steel Wheels Vs Aluminum Wheels

[SOAZ]

Well, I guess I'm questioning those American Racing wheels. 23lbs... that's about what my car wheels weigh in a 16x7. IIRC. It's been a long time, but I believe all my wheels are over 20lbs. I avoided the ones under 20. So, you're basically talking about running wheels on your truck that are the same weight as car wheels.

Now, I know that weight has little direct correlation to strength. But, with nothing else to base our decisions on, I look at the weight, and just a gut feel. I buy affordable, good reputation wheels that are not marketed as being light weight. I avoid wheels that are affordable and light weight, and it's served me well. Now, light weight and expensive (=forged), that's another matter.

That's why I tend to stick to used OEM wheels for the truck. They are strong and cheap, if ugly. I can live with ugly, because they're going to get damaged offroad anyway.

I used to be a vehicle engineer (powertrain, not suspension) but am friends with an engineer at an OEM, who's a truck suspension guy.

I've been meaning to ask, what exactly are you guys doing to bend wheels anyway? Are you driving fast and hitting rocks? Just curious, because with that much sidewall, and the speeds I travel, I just can't imagine bending one?

I've bent many a rim racing. Thats because we are racing and driving completely too fast so when the tire hits a rock that the size of a bowling ball it works fine 9 out of 10 times. On the 10th, the tire blows so there is no resistance and then smashes the rim on the rock and the rim is now bent.

I'm not worried about bending or braking any rims I have on my personal truck. Thats not the question! The thing I'm interested in is efficiency. With the factual discussion Redline is able to bring to looking at different tires I'm hoping someone who has the time and knowledge can shed some light on the different weights of wheels and how it affects efficiency, performance etc.

The Outlaw II may be a light tire, but its also one of the strongest. Its a simple old wheel with no frills. It was the wheel of choice for trophy trucks before there was a trophy truck class or special trophy truck wheels made. I agree 23lbs is light. Thats one of the reasons I like them.

Anyone know of any factual tests regarding wheels and wheel weight?

 

[Sleeping Dog]

Reparing alum wheels

There is actually a place in Tucson (the name escapes me right now...they are on the s/w corner of Alvernon and Irvington IIRC) that repairs aluminum wheels. That is the mainstay of their business. Their most common repairs are either wheels like mine which have been rubbed against so many rocks that they no longer have a lip to attach balance weights to, or expensive wheels damaged in collisions. They also powder coat...so they may be a option for you Jonathan, if you really want those black wheels on your 40....

Their website is http://www.nuwheel.com/index.html. It appears that they will only repair damage on the outer lip, which is not what my (sometimes feeble) mind remembered from the newspaper article on them a year or two ago). Their site also does not show anything about powder coating on site....again, I'm pretty sure the article in the paper said they do.....

A metallurgist will tell you that you can't repair an aluminum wheel, yes it can be returned to shape, but the molecular structure of the metal will have been damaged and the wheel will be structurally suspect. That is probably the reason they only repair the outer edge, that is not a stressed area and therefore not susceptible to causing wheel failure

Jim

 

[ntsqd]

A weld, any weld in any metal, is an on-site casting. If the wheel is an alloy casting then there is no hugely significant change assuming no post machining heat treat was done during it's mfg. Steel wheels are welded together at a critical point. There is not best solution to that argument.

If it was an alloy forging then why did you bend it? If you're determined to try to save it I'd highly suggest trying it in the old Navy Flotation Test. Huck it into the nearest large body of water. If it floats it's still good - go and get it back.

For me it comes down to ride quality. Steel sucks in this aspect. By the time a steel wheel is made light enough to compare with an ordinary alloy wheel it has no place being off road unless it's on a dirt oval.
I switched from steel wheels and 33-10.50 BFG M/T's to alloy wheels and 33-10.50 BFG A/T's and the large improvement in ride quality means that I've no interest in steel wheels for anything that I take on off road trips. None.

 

[threepiece188]

It seems to be common in this thread to use the word alloy when refering to aluminum. I thought some of you (perhaps not all) would like to know that alloy is not an acronym for aluminum but a word itself. The meaning of alloy is a solid solution of two or more metals. These can be any metal, copper, lead, gold, steel, aluminun ect. that can be disolved or mixed together. The steel wheels you are talking about are quite likeley alloy as well.
Dan.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Steel is an alloy just as aluminum or zinc wheels are an alloy. No one would want to use rim made of a pure metal. In the context of most automotive discussions it is usually assumed that "alloy" referes to an aluminum or sometimes zinc based component. Like when you go to a restaurant and order a "coke".
Jason T.

 

[offroad_nomad]

+1 for Wheelers.

I added a set of the Black Steelies - Type B. I've always had great service from them.

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/toyblackalloys.htm

Wheelers is a quality supplier with good service and resonable prices.

 

[Mrknowitall]

My personal preference is Steel, though I wouldn't go buying new steelies, just because a truck I bought had alloys. I like the non-bling aspect. I've also cracked alluminum wheels- right down the center of the rim. I managed to get the crack TIG'ed, tire back on, and I never looked back. Stock aluminum wheels might be cheap to get, but OE steel wheels can be even cheaper. With newer hub-centric arrangements, steel wheels are less likely to jamb and go on crooked. Hammering back a wheel lip is a bonus. Lug-nuts can be bothersome on some aluminum wheels, too.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Some FYI for steel wheels 3/4 and 1 ton

If running any hi-cap 3/4 or 1 ton vehicle make sure you use the right steel wheels too.

While a wheel may have 8 lug holes it may not be up to the task on a heavy capacity vehicle.

GM for instance uses on heavy capacity 3/4 and 1 tons steel wheels w/rivets instead of welded attachment points for wheel to wheel center attachment, they have identification letter/number codes next to the valve stem opening. Cost is easily 3 times of aftermarket steely.

However, any quality wheel-smith can build hi-cap steely wheels that are welded.

The ability to repair a steely in the field with a body repair hammer and hand anvil if needed far outweighs justification of any other material on an expedition vehicle.

Cast aluminum wheels are for mall crawlers IMHO

Forged alloys are a good choice if you have deep pockets and keep 2 or more spares.

 

[Mark Harley]

I run steel GM rims from a one ton van.
The rims are heavy but have held up well on my 2002 GMC 2500HD crew cab
Painted gloss black they are easy to maintain and look ok.

 

[Every Miles A Memory]

Our 2003 F-250 had stock 8-Lug Steel wheels on it. Driving down the HWY at 75mph and had a complete tire blow-out. I was in the left lane towing a utility trailer so I had to ride on the rim for quite a ways before I could change 3 lanes and pull over to the right.

Rim was a total loss.

Searched around on Craigslist till I found a set of Take-Off's - Found a set of Stock Ford Aluminum 8-Lug rims for $400!!!

Even the guys at the tire shop who were swapping out the old steel wheels with the new aluminum ones couldn't believe how much lighter the aluminum ones were. You practically blew out a few back discs lifting the steel wheels into the bed of the truck, where you could lift the aluminum ones up without even thinking about it

UPDATE: We've put a few tanks of fuel through the truck now with the aluminum rims and tires mounted (235/85/R16) Our old tires were 265/75/R16 - We never were able to break the 400 miles per tank with the original rims and tires. Since we've made the switch, ever tank has got us over the 400 mile mark. Just barely, but the wife and I have both noticed on our Scan Gauge that we're averaging 20mpg rather than the normal 14-16mpg.

I'm not sure if it's the aluminum wheels or the taller tires, but I'm sold on the aluminum wheels strictly for how much lighter they are when it comes to changing them. I figure I always have a full size spare, so I'm not that worried about being stranded out on the road.

I also seem to remember someone posting a stat on this forum that there is no where in the United States where you are more than 100 miles from a McDonalds or something like that??? I figure my spare can get me to the local Mickey D's where I can wait for a new rim to arrive :victory:

 

[FellowTraveler]

Hello their, very little difference in tire diameter of tires you listed any gains would be more from narrow contact patch. I've noticed gains with tall/narrow tires when the tread pattern is not aggressive.

The newer lower rolling resistance tires "LRR" marketed these days seem to work well in returning better mpg (s) don't know how they'd perform off road.

 

[Every Miles A Memory]

My new tires are dedicated to road travel only, but we didnt see any off-road trips in the near future, so I figured when we're ready to head back on the road, I'll move back to a more aggressive tread.

While traveling, we rarely tackle anything that is considered rough or aggressive. Think more two tracks, some deep sand and maybe the occasional mud section or water crossing, but nothing that would warrant a bead-lock or tire designed for serious off-road.

 

[Redline]

Hello their, very little difference in tire diameter of tires you listed any gains would be more from narrow contact patch. snip...

x2, the difference in diameter between the 238/85 and 265/75 is negligible for most tires.

However, the combined improvement of a narrower tire and a lighter wheel/tire combination can make a noticeable difference in MPG.

 

[98dango]

Late to the game but here is what I know. Quality will win every time. I have had cheap steel wheels bend very easy and had good stock and aftermarket alloy hold up. Look at the outer bead and how solid the wheel is made.