Still New To Me Gen 3 Won't Start

[2to4wheels]

Need Some Help!!! I have a 2006 Gen 3 that ran and started find as long as I've owned it (only 2 months). But last night when I was running out, I started it and it barely started, then it shook violently and idled rough for a about 5 seconds and then shut off. Then tried again and shuttered for 2 seconds. Then wouldn't start but would crank. Let it sit overnight and tried it again this morning and same thing. Both last night and tonight I definitely could smell a bunch of fuel almost like that was all I smelled. Anyone ever have this experience? I'm wondering if it's an O2 or other sensor since it definitely seems like it's getting fuel since the odor is prevalent.

 

[Michael Brown]

Has the battery been replaced or has it died recently?

Check all vacuum lines for the engine, make sure the throttle body is cleaned, and check the IAC unit for any issues. Sounds like it might be flooding the system.

Are you pressing the gas pedal when it is starting? This could add extra fuel to the chamber when it is not needed.

Also grab the FSM from my signature if you do not have one already.

 

[2to4wheels]

Has the battery been replaced or has it died recently?

Check all vacuum lines for the engine, make sure the throttle body is cleaned, and check the IAC unit for any issues. Sounds like it might be flooding the system.

Are you pressing the gas pedal when it is starting? This could add extra fuel to the chamber when it is not needed.

Also grab the FSM from my signature if you do not have one already.

Thanks. Battery has not die or been replaced recently and no, not putting my foot on the gas. This just annoying! Not what I wanted to wake up to but I guess this goes with buying a car with 140k miles

 

[Outdooraholic]

Make sure your MAF sensor is plugged in. That measures the air going in and tells the ECU how much fuel to spray. If it's not connected, or is bad, it will be harder to start, smell like gas, and run/idle terribly.

Had you worked on or messed with anything prior to this happening?

 

[2to4wheels]

Make sure your MAF sensor is plugged in. That measures the air going in and tells the ECU how much fuel to spray. If it's not connected, or is bad, it will be harder to start, smell like gas, and run/idle terribly.

Had you worked on or messed with anything prior to this happening?

I did change the timing belt a month ago so did have the MAF unplugged but hadn't had any symptoms until last night. On the facebook Montero group, one recommended I unplug the sensor and see if I can get it to start in limp mode.

 

[Outdooraholic]

I would check the timing belt asap. Make sure it's still tight and line up the marks to make sure it didn't skip a tooth. That could also be the cause, but it's not as easy of a fix because if the timing is off it can do some serious damage to the valve train. I hope it's something simpler, but I would verify the timing marks and tension on the belt before anything else.

 

[2to4wheels]

I would check the timing belt asap. Make sure it's still tight and line up the marks to make sure it didn't skip a tooth. That could also be the cause, but it's not as easy of a fix because if the timing is off it can do some serious damage to the valve train. I hope it's something simpler, but I would verify the timing marks and tension on the belt before anything else.

And the only way to do that is tear it down?

 

[normal_dave]

After confirming timing belt is still happy, and marks are still in the right place, take a read through this thread, beginning here, a few good tidbits for a new Montero owner, firing order, ignition control module testing, etc.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/159696-Replacing-Gen-3-Heads-(Like-a-Virgin)-Any-Recommendation?p=2109701#post2109701

Remember the basics first, confirm spark, fuel, air. FWIW, I was testing a coil pack on mine the other day, got in hurry, and tried to start it without a coil pack plugged in to the harness. It did start, but ran horribly and smelled of fuel, until I slapped myself in the forehead, and plugged the coil pack back in..."doh!"

 

[2to4wheels]

Would it not start though if it skipped a tooth? When my brother and I did it the first time, we were one tooth off and when I started it up, it had a nice tick so we shut it right down. Then tore it down and fixed and we were good.

 

[normal_dave]

For timing belt inspection, just pull the top covers from each side of the head, in front of the valve covers, turn the engine over by hand (gently please) to TDC on the crankshaft, using a breaker bar/socket. feel for resistance (i.e. piston to valve) there will be some resistance due to compression, but you can feel the difference by hand.

Look at the front of the cam sprocket for the timing marks to line up to the notch in the front of the valve cover. Remember they will only appear once every two crank rotations. If everything looks good, and the belt seems snug, I'd look elsewhere.

 

[2to4wheels]

For timing belt inspection, just pull the top covers from each side of the head, in front of the valve covers, turn the engine over by hand (gently please) to TDC on the crankshaft, using a breaker bar/socket. feel for resistance (i.e. piston to valve) there will be some resistance due to compression, but you can feel the difference by hand.

Look at the front of the cam sprocket for the timing marks to line up to the notch in the front of the valve cover. Remember they will only appear once every two crank rotations. If everything looks good, and the belt seems snug, I'd look elsewhere.

Thanks everyone. I'm familiar with the process. Just wasn't hoping to go there since it's still a few hours work. I guess to good part of this all is if the timing did jump, which I struggle with since it was running fine when I shut it off 3 hours later, it's sitting in my driveway going 0 mph and didn't do it at speed.

 

[2to4wheels]

Does anyone know the easiest ways to get the cam covers off without taking the accessory plate off? I've gotten the drivers side, but the passenger side won't slide out as easily and it looks like I need to at a minimum loosen the the accessory plate which I was hoping not to. I want to check the timing before exploring other options per everyone's suggestions. Not that this is an indicator, but checking the resistance on the belt with the driver's side, it still seems pretty tight so hoping this isn't the issue.

Also, once I get the cam covers off and I can get to the crank bolt, I can hand cycle the engine in hopes my cam marks lines still line up but how will I be able to see the cam mark at TDC. Do I need to tear it all down (accessory drives etc.)? Or is there a way I can do this without that?

 

[alex9528]

Just want to help you out, can you ask the the shop that did your timing belt what part they use- anything they replace in that job should be OE or else it will not last 60k! also do an OBD scan see if something comes up.

 

[2to4wheels]

I did the timing belt job so I'm good with what parts were used.

I'm tempted to start chasing electrical culprits due to the circumstances. No symptons at all. Then parked in my driveway. Then all this happened 3 hours later when I went to start it up. Of course I'm terrified that it is a timing issue, but I honestly don't see how that could be unless it skipped timing on the start up in my driveway which I guess isn't impossible...

 

[evomaki]

No start - my guess NOT engine timing

I did the timing belt job so I'm good with what parts were used.

I'm tempted to start chasing electrical culprits due to the circumstances. No symptons at all. Then parked in my driveway. Then all this happened 3 hours later when I went to start it up. Of course I'm terrified that it is a timing issue, but I honestly don't see how that could be unless it skipped timing on the start up in my driveway which I guess isn't impossible...

This is just a guess, but my take is that it is not the timing of the engine top end to bottom. This thing was running fine then sat and would not run. I think most of the timing event issues I have heard about (not personally witnessed, yet, thank goodness) have a really noticeable issue while running, where little doubt is left This makes me think it is some sort of sensor/electrical. So many of these vehicles have had bonehead mechanics work on them over the years who just toss the wire retainer on those electrical connectors. Maybe some connector has slipped. Your issue is not running at all, vs. running like dog****. That makes me think electrical.

You said you smell fuel. Have you checked for spark? What kind of signal do the cam and crank sensors provide? Anyway to test for that? I think the FSM does have a decent troubleshooting guide.