Stretching a frame

[cjmitchell5]

Okay, it's getting late and I'm getting crazy thoughts again. So say you happen to have an 88" frame laying about. How much could you stretch it by adding to the flat section just forward of the part that curves up w/ the front hangers for the rear springs. I'm not concerned with body/tub implications, I'm thinking of a p/u cab and then getting a Ute LTd tray for the back like a hi-cap 110.

 

[Alaska Mike]

I don't have a figure for you, but I'm curious as to why someone would want to do it. The 88 frame has narrower mounting points for the rear springs, and lengthening would make the narrow width seem even more so.

As we're talking about a project that would have little value to a typical Rover snob, why not stick a Rover cab on a pickup chassis from a different marque that may offer a coil front suspension, power steering, a stronger frame, better engines/drivetrain...

Food for thought.

 

[ntsqd]

For the little that I know about these frames I agree with Mike.

Just for giggles though, setting those points aside I still don't see it as a practical idea. Attractive, but difficult to execute safely without it looking like a kludge. Would be better to either buy one the right WB (if available) or build one from scratch.

 

[Yorker]

the main frame rails are a different size 109 vs 88" so even if you were to get the wheelbase right you'd have a thinner potentially less robust frame. People, including Land Rover have been stretching/shortening frames for years though. Didn't Michael Slade stretch a frame for his truck?

You'd be better off to start with another chassis though, take a 109 and make a 127/130, or take a RRC and stretch that- something along those lines.

Then again what you propose probably isn't that different from those TJ's that are turned into little pickups... (Teal Brute comes to mind)

 

[cjmitchell5]

True, all good points. I got started on this idea because of craigslist. I saw an ad for a bare frame w/ parabolics and started thinking of what I could do w/ it. I started thinking toyota axles (also on craigslist) and I have a 240D that I bought just to do the engine conversion on my SIIa. So I started thinking, LR frame, Toy axles, MB engine and gearbox, divorced NP205 T'case. Purists would put out a bounty on me.

 

[4Rescue]

I can't answer your question, but I like the sound of your project idea... A ute bed with a Series P/U cab would be AWSOME IMO. But like Mike said, if you're going to all the trouble with the build why not get a good burly frame to start from?

Cheers

Dave

 

[ntsqd]

If you were thinking to tear apart a vehicle with history and pedigree I'd likely be right there with the purists.

As it sounds like you intend to put some vintage coachwork, that is lacking it's original chassis & drive train, back on the road I'll be cheering you on.

I think that a donor chassis that is both useful for the purpose and appropriate to the truck should be the main contender. Given the marque I've no clue what that might be.

 

[Michael Slade]

I did hear a tingle in my ear today...

I stretched the frame on the CrewCab by making identical profiles and section thicknesses, welding them the same as the original factory frame and even sleeved and plug welded the sections. THEN...as if that wasn't enough...strapped the whole frame front to back, top and bottom with 1/4 plate.

IMO you should start with a frame that is the length you want. Stretching is such a PITA. A 109 frame shouldn't be that hard to find I don't think if you like the leafs. If you like the coils, there are a million-bazillion RRC/Disco1 frames around, you just have to peel the truck off of the top.

A tray-back series truck cab would be the shizzle. Do it and post lots of pics so we can drool about the f-awesome truck you're building.

 

[Yorker]

I have a friend who has built LRs for years, he is now going to do something similar to your plan- though he is starting with a 109 chassis and going to make it a flatbed- maybe with a tipping bed. I'm still trying to convince him to stretch it a bit. It won't be a trail rig but a custom made substitute for an American 3/4 ton PU- tasked with all those things you'd use a PU for- snow plowing etc. He isn't starting with any good donor truck so he isn't wasting a nice project, he doesn't have to please any purists he just has to build it to suit what he needs. All in all it has been a fascinating project. Yours sounds like it will be similar so I guess I'll revise my original opinion and say - go for it! Look at all the neat trucks the Aussie's make- there are some really neat series based trucks out there with creative solutions to the drivetrain.

Michael- do you have a link to the build of your truck? I've tried to find it to send to my friend for inspiration.

 

[Michael Slade]

Here 'ya go...

How to spend a million dollars building what you want.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

THEN...as if that wasn't enough...strapped the whole frame front to back, top and bottom with 1/4 plate.

Wow...

I have shortened and fabbed up sections of frame, it is labor intensive. I would say starting with a LWB (considering the not-too-bad costs as well) is the way to go, especially if you can get a galvi frame. But anything can be done, again the question is whether it's worth it...

 

[abraded]

Here's a truck I've always liked. Not associated in any way and I swiped the photo off pirate. From what I was told it is similar to what you were contemplating--88" frame stretched to 100". Had a bunch of other mods too.

 

[Antichrist]

Back in the mid-60's some blokes in the UK stretched an 88 (not sure how much) and made it a 6x6. The then drove it throughout Africa, as I recall.
Of course, after they did the stretch they got some in person help from Land Rover and Girling.

 

[4Rescue]

Here 'ya go...

How to spend a million dollars building what you want.

That is one sweet project truck. I've poured over that build blog many a time. Aside from the Shivy motor and the SM465 I'd say it's about perfect eh.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Lumberjack]

Go For IT!

I stretched my TJ (heep) 15" last winter (I know not a LR but...) I had a blast doing the fab work. Total cost invested was about $800. As long as the frame has a straight section, cut there, add in disired length and hot glue gun it back together. Use fishplates if needed for strength. Lengthen brake, fuel, wiring and driveshaft.

It was a lot easier than I expected... here is the finished product:


Next plan is add 12-14" to rear to give it a pickup look and much needed storage.

Dennis