Stuck crankshaft pulley bolt

  • Thread starter Deleted member 144409
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nckwltn

Explorer
Verifying the starter method:

1. Crankshaft pulley holder against frame.

Question: I can only get it to rest next to one of the air filter mounts which is on the wheel well. Good or get it on the frame rail somehow?

FWIW i've never done the starter method, but I don't think you want the crankshaft pulley holder in use at all. The purpose of the pulley holder is to prevent the engine from rotating when trying to undo the bolt. You only want the socket (and perhaps breaker bar) on the crankshaft bolt.

You actually want the crankshaft to turn, and with the pulley holder in place the crankshaft won't turn.
 

jlocster

Explorer
Like nckwltn said, do not use the pulley holder against the frame to loosen the crank bolt with a bump start. Put a socket on the bolt, and wedge your breaker bar against the frame. I'd also pull the plug wires off of the coil packs/coil plug wire so the engine doesn't accidentally start running. Then you'll just briefly crank the engine, less than a second. Good luck!
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Definitely unplug something that makes it run, Power unit, coils or injector harness.
 
D

Deleted member 144409

Guest
...bolt broke...

I'M KIDDING! IT WORKED!

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Anyone want to hazard a guess as to how many times I had to crank it and reset the breaker bar?

Dios mio. Virtual beers from Colorado...and I'm going to the liquor store. Right after I order a new bolt!

Thanks again!

David
 
Nice work, I'll be doing this in the future. To be sure, you just put a socket on the crank bolt, then jammed the breaker bar somewhere on the frame, pulled some coil plugs and then cranked it for a split second? When you're looking straight at the crank pulley, which direction does it spin?
 
D

Deleted member 144409

Guest
I'll take a pic later if I have time.

In summary, the bolt removes left loosey, like normal. Either secure the breaker bar UNDER the driver side frame rail or ON the passenger side rail. I recommend under the drivers side since on the GEN1 the power steering hoses are over there and the bar WILL jump around. I taped the breaker bar (old bike seat post) to the wrench so it wouldn't slide off. I used a dead bicycle tube (reduce, reuse, recycle) to tie the bar to the frame. I guess you could tape the wrench to the bolt. Just make sure you don't flip the wrench rotation lever in the process.

I didn't get any offers on my quiz...it took 4 attempts to break it loose. From what I've read that's an outlier case.
 
D

Deleted member 144409

Guest
Here you go MummifiedCircuitry (I should get a better handle...).


Deleted incorrect pic. New pic later in thread...
 

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RyanY

Adventurer
That is backwards. The breaker bar needs to be sitting on top of the driver's side frame rail. The crankshaft pulley rotates clockwise when the engine is running.
 

jaccox23

Adventurer
Ryan is right. I braced mine on the underside of the passenger side, i also used a jack stand to keep its pressed to the frame rail so there was no whiplash. As for disconnecting things just pull the cam and crank season pig tails they are right on the top on the gen 2 and much easier than pulling 6 wires from the coils. It's a nerve racking process but its literally over in the blink of an eye and no swearing to the car gods is necessary unless it breaks, but if it breaks at least it's already halfway disassembled at this point rather than breaking on the road and shearing your crank gear and throwing timing off.
 
D

Deleted member 144409

Guest
I'm sure how mine worked then. Unless bike tubes tubes are that stout. Dum dum points to me but sacrificing the tape deck worked....
 

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