Subframe decisions...... :(

[dzzz]

Are you planning on just one bike? If there was two I would lean toward the use of a simple platform/cage that allowed you to load/unload both bikes ( or cargo ) all at the same time.

I think using a hydraulic ram to control the u-frame crane would be the best. I think if you limited the angles so the force on the frame was minimized you could get away with running a single ram on one side. The frame would have to be slightly stronger, but you would save a lot of complexity. A single hydraulic circuit with a spring loaded closed center valve would be pretty darn simple. That could be mounted out of the way under the bed in a little lock box.

...................

I don't think a cage changes the design, it could be an add-on.

The hydraulic control is already in the cabin by a joy stick Literally all it takes hardware-wise is pluging the line into quick disconnects. The parameters of the lines are set up on the control panel and it's good to go.
Is there any practical problem of controlling to rams on one circuit? It doesn't seem to me that dual rams on a front end loader have any special circuit balancing. Perhaps equal line length out of the manifold? Or is it more complicated?

 

[Ford Prefect]

I just had another idea that might work for you...

You could install, and it would not be very light, a lift on the side. One like you see on the rear of cargo trucks, with a platform that bi-folds and thus could hold the bike length wise when open, and fold and stow vertically when not in use. Then you could put a cage around the top and other side, thus allowing you to lock it up and maximize the storage space. Think a space like Doug Hackney's fuso, but with a nice lift "gate" on the side. (which if course you could use with hydraulics.)

I do not know what kind of weight you are looking at, but I bet it would be easy to do, and you could likely find parts for it more readily around the world than a personalized custom concept.

 

[Metcalf]

No, dual rams should balance themselves with a simple 'y' in the plumbing. Hose length shouldn't matter. Make sure to bleed the system correctly. The downside is the cost of the extra ram and hoses. You also have a few more failure points...more hoses, seals, and fittings.

You could also include metal to metal stops for the frame to keep from overextending, and it would keep the loads on the ram down...and maybe keep you from crushing the spare tire
Might also help with rattles if you can lock it down on something.

 

[mhiscox]

I don't have anything to add to the engineering of the storage space and its use for motorcycles, but I wonder if you might want to widen the platfom just a little to also make it suitable for carrying ATVs. Almost all ATVs are under 50 inches wide, as that is the maximum allowed on the ATV trails of many states. And a Polarais Ranger RTZ side-by-side is 50" wide (a Yamaha Rhino is 54.5).

Just a thought. :roost:

 

[dzzz]

I don't have anything to add to the engineering of the storage space and its use for motorcycles, but I wonder if you might want to widen the platfom just a little to also make it suitable for carrying ATVs. Almost all ATVs are under 50 inches wide, as that is the maximum allowed on the ATV trails of many states. And a Polarais Ranger RTZ side-by-side is 50" wide (a Yamaha Rhino is 54.5).

Just a thought. :roost:

An atv for me is pretty limited without road access. If a two passenger ATV could be licensed it would be a lot more interesting as a carried vehicle.

I wonder what is the lightest four wheel vehicle that can be licensed in the U.S. ?

 

[dzzz]

Hmmm...security if you add a side wall, flexibility (any type of load could be lifted & stored depending on the mission - including extra water tanks ), buy & bolt on installation, easier to over pack the storage area (mixed blessing...scary all the crap you could hang on the 2 walls). It would be an extra step to strap the bike/tire down on the gate so it can be lowered safely...a minor thing. You already have the hydraulics. I can't see a down side - maybe weight but I've seen them in aluminum. Don't laugh but...a big ready made table! I think it's a Good Idea.Peter

One of the reasons I like the vertical spare is that it partially blocks one side. The top of the spare is eight feet off the ground. I'll decide on the other side after I see how everything works. The back of the cab on a U500 has a lot of truck stuff, so I do need to keep a buffer space. I'm not sure how I will handle that. I will definitely look at a tie down system.

I do have a bit of an issue with the floor of the outside storage as I want it to be almost water proof and removable. A strong light synthetic would be best - 4' x 6.5'. Diamond plate would probably require multiple pieces and have leaky seams. Maybe diamond plate over a water tight synthetic is the way to go.

I can build the enclosed storage one of two ways - either as a sealed box, or a non water tight enclosure that holds battery boxes and espar in a sealed box.

 

[dzzz]

This is the basic idea I had in my head. Just a rough concept but I hope you get the idea....

An update: Were building this design but with one arm. The pivot side has a bar with two attachment points for strength.

The warn 20XL winch for the back looks very well made (and big).

 

[dzzz]

Here's a pic of the Alaskan Camper going on the truck

 

[grizzlyj]

Oldish thread so maybe done and dusted already? But,

The tyres on the back of my camper essentially sit on the rear bumper, against the back wall of the camper.

I have a 1 ton chain hoist, that using a ladder that I carry, I hook up to a lifting point on the back wall directly above each tyre.

Loosen the mounting bolts that hold the spare on sufficiently to get a 1 ton strap through the wheel centre and back up onto the hoist hook.

Just take the weight on the hoist, undo the securing bolts completely.Take a little more weight on the hoist so the tyre is just skimming the bumper, and while pulling on one side of the tyre with one hand, slightly lower it with the hoist.

You can pull it far enough out like this so that despite it hanging from a point behind the tyre (on the backwall), the lowest point on the tyre is slightly clear of the bumper.

You can then kinda wiggle the tyre while adjusting the hoist to lower it clear of the bumper, so it will then slide down the bumperface to the ground.

Loading is the reverse, helped if the tyre can be leaning on a guide from the bed side so it can slide right up.

The lifting point doesn't have to be directly above the tyre. My Mrs can do it, and she's not strong!

Just looking a the above sketch of the cool crane idea, as drawn the end of the crane arm being directly above the tyre you could do this too. The only issue is getting up to the crane arm and the slinging, which is only detail if you have a ladder.

Jason