Teardrop build...

[jeeper92]

Very nice

A couple of questions......
Where did you get the doors?
Any pics of how the door is secured?
Im getting the itch to build......I currently have a militry trailer with a rooftop tent moutned on it. Im loving the look of these tear drops. I have a plans drawn up for a much boxier one and a real aggressive look..jsut afraid i dont have the skill
Your build looks pretty simple. I was thinking of doing mine and then having it sprayed with rhino liner

 

[oz97tj]

A couple of questions......
Where did you get the doors?
Any pics of how the door is secured?
Im getting the itch to build......I currently have a militry trailer with a rooftop tent moutned on it. Im loving the look of these tear drops. I have a plans drawn up for a much boxier one and a real aggressive look..jsut afraid i dont have the skill
Your build looks pretty simple. I was thinking of doing mine and then having it sprayed with rhino liner

I got my doors from teardroptrailerparts.com. They slide in from the outside, and then a trim ring goes on the inside and basically just pinches it. Nothing actually gets screwed or mounted to the wall of the trailer. Very simple install.

As for the build, check out mikenchell.com. On the front page, there are some different styles with some nice drawings. Mine is mostly modeled after that the "Long Weekender". Straight walls would make it simple, but it's really not that much more difficult to to a curved wall, which I think personally looks better. With solid walls, just cut out the profile, cut strips for roof spars, then skin it with some thin flexible material.

As for Rhino liner, I've seen some Jeeps coated with it, and after some time it looks dirty and it hard to clean. It would be very tough though, so maybe that's ok for you.

 

[oz97tj]

This weekend was busy!!! Had a bachelor party where we went and helped homeless and then studied the bible... After some recovery time, got a bunch of work done.

I finished the wiring and tested everything and then installed the interior light.

Then started working on installing the switches. Seeing as I have solid walls, I routered out a pocket for the switches.

It wasn't quite deep enough for the wiring and the switches so I needed to create a spacer. A hole was drilled from the door to run the wires. There is a 3 way switch at both doors to control the interior light and there is a patio switch.

Finally got around to the hatch. I'll admit I was a bit nervous. Cutting the walls was stressful. There is no fixing a screw up there. Luckily, it worked out well.

The idea is there is a raised lip that will keep out any water.

Needs a little trimming still, but you can see where the seal will sit.

And this is with the rest of the stringers in. I messed with the latch for a while, but didn't take a photos. It still needs some stuff made to be functional.

Then the roof was skinned.

And finally, got a coat of epoxy on.

Will do a couple more coats of epoxy over the next few days.

 

[elmo_4_vt]

That's pretty awesome... Though your making it look a little too easy. As in, it's making me want to build one.

Thanks for taking to time to document the build so well.

Also, how will you seal the bottom of the walls where they overlap the steel trailer frame?

What are you planning on skinning it with?


Don

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[oz97tj]

That's pretty awesome... Though your making it look a little too easy. As in, it's making me want to build one.

Thanks for taking to time to document the build so well.

Also, how will you seal the bottom of the walls where they overlap the steel trailer frame?

What are you planning on skinning it with?


Don

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Thanks! Its really not that tough to build. You could do it.

The walls hang down over the frame on the sides. The bottom is all coated in epoxy and epoxy was even used as glue at the floor / wall joint. Im also thinking im going to spray the bottom of the trailer with undercoating to give a bit more protection.

It wont have a skin. Its all coated in epoxy, which is what wood boats use, so it should be plenty waterproof. Then it'll be topcoated with paint. Should be durable and easy to touch up after getting beat in the trail.

 

[java]

is that just masonite for the curved skin? how did that work out? think its tough enough?

 

[oz97tj]

is that just masonite for the curved skin? how did that work out? think its tough enough?

Yes. People use luaun, 1/4 plywood and this stuff regularly. Its 3/16 thick. Its also sitting on stringers that are no further than 14 inches apart. Many are half that due to the curve. I was leaning over it putting a bunch of weight on it while cutting the hole for re vent and didn't notice any deflection. Short of a large rock flying at the front of it and hitting between the stringers, I don't thin there would we're be a problem.

Its fairly tough, dense material. It just doesn't like being bent too far, requireing kerf cuts. That made working with it much nicer.

 

[java]

Yes. People use luaun, 1/4 plywood and this stuff regularly. Its 3/16 thick. Its also sitting on stringers that are no further than 14 inches apart. Many are half that due to the curve. I was leaning over it putting a bunch of weight on it while cutting the hole for re vent and didn't notice any deflection. Short of a large rock flying at the front of it and hitting between the stringers, I don't thin there would we're be a problem.

Its fairly tough, dense material. It just doesn't like being bent too far, requireing kerf cuts. That made working with it much nicer.

ive worked with masonite lots, but ive never seen it used on a tear. ill be interested to see how it holds up over time.

 

[oz97tj]

ive worked with masonite lots, but ive never seen it used on a tear. ill be interested to see how it holds up over time.

Me too! Lol. Keep in mind its nothing more than a skin and coated in epoxy so moisture wont ever get to it.

With your experience, are you thinking there will be issues?

 

[Zelix]

You build is looking great. It's really inspiring.

 

[java]

Me too! Lol. Keep in mind its nothing more than a skin and coated in epoxy so moisture wont ever get to it.

With your experience, are you thinking there will be issues?

im worried about holes.... we use it alot as a floor cover over carpet pad for construction work. if something heavyish get dropped it usually punches a hole.

but im thinking the epoxy might help a fair bit with that. did it seem to soak in much? it put a stone gaurd across the front if it were me

 

[oz97tj]

im worried about holes.... we use it alot as a floor cover over carpet pad for construction work. if something heavyish get dropped it usually punches a hole.

but im thinking the epoxy might help a fair bit with that. did it seem to soak in much? it put a stone gaurd across the front if it were me

The epoxy did soak in quite a bit. I was thinking about this as well, but I'm thinking it would take a good sized rock to hit it just right for it to happen. I don't know though. The 3 coats of epoxy should help too. I'm even thinking about putting some bedliner on the front as well to prevent chips and such. I just don't know. For what it's worth, in the front and rear, because of the curve, the stringers are only about 6 to 8 inches apart, so that should help a bunch too.

Too late to change it now. I guess we'll see what happens... :victory:

 

[java]

if the epoxy soaked in id bet it will help alot. but ive dropped small pieces of plaster (3-4") from a few feet up and had it break masonite. a rock kicked up from a tire would prob have some force behoind it.

that being said you will prob be fine. you can always fix it.

 

[oz97tj]

Mixed some fairing filler in with my epoxy to create a putty for filling.

After final sanding and last coat of epoxy.

Frame all painted up. Sawhorses work well as a rotisserie.

Axle back on. Safety chains welded up.

Working on paint. I was going for more of a desert tan color, but I guess the color card looked way darker in the store. It's barely darker than white.

Back on the frame.

I mounted taillights on the back of the frame and routed all the wiring inside the frame. I then pulled the frame to the scales. The frame, minus the sleeper, weighed 480 lbs. I then went and got my plates so I'm all legal now.

Still waiting for my fenders to arrive, and I need to wrap up the hatch, which I'm going back out to work on tonight. Slowly but surely...

 

[JPK]

Looks great! Enjoy watching the progress.

Are you using West Systems products?

JPK