Teardrop Dilemma
- Thread starter 46flattie
- Start date
Pulls down the road really nice...CJ-7 springs seem to be a good match so so far. My only real concern is tongue weight...it falls in the 190-200# ballpark which is more then I had hoped, but seems to be typical for this style trailer looking at other manufacturers' specs.
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as in total weight of trailer? if so, not sure yet, but plan to weigh it at some point. Title weight was 975# or so, but I have added weight with new frame, larger tires, brakes, tongue box, etc. My hitch assembly (M-416 lunette/casting/landing leg) is a big culprit...45# alone. My guess is total weight of 1200 -1300#.
I'm not real surprised on the tongue weight, I knew it was going to be up there...function of distance from tongue to axle. And with a tear drop, I did not have much choice on axle placement. Could have maybe moved it another inch or two forward, but elected to keep it in the stock location relative to the cabin.
On the bright side, if I elect to put a bike rack or other in the rear receiver hitch, should have some weight capacity w/o loosing too much tongue weight!
I'm not real surprised on the tongue weight, I knew it was going to be up there...function of distance from tongue to axle. And with a tear drop, I did not have much choice on axle placement. Could have maybe moved it another inch or two forward, but elected to keep it in the stock location relative to the cabin.
On the bright side, if I elect to put a bike rack or other in the rear receiver hitch, should have some weight capacity w/o loosing too much tongue weight!
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Lucky j
Explorer
I do not know about your TD, but do you have a water tank, and where is it. Some thong I realized with our T@G outback, is that we can play a lot with bags, water in the water tank, and many other items, si ply by moveing them inside the trailer. Even food in the galley fridge make a difference..
But remember that you need about 10-15 % of trailer weight on the tongue if you want good drivebility. Even the wind resistance and tongue level will afect tongue weight.
But remember that you need about 10-15 % of trailer weight on the tongue if you want good drivebility. Even the wind resistance and tongue level will afect tongue weight.
So the time has come to add a roof rack of some kind for whatever...awning to mount to, strap a canoe on top, maybe a safari basket. I am mounting brackets to the sidewalls to hold the rack cross bars. I opted to mount to the sidewall to avoid penetrations in the roof. Plan to seal the screw holes/bracket to the sidewall using some trempro 635 polyurethane sealant. However, I am concerned about the screws staying tight/working loose under load, etc. in the plywood sidewall. Considering threaded inserts like EZ-Lock's, but hate to make a hole that big right now. Was thinking about putting epoxy or gorilla glue in the holes before running the screws in. (Using 4 - SS #12 screws per bracket). The holes into the plywood are blind holes...no access to the backside.
Anybody have any experience?
Anybody have any experience?
Louisd75
Adventurer
I mounted my awning brackets to the roof using L track. I drilled holes for the mounting screws and filled them with Sika 221, then ran a bead of Sika along the bottom of the L track pieces before mounting them. The L track pieces spread the load over a bigger area.
Looked at wall mounting but I wanted to angle the awnings to stay over the roof and not hang over the trailer.
Looked at wall mounting but I wanted to angle the awnings to stay over the roof and not hang over the trailer.
Louis,
Thanks for your input. Your install looks good.
I decided to run with my sidewall attachment method. At this time I ran the screws into the sidewall with some gorilla glue in the holes. Brackets are also sealed to the aluminum with Trempro635. Seems to be a rigid setup, but time will tell. I figure if the joint loosens, I can always enlarge the screw holes and add inserts. I'll get some pictures up in the near future.
Thanks for your input. Your install looks good.
I decided to run with my sidewall attachment method. At this time I ran the screws into the sidewall with some gorilla glue in the holes. Brackets are also sealed to the aluminum with Trempro635. Seems to be a rigid setup, but time will tell. I figure if the joint loosens, I can always enlarge the screw holes and add inserts. I'll get some pictures up in the near future.
About a year in the teardrop is working well. However, when loaded, I thought the suspension was a little saggy and soft. For the build I used some old CJ-7 rear leaf springs I had laying around...while they seem to be in relatively good shape, they just are a little light on capacity at 40 years old. So being the minimalist I am, I tore the spring packs apart and added a leaf between the main and 2nd leaves using a leaf from some stock XJ packs I had laying around. Cut them to the appropriate length and put the packs back together. Gave me about an 1" of lift and stabilized the trailer nicely. Time will tell if they last. sorry no pics, but a fun afternoon in the shop.
Louisd75
Adventurer
I think that's one of the advantages of leaf springs... it's really easy to dial it in for the weight of your specific trailer.
So what are you guys/gals doing with regards to stone/rock damage? I am getting some rock rash above the diamond plate stone guard on the face of my tear drop.
Looking at the following options:
- Some removeable mud flaps for the rear of the jeep
- Applying a stone guard coating to the face of the tear drop above the diamond plate (rhino liner, line-x, etc.)
- or?
I've seen the Austrailian style horizontal rock netting between the tow vehicle and the trailer, but not sure I need that extreme of a set-up
Also looked at the "cow-catcher" screen deflectors that mount to the trailer tongue, but again not sure I want the looks of that...
Post up what has worked for you! THanks!
Looking at the following options:
- Some removeable mud flaps for the rear of the jeep
- Applying a stone guard coating to the face of the tear drop above the diamond plate (rhino liner, line-x, etc.)
- or?
I've seen the Austrailian style horizontal rock netting between the tow vehicle and the trailer, but not sure I need that extreme of a set-up
Also looked at the "cow-catcher" screen deflectors that mount to the trailer tongue, but again not sure I want the looks of that...
Post up what has worked for you! THanks!
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Check out Valiant Expedition
Louisd75
Adventurer
I did Raptor bed liner on the front of mine. Word of advice if you go this route and DIY, don't mix/match products and sand the hell out of the aluminum. My first go had issues with sections lifting off. I tried patching it a few times before removing all of it and starting over. Removing it was a lot of work.
I think @Teardropper uses some huge removeable mudflap style rock guards on his truck.
I think that it was @jim65wagon that did a screen on bungees that connected to the tow vehicle and trailer like the Australian trailers. It may have been @Hilldweller but I'm not seeing any pictures. Whoever it was said that it worked pretty well and wasn't too difficult to get it to work. I can't remember if they used trampoline material or netting.
Some of the Australian manufacturers use a cushioned pad made out of some sort of tarp or awning fabric over the sections not protected by aluminum. Camp-Inn offers something similar for their trailers but I don't believe it's padded.