The 2drx4 build, a Cherokee.

[karstic]

Another small update. I might take more pics in a bit, or not...

Got the rear section all levelled, squared, welded... Other than there is no fishplates on it yet, those will come in time. I need to buy some flatbar for that. I also need to buy some 1.5x.500 cold rolled to make recovery points before I can do much more in the rear (they will go outside the frame and through the bumper).

Hmmm...a buggy with an XJ skin.


That a helluva lotta work for

what I consider a 'mild' wheeler for extended camping/expiditions. I no longer live in an area where there is estabilished hard-core wheeling, and you can't do that alone. I'm thinking I will probably run about 2-3" of lift and some 33s, along with some body mods.

 

[2drx4]

Hmmm...a buggy with an XJ skin.


That a helluva lotta work for

Well, now it's going to be 4" and 37s, I think... But yeah. D60s and 33s wouldn't exactly be a winning combination, other than from a reliability standpoint. But I doubt I can hurt 35 spline stuff with 37s (especially if it's chromoly).

 

[XXXpedition]

you can run 37" with 4" lift?

 

[XJLI]

you can run 37" with 4" lift?

you can run 37s with no lift.

 

[2drx4]

you can run 37" with 4" lift?

Yes. It's probably more like 2" or 3" lift actually, I'm measuring off of the stock suspension height as it rolled into the garage... The springs on this thing were pretty bagged out.

The key is to cut, a lot. Don't even think of keeping the stock tubs in the rear, and be prepared for rubbing in the front unless you do some major work or really limit the uptravel.

I'm shooting for 4" of uptravel all the way around, which isn't a hell of a lot. I think I'll only do 12" of wheel travel total, maybe 14" if it's possible.

 

[karstic]

Hmmm..."full-bodied" XJ in KOH 2010?

 

[XXXpedition]

you can run 37s with no lift.

with 3" of lift even the 33"s are rubbing if you take a tight turn. articulation is close to zero - i can't imagine 37" working on a stock truck.

when off-road my 33"s where even rubbing with a 6" lift in the front when turning and i did quite some trimming.

i don't know about your rig.................

The key is to cut, a lot.

sounds like it )))))))))))))))))))))))))

 

[2drx4]

Alright, got the other corner tacked in place. Just having the two corner guards tacked on has got the body a hell of a lot more rigid. It used to be you could push the whole back end around with your fingers.

With tail-light on:

Tire relation to corner guard:

And yes, the tire is a 37" MT/R, and it's basically where it would be with a 64" WMS axle. There's a little leeway in that I could tuck it a but more (maybe an inch) before I'd have issues with my front hubs extending too far into the fodder zone.

Also, excuse the mess in the shop, normally I at least sweep up before taking pics but I ran out of time.

 

[Cody1771]

heh... so much for not knowing what your doing. thats got to be one of the best Cherokee Jobs ive ever seen. if you could put those frames into production there might be some money there.

 

[2drx4]

heh... so much for not knowing what your doing. thats got to be one of the best Cherokee Jobs ive ever seen. if you could put those frames into production there might be some money there.

It wouldn't really be viable, the amount of time it takes to graft the frame to the body is the killer part. It gets all whacked up. Of course, I'm on a rust elimination campaign, so I've removed a lot more of the body than most people would.


And for the record, I still have NO idea what I'm doing. There's some peer pressure to put a 4BT cummins diesel in this thing. Not a lot... But enough that I'm starting to come 'round on the idea. Uh-oh. Anybody want to buy all my 4.0L parts?

And on another note, I finally manned up and put a JD2 Model 3 on order. That's a tube bender for the folks that aren't familiar. I also got a 1.5" and 1.75" die for it. I borrowed a friend's before, but that's a bit of a pain.

 

[2drx4]

So, I decided I'd try the sterling rear thing out... Of course, while it doesn't have quite as bad of ground clearance as it is often made out too, it could use some hacktastication.

So, I drew some lines on it with a paint pen to act like I actually plan things.

Then I pulled the carrier out...

Then I figured MAYBE I should actually stick the rear end in place before I waste a whole bunch of time on it.

Of course, that is easier said than done.

I started by cutting out some simple tabs for my UCA towers:

Then I modified some old poly brackets that I had lying around to make the frame side UCA mount.

Not my best welding... It'll be fine.

Then I made some lower link brackets from some more random poly stuff: (shown tacked in place because I didn't take a pic otherwise)

Also, they're 'adjustable' but I have no intention of running anything but the upper position.

This piece will also be added to those brackets: (shown upside down)

Upper tabs, lower brackets (random poly ******** again) in place:

I had to clearance the pumpkin to get the lower bracket to fit. Was kinda a pain in the MMM. The other side wasn't an issue, the pinion/pumpkin is quite offset on a sterling. Which is a bit unfortunate. If a guy wanted to narrow it by a couple inches, it would be easy as they have unequal length axleshafts and one could run two short ones.

Then the whole mess:

I also cut out the piece that holds the hatch latch and lower hatch seal; it had to come out to allow it to be mated to a floor, so it will go back in.


The axle is at full bump. My links only have half the tube inserts in them, I didn't think to order them ahead of time (building out of stuff lying around). Also, one of the JJ's actually has a 1" shank. I haven't checked what happens when the axle travels because I'm missing parts. Lowers are heat treated chromo stuff (4130, apparently about 170KSI yield, assuming only 140KSI I'm fine for about 3000lbs on the mid-point of one lower link). Uppers are just plain old DOM. All JJ's are right hand thread - I do not believe in left threads unless there is a real good reason for it. And since I bought my JJs over a long period of time I have two different sizes of jam nuts, which is unfortunate. Also, the plan is still to shave the sterling by whacking a big chunk off it and plating the bottom. I just wanted to make sure it fit decent first. I imagine I should remove the pinion before I do that.

 

[2drx4]

Anybody wanna guess what this was?

Here's a hint. I can't say I'd recommend using a 5" angle grinder to shave an axle. Something with a little more reach would make it a lot easier...

Now there's a big ol' hole:

And this is a view of how much I removed:

Versus how it started:

Before anybody says anything, I don't wear sandals while working in the shop. Not any more at least. And if I was to I wouldn't be wearing socks with them, I have been told that is taboo by enough females...

Anyways, the grinding isn't done, it needs to be trued up a bit first. Then I'll check that the carrier can actually go back in... Then I just gotta stick a piece of .375" on it. Oh, and build a diff cover since I can't seem to find an aftermarket one that I could modify. And the stock on is much like an 8.8, about as thick as that coloured construction paper.

Also, I should pull the pinion out before I do the welding. I imagine the bearings are packed full of filings now anyways. I'm not sure how bad that will be, I'm thinking it should just pop out with a gentle sledge-hammering?

 

[Root Moose]

Safety sandals ******! I've since upgraded to Hill Billy slippers for quickly slipping something on and going out to the workshop. Get your used up steel toe rubber boots and cut everything off from the ankle up with a carpet knife.

You lost your excuse to buy a bigger tool. Should have waited to buy new tools to knock the bottom off the housing off. Supposedly a steel blade in a circular saw works well too.

I don't know if Sterlings are configured differently than Danas but I've never had a problem with pulling the pinion on a Dana. As long as you have something to damp the blow of the mallet (wood) it should come out easily. Fill the housing with shop rags to catch the pinion when it finally falls out.

 

[rroadkilll]

WOW... All I can say!!! WOW!!!

I'll be watching this!!!

 

[ExpoMike]

I understand the reasoning for shaving the bottom of the diff housing but why remove the webbing from the left and right side of the housing? I would think that would not add much, if any clearance but the loss of strength would outweigh doing it.