The other wonder mechanical genius my 88 Trooper
- Thread starter PPCLI_Jim
- Start date
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
AHHHH the plan,, It's been decided by me to keep the Rowdayo stock and concentrate on building the Trooper. It will be easier and cheaper on that path. as they both share the same tire fit I could swap the 16s on the Rowdayo onto the Trooper with a taller sidewall. and put the 15's fro, it back onto the street ride. :ylsmoke: Yes that will be a good start. At the same time I think I have sold my quad, that will feed money into the conversion from ITECH EFI to a Carb. one thing that is also being done is my Jetta Yes I have one will have the Motor that has blown rings will be swapped out with one that runs great as partial payment.
If that gets done i really dont need the Rowdayo so I can sell it and be up for once or at least less behind:ylsmoke:
If that gets done i really dont need the Rowdayo so I can sell it and be up for once or at least less behind:ylsmoke:
Eaglefreek
Eagleless
What do you plan on doing with the transmission with the carb conversion?
Eaglefreek
Eagleless
I don't think it would be too difficult to make it work like it is supposed to. Looking at some of the other things you've done you have the skill to do it. I'll have to look at the manual and see what voltages the TPS sends to the transmission computer, and if the trans computer or engine computer send the 5v to the TPS, but I would bet you they are the same voltages as a Jeep with an AW4. The TPS on the Trooper slides onto a d shaped shaft where as the 87-90 Jeep TPS has a lever that a small hole can be drilled into so a stiff spring can be attached to it and to the throttle linkage. I did this on my Eagle and the transmission worked like it was supposed to from the factory. No matter what, you need to connect the TV cable to the carb somehow. It controls hydraulic pressures in the trans. I don't think you will have full control of the transmission manually with the just shifter with the computer disconnected. There are too many electric solenoids involved that do the actual gear shifting. I'll do some research the next couple of days.
I did something similar to this when I fabbed a bracket for the TPS to carb.
I did something similar to this when I fabbed a bracket for the TPS to carb.
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
That would be great !!!
So I went to check my intank Fuel pump and screen. . Well it appears that im not the first to do this . I got out the grinder and thin Zip disc to do the Johnny5ive mod so I can get access from the top without dropping the tank. I had found the video and psyched myself for cutting good metal for once on a body. after fighting the hold down points Bolts and broken loose nuts I decided on well hey the grinder is already here , So off came the heads. a small tap tap with my trusty hammer Mjolnir ,they dropped down to the ground. Once the carpet and padding were rolled back a mystery occurred, I discovered that it( the patch panel above the pump) has already been done and the patch was fiberglassed in :?: . well after some exploring around i have seen that the fuel pump assy is held on by 4 of 8 bolts ... great . after making my way into the tank its actually clean
BUT The pump is covered in Surface rust ... I find that indicative it was either stored in a moist climate with a nearly empty tank or it had gone for a swim an.... but it looks like i should try a fuel pump replacement Before i start in on the Carb conversion . as Id have to do it anyway :|
So I went to check my intank Fuel pump and screen. . Well it appears that im not the first to do this . I got out the grinder and thin Zip disc to do the Johnny5ive mod so I can get access from the top without dropping the tank. I had found the video and psyched myself for cutting good metal for once on a body. after fighting the hold down points Bolts and broken loose nuts I decided on well hey the grinder is already here , So off came the heads. a small tap tap with my trusty hammer Mjolnir ,they dropped down to the ground. Once the carpet and padding were rolled back a mystery occurred, I discovered that it( the patch panel above the pump) has already been done and the patch was fiberglassed in :?: . well after some exploring around i have seen that the fuel pump assy is held on by 4 of 8 bolts ... great . after making my way into the tank its actually clean
BUT The pump is covered in Surface rust ... I find that indicative it was either stored in a moist climate with a nearly empty tank or it had gone for a swim an.... but it looks like i should try a fuel pump replacement Before i start in on the Carb conversion . as Id have to do it anyway :|
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Eaglefreek
Eagleless
I was looking at the manual and it appears the Isuzu and Jeep TPS send very similar voltages to the transmission computer. You would need to cut off the Isuzu TPS connector and splice in a Jeep connector. It's only 3 wires. The Isuzu's transmission computer supplies the voltage to the TPS. You would have to install the temp sender for the trans computer into the carbed intake or thermostat housing and also hook up the TV cable aka kickdown cable. I think you may just be able to ground the wire that goes to that temp sensor. I think all it does it prevent the torque converter from locking up until the engine reaches temperature. When you get to that point we can explore it further.
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
well as its fishing time (on open water), I decided to change out my old busted tail light for my new ones on my trailer. well I know the wiring under it was sketchy as heck so i decided to up grade that too. BUT while under it I noticed all the suspension bits were held together by lag bolts. :Wow1::Wow1::Wow1: So today i pulled the decking off of it and went to town with the buzz box and fluxcore . and hit every seam and joint i can , Just because. :chef: Well as i stated early I'm not a smart man but I am a hard one. and while welding one bead i decided to lean on a warm weld ... man i hate that ... well Ill have a friend drop by and we will roll it over as its not that heavy I will finish it off on its back as I hate doing overhead welds , doing flat welds is just better . :coffeedrink:
Eaglefreek
Eagleless
Wow is right. :Wow1:
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
http://alltrails.com/tracks/lily-lake-to-kvr
well after running it for a while its not so bad. I took it on this route I laid out in my local area, It's got all sorts of terrain. From steep, to soft, to rough, to tight. Mud to sharp scrabble :ylsmoke:. Yea the ROWDAYO did well.
well after running it for a while its not so bad. I took it on this route I laid out in my local area, It's got all sorts of terrain. From steep, to soft, to rough, to tight. Mud to sharp scrabble :ylsmoke:. Yea the ROWDAYO did well.
justcuz
Explorer
Your Trooper trans is basically an AW4. (A340H) Looking at it from that standpoint the voltages between the Jeep and the Isuzu should be the same. I don't think Troopers went to the French GM trans until the second generation. Later Rodeos and Axioms I believe went back to the AW4. I also read there is a possibility that the later Rodeos and Axioms had NP231 t-cases in them with Isuzu compatible drive flanges, but a 2.05 low range. If that's true then 2.72 low range planetaries are easily swapped in and I believe they still make a 4-1 low range replacement for an NP231.
My personal opinion about stick shift transmissions is they belong in hot rods. With the available gearing options, a 4.77 geared Trooper with an AW4, Terra Low 3.0 gears or a set of 2.72 in a NP 231 would do 90% of what anyone wanted to do. AW4's and 2.72 geared NP231's are a dime a dozen in Jeep Cherokees at the wrecking yard. Swap the planetaries into the passenger drop 231, if that's what it is. Or get a GM passenger drop NP 241 same 2.72 low range and roll with it.
Why don't you do the Johnny 5 mods to the ITEC and skip the carb. I've looked at his video and if I lived in cold country I would modify his water bypass in the intake a little but relocation the sensors to the top side makes good sense.
Carbs for these engines here are more money than modifying the ITEC and in smog country we can't install them anyway. I could easily get the ITEC mods past my smog guy.
My personal opinion about stick shift transmissions is they belong in hot rods. With the available gearing options, a 4.77 geared Trooper with an AW4, Terra Low 3.0 gears or a set of 2.72 in a NP 231 would do 90% of what anyone wanted to do. AW4's and 2.72 geared NP231's are a dime a dozen in Jeep Cherokees at the wrecking yard. Swap the planetaries into the passenger drop 231, if that's what it is. Or get a GM passenger drop NP 241 same 2.72 low range and roll with it.
Why don't you do the Johnny 5 mods to the ITEC and skip the carb. I've looked at his video and if I lived in cold country I would modify his water bypass in the intake a little but relocation the sensors to the top side makes good sense.
Carbs for these engines here are more money than modifying the ITEC and in smog country we can't install them anyway. I could easily get the ITEC mods past my smog guy.
justcuz
Explorer
Edit:
A little online research shows that the TOD t-case is a Borg Warner. Also appears the trans may still be the GM 4L30e in the Axiom and Rodeo.
Cherokee trans with passenger drop 241 using your 2.6 bell housing would get you a 2.72 low range.
My guess is with the torque multiplication of the converter you get a better crawl ratio with an automatic than you would with the 5 speed.
A little online research shows that the TOD t-case is a Borg Warner. Also appears the trans may still be the GM 4L30e in the Axiom and Rodeo.
Cherokee trans with passenger drop 241 using your 2.6 bell housing would get you a 2.72 low range.
My guess is with the torque multiplication of the converter you get a better crawl ratio with an automatic than you would with the 5 speed.