Thinking of an XJ

[BIGdaddy]

So I am gathering that the best models came after 1992 due to improved engine management. Is rust a common issue with these? If so, where are the biggest problem areas?

Thanks for the input thus far!

I personally wouldn't buy older than 1992, yeah, for that reason as well as the open cooling system.

Rust:

probably rocker panels, drip rails, and near window seals.

floor pans, too, but only if a layer of undercoat isn't maintained.

Even my AZ 100% rust-free rig had issues with the front and rear leaf spring bolts.

Also, as mentioned, the upper rear shock bolts (2 per side) like to break off. More of a quality of fastener issue, likely.

 

[4Rescue]

If you're thinking of replacing your Cruiser with an XJ... You WILL be majorly dissapointed. Your milage won't improve AND you've got a uni-body rig to fight with in the long run. Just buy another Toyota and be done with it.

Cheers

Dave

 

[JeepN95YJ]

If you're thinking of replacing your Cruiser with an XJ... You WILL be majorly dissapointed. Your milage won't improve AND you've got a uni-body rig to fight with in the long run. Just buy another Toyota and be done with it.

Cheers

Dave

Another predictable post from Mr. "Bash all Jeeps, Only buy Toyota, Post in All Jeep Threads"
:victory::wings:

 

[Schattenjager]

IF this comes together, the XJ will be a second vehicle used for camping and snow days only. I would have a car for the daily duties.

If you're thinking of replacing your Cruiser with an XJ... You WILL be majorly dissapointed. Your milage won't improve AND you've got a uni-body rig to fight with in the long run. Just buy another Toyota and be done with it.

Cheers

Dave

 

[T>D>C]

Not older than 91. 91 I think stated earlier, is the 1st year of the hi output. You should be able to get a later model for a decent price. I think they stopped manufacturing in 2002.

 

[Root Moose]

Another predictable post from Mr. "Bash all Jeeps, Only buy Toyota, Post in All Jeep Threads"
:victory::wings:

Yeah, I like to take on the Toyota cheerleaders when I'm in the mood for it. LOL

 

[Root Moose]

FWIW, an FZJ80 weighs about 1000lbs more than an XJ (IIRC) but has more or less the same power under the hood. Which one do you think will get better mileage?

The 1987-1990 RENIX XJs aren't that bad. Given a choice I wouldn't buy one but if a built one fell into my lap for an amazing price I'd buy it without hesitation. The EFI system is good but people are starting to complain about parts and troubleshooting capability. We are spoiled by the modern stuff I think.

The 1984-1986 ones with Chevy V6s are to be avoided. If you want a 4 cylinder (why?) then consider that vintage if in excellent condition for a great price. I'd avoid personally but they aren't that bad.

I'm partial to the 97+ ones for the "modern" (by Chrysler standards) interior. Bigger guys find they have more interior room with the older AMC designed interiors. I was never a fan of the AMC interior but I've warmed up to it over the years. It's retro-funky.

MY00-MY01 will have a low pinion front axle. If you are planning on bench building a locked axle to replace the OEM axle then it's a non issue.

MY00-MY01 also has distributorless ignition. It's not something to avoid (I prefer it) but it's mentioned just so you are aware.

The five speed (AX15) and the automatic (AW4) in the `91 up are good transmissions. (AW4 started in MY87 - not sure about AX15). They are manufactured by Aisin (same company that sells the same transmissions and locking hubs to Toyota for their trucks).

Rust: windshield frame and drip rails on the drivers side are the most annoying spots. Otherwise the normal search for rust applies. The area were the rear shocks attach to the unibody can be bad also.

 

[Schattenjager]

FWIW, an FZJ80 weighs about 1000lbs more than an XJ (IIRC) ...

Solid post - thanks for the info!

 

[shogun]

Some big Opinions going on here.

Renix has no specific problems. People want the HO engine for the measly 10hp gain. Somehow I dont think you'll notice it. The price you pay (for HO) is an AW4 without the economy/power mode, annoying engine codes and OBD2 nanny. Inability to do engine/trans mods because of OBD. Not sure you'll see any tangible fuel economy gain either, so the "better breathing" is, well, better I suppose. Also a recent thread noted that the HO motor precluded an aftermarket, long range fuel tank.

The HO motor does have more aftermarket support, but I dont know what specifically would be enough to discount the renix. I dont need a throttle body spacer.

I sorta like the simplicity of the renix, the lack of OBD, and the lack of issues after 260,000 miles, along with the bulletproof AW4. Change over to open cooling system and you're GTG.

 

[baca327]

My choice is 99. HP d30 non-disco. Redesigned intake manifold. No chance of head issue of 2000. 29 spline 8.25. Distributor style ignition. Updated interior.

 

[The Adam Blaster]

Also a recent thread noted that the HO motor precluded an aftermarket, long range fuel tank.

You might be making reference to a thread I started, and that is a valid point if you're looking to get an extended rnge tank.
I did end up finding a company called "Jazz" I think??
They were the only ones I could find that would make a tank for 97+ XJ's. Well, outside of one company in Australia.

But through that thread, someone, or several people actually, sent me to a site where a guy did an in-tank modification to the breather hose that gained him an extra 3.5-4 gallons that essentially cost him nothing other than time.
So, a 95 or 96 model year would get you the HO motor, and the "old-style" fuel system to allow this mod.

Just something to consider.

Something else you might want to keep your eye on:
The transfer case.
Try to get an XJ with the NP231 rather than the NP242. There is almost no aftermarket support for the 242, but TONS for the 231. I'm thinking of both the SYE as well as alternative gearing options for the t-case.

 

[Schattenjager]

...
Something else you might want to keep your eye on:
The transfer case.
Try to get an XJ with the NP231 rather than the NP242. There is almost no aftermarket support for the 242, but TONS for the 231. I'm thinking of both the SYE as well as alternative gearing options for the t-case.

How does a non-Jeeper know the differences?

 

[BIGdaddy]

How does a non-Jeeper know the differences?

np231 = 2hi-N-4hi-4Lo. Very straightforward.

np242 = 2hi-N-AWD-4hi-4Lo (or something like that...You'll see an option for fulltime 4wd for snowy/icy driving)

 

[BIGdaddy]

Something else you might want to keep your eye on:
The transfer case.
Try to get an XJ with the NP231 rather than the NP242. There is almost no aftermarket support for the 242, but TONS for the 231. I'm thinking of both the SYE as well as alternative gearing options for the t-case.

Just some research/info on products for the 242. Like Adam said, the 231 has a much bigger following, but the 242 is still a good case, that'll do the job.

tomwoods sye for the 242 w/ CV shaft:
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

HD crossmember/skid
http://www.jeeperz-creeperz.com/np242-xmember-p-4469.html

2low kit? not sure if you can make this work on a 242...

 

[The Adam Blaster]

np231 = 2hi-N-4hi-4Lo. Very straightforward.

np242 = 2hi-N-AWD-4hi-4Lo (or something like that...You'll see an option for fulltime 4wd for snowy/icy driving)

Plus you could slide yourself under the Jeep and wipe of the road dirt and see what the t-case is stamped with.