DividingCreek
Explorer
Two more years and we will be able to legaly bring in the first of the Tdi discos (89 model year). They will most likely be parts donors for a whole wave of disco conversions here.
Thoughts on Transplants- 300Tdi vs. 3.9 v8
- Thread starter Dendy Jarrett
- Start date
bobtail4x4
Adventurer
I have offered before, I have room for a container, and can accept your ebay uk winnings to go in it.
I dont really want to be chasing about the country collecting parts but we have a good pallet delivery set up over here, anything moved for about $80, as long as it fits on a pallet.
anyone who "really" wants a half car, I suppose it can be done but it adds another $500 or so for the work,
I dont really want to be chasing about the country collecting parts but we have a good pallet delivery set up over here, anything moved for about $80, as long as it fits on a pallet.
anyone who "really" wants a half car, I suppose it can be done but it adds another $500 or so for the work,
DividingCreek
Explorer
Bobtail I've sent you a pm.
Cheers,
Doug
Cheers,
Doug
1) I didnt make the statement about V8 being or not being a dog. You are mixing up quotes here.
2) Jim Pendleton in Kansas quoted me a $13,000 estimate. I still have my notes. I will go back and check them when I get back in town. Further, I think you are over simplifying the costs. You are not including the labor. There is a significant amount of modification to be done to fit a TDi in a gasser rover - rewiring, engine mounts, suspension changes, etc. As said earlier, it isnt easy.
LtFuzz
Explorer
Let's not forget the amount of money many "casual" Rover people spend on non-powerplant modifications. Basic F+R lockers, axles, armor, roof rack, winch + bumper, suspension, etc., -- even without going crazy -- and plus labor since we're counting labor on the TDI swap, will see numbers pretty close to the diesel swap. And these mods are certainly not raising the intrinsic value of your D1/D2 more or less than a TDI will.
Of course if you had a TDI you'd want those mods too but there is a recurring theme that a diesel conversion "isn't worth it" and that you won't see a financial benefit.
You're not going to see a financial benefit with the first $5,000-$10,000 worth of modifications you purchased so why is the motor swap's financial viability suddenly in question? Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be pedantic, but the idea that the $X,XXX spent on a diesel conversion is somehow less well spent than the $X,XXX on OME/ARB/BFG/Warn/Engel stuff is a bit incongruous, isn't it?
Of course if you had a TDI you'd want those mods too but there is a recurring theme that a diesel conversion "isn't worth it" and that you won't see a financial benefit.
You're not going to see a financial benefit with the first $5,000-$10,000 worth of modifications you purchased so why is the motor swap's financial viability suddenly in question? Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be pedantic, but the idea that the $X,XXX spent on a diesel conversion is somehow less well spent than the $X,XXX on OME/ARB/BFG/Warn/Engel stuff is a bit incongruous, isn't it?
I, nor I dont believe anyone else, has made the claim that the bolt on mods increase a trucks value either. That argument doesnt fly. Correct me if I am wrong, but from what I have read, engine conversions are typically done when there is a need for a new engine or substantial repair. The bolt on mods dont have anything to do with keeping the truck running. My point, and others too, is that if you have to change the engine out, in the US it is more economical to stick with the V8 for the reasons already previously in this thread.
Rocket Ship
Banned
I didn't mean to suggest those other quotes came from you. It's just a string of quotes.
This is the crux of the argument. On the one hand, you say that bolt on's do not increase the value of the truck, and are not done to keep the truck running. We all agree on that. They are done to make the truck "better", or just because the owner likes the look, or whatever.
But then you are seemingly suggesting the only valid reason to re-power a truck is if the original engine blows, and then it is more economical to just use a stock replacement.
For many of us however, the swap is not because the original engine blew, and economics don't matter. The diesel swap is just a big bolt-on, and we do it to make the truck "better."
I would even argue the point that it's more economical to just swap in another RV8. Sure, maybe you can pick up another one from the scrap yard for a few grand. But that's not something I would ever do. It's just another big steaming pile of junk, likely to blow up and leave you stranded again. The only RV8 I would bother swapping in would be completely rebuilt with sleeved liners, or a new long block so that I could have a reasonable chance (~90%?) of getting 60,000 miles out of it before it blows up again. Either one of those would cost over $5000.
If I were in the $1000 junkyard engine market, hands down, I'd take some tired old 300 rather than a questionable RV8. Sure, it's more work. But my labor is free. And in my opinion, anybody who intends to do with their truck that which is the subject of this forum, should be able to figure out how to do this. It's not that hard.
This is the crux of the argument. On the one hand, you say that bolt on's do not increase the value of the truck, and are not done to keep the truck running. We all agree on that. They are done to make the truck "better", or just because the owner likes the look, or whatever.
But then you are seemingly suggesting the only valid reason to re-power a truck is if the original engine blows, and then it is more economical to just use a stock replacement.
For many of us however, the swap is not because the original engine blew, and economics don't matter. The diesel swap is just a big bolt-on, and we do it to make the truck "better."
I would even argue the point that it's more economical to just swap in another RV8. Sure, maybe you can pick up another one from the scrap yard for a few grand. But that's not something I would ever do. It's just another big steaming pile of junk, likely to blow up and leave you stranded again. The only RV8 I would bother swapping in would be completely rebuilt with sleeved liners, or a new long block so that I could have a reasonable chance (~90%?) of getting 60,000 miles out of it before it blows up again. Either one of those would cost over $5000.
If I were in the $1000 junkyard engine market, hands down, I'd take some tired old 300 rather than a questionable RV8. Sure, it's more work. But my labor is free. And in my opinion, anybody who intends to do with their truck that which is the subject of this forum, should be able to figure out how to do this. It's not that hard.
DividingCreek
Explorer
In my case the 96 disco with 84k was free from a client. I have bought a RTE front winch bumper, RTE sliders with square nerf bars, RTE rear bumper also with nerfs, 235.85 mud terrains, 2 inch lift. The engine I just installed was an 80k used unit for $850 from Randy Williams @ Rover Bones in Lancaster Pa. http://usedlandroverpartsco.fatcow.com/
Clearly I have thrown thousands @ a truck that was free 5 weeks ago. Have a 1.4 transfer case inbound from the Uk for it as well. Intent was to make it a tow rig as well as something my teenagers and girlfriend can drive off road-hence (attempt to get them interested in my hobby) all the armor.
To each their own on how they spend their money or outfit their trucks. I wasn't trying to start anything above- Dendy asked for opinions and I offered my personal one.
Clearly I have thrown thousands @ a truck that was free 5 weeks ago. Have a 1.4 transfer case inbound from the Uk for it as well. Intent was to make it a tow rig as well as something my teenagers and girlfriend can drive off road-hence (attempt to get them interested in my hobby) all the armor.
To each their own on how they spend their money or outfit their trucks. I wasn't trying to start anything above- Dendy asked for opinions and I offered my personal one.
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timmy!!!!!!!
Explorer
Doug your disco sounds a lot like mine except I have a 3in. lift with 33s. I wish 1.4 transfer cases were easier to come by in the US because that is exactly what my disco needed when I had 235/85s.
REDROVER
Explorer
let me ask you this>>> if your fuel cost was less than $2 a gallon would you do it? if your truck will be more reliable and have more resale value would u do it? you know the answer.
if i had a rover and knew were to get a 300tdi. i wouldnt be on the portal writing this, i would of been working as fast as i could to finish it,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgP7OCQ6wTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvRy9OXeOuE
if i had a rover and knew were to get a 300tdi. i wouldnt be on the portal writing this, i would of been working as fast as i could to finish it,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgP7OCQ6wTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvRy9OXeOuE
If fuel cost were less than $2 a gallon, it may change the decision. However, in order to get <$2/gallon people are going to have to figure out how to source wvo, or someother bio deisel (if there are others). I would suggest 99.5% of the people doing diesel conversions are buying their fuel at the diesel pump (in the $4/gallon range + or _ $0.25).
DC- Did you watch the video? He is running used motor oil in his 6.2. I understand you would have to have a stout filter to be able to remove any sludge or solids and I cannot image that this burns clean!?! Thoughts?
D
That's right, now I remember...sorry it had been awhile since I read that he was running used oil and something else. Is that possible with the 300TDi? How easy is it to go get the used oil? Do the parts stores just cough it up when you ask?
I am assuming sourcing used oil is the same as sourcing wvo?? You have to get it from someone with mass quantaties since you wont change oil (or fry chicken) that often at home! LOL
I am assuming sourcing used oil is the same as sourcing wvo?? You have to get it from someone with mass quantaties since you wont change oil (or fry chicken) that often at home! LOL
Snagger
Explorer
No - Tdis don't even like heated new vegoil; the engine and turbo turbine coke up with black gunge very quickly. Don't use anything but diesel on direct injection diesels - thicker fuel condenses on the bores and gums things up. Indirect injection engines are far more tolerant, as long as the injector pump is robust enough. This is my experience with a 12J, 200Tdi and 300Tdi - the 12J loved it (but the weak Lucus pump is susceptible if the vegoil is not heated) but the Tdis had trouble. And despite what you hear, you can't even blend vegoil with diesel on a Tdi - it knackered my 300's injection pump.