Three Days in the San Juans

BretEdge

Adventurer
Two weekends ago I left Moab for a quick, three-day escape to the San Juan Mountains. I'd grown tired of the oppressive desert heat and red rocks and I knew the Rockies would deliver cooler temperatures and trees. That, and I had to drop off ten prints at the Durango Art Center for an exhibit featuring some of my black and white work. Seemed like a perfect excuse for a fully tax deductible business trip! If you're in the Durango area, I recommend you stop off at the Durango Arts Center to check out the exhibit. Several photographers are participating and the work is absolutely amazing.

After dropping off the prints in Durango I headed north to Little Molas Lake for sunset, which wasn't bad but didn't set off any alarms, either. I wanted to sleep in an alpine basin next to a lake so after sunset I drove to Clear Lake Basin just outside Silverton. It was a Friday night and I was worried I wouldn't find a place to park but luckily, I found a spot right next to the lake. I was exhausted and thankful that I roll with a roof top tent that pitches in about two minutes flat. I crawled into the tent and fell asleep to the sounds of...nothing. Just dead silence. The temperature inside the tent dropped to 35 degrees on Friday night. I wanted cooler temperatures and I got them.

I awoke early on Saturday to shoot sunrise as there were still quite a few healthy wildflowers, which surprised me given it was mid-August. Today would be a long day so after sunrise I drove into Silverton for the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet at Grumpy's. Stomach full, I headed out toward Animas Forks. I first drove into and back out of Minnie Gulch, then took the road into Eureka Gulch, which was a favorite of the trip. I scouted out a couple outstanding places to camp next to a cascading creek with a beautiful tarn only a few feet away, all of which was overwatched by a pair of lovely peaks. Once out of Eureka Gulch I headed into Placer Gulch, where I somehow got off track and ended up driving way, way up some dead end road through a huge flock of sheep. I also found an old mine on a hill and some relatively fresh det cord that I decided not to handle since one end disappeared into a pile of rocks. I eventually found my way back to the main trail and drove it to the intersection with the California Gulch trail. The views in this part of the San Juans are embarrassingly good. I drove up to California Pass, then Hurricane Pass and finally into Corkscrew Gulch. The view from California Pass is among my favorites but unfortunately, I only shot it on my iPhone. I still don't know why I didn't break out the big camera. I needed to find somewhere to shoot sunset but I hadn't done any research on the area so I decided to go where I knew an opportunity was present: Owl Creek Pass. It was a long drive but I made it right at sunset. I scurried around looking for a photo opportunity but struck out. I parked my rig in a meadow across the road and sacked out for the night. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that not one single vehicle passed the entire night.

I slept in on Sunday and when I did finally crawl out of bed I made breakfast and then pointed the FJ south to Ouray. I was excited to run Imogene Pass again. I hadn't been over the pass in a few years but I knew it afforded some of the best views in the whole mountain range. The road seemed a little rougher than the last time I drove it but the FJ handled it with grace. Below the pass on the Ouray side I found a few fields that were literally carpeted with wildflowers. At the pass I stopped for lunch and made a few images, including a spectacular panorama of the endless mountain views. The day was growing short and I needed to hustle home so I made no stops on the downward side into Telluride.

The following weekend I went back with my wife and son. We ran a few more trails, the most notable of which was Mineral Creek. My guidebook rates it as "difficult" and I expected it to be much worse than it was. In Moab, when a trail is described as "difficult" it usually involves significant technical challenges and many sweaty palm, butt pucker moments. With the exception of one narrow section of off-camber shelf road that pitched the FJ into a slightly uncomfortable view of the abyss hundreds of feet below, I found Mineral Creek to be relatively straightforward. Clearly, Moab "difficult" is significantly different from San Juans "difficult." The highlight of our time on the Mineral Creek trail was spotting a lynx running across the road and through some wildflowers on a hillside. Sorry, no photos as my camera was in the back of the truck.

All in all, it was a fantastic time and many photos were made, some of which I'll post below. I'm already eager to get back next year and run a few more trails. I've been on nearly every trail in the San Juans but there are still a few that I'd like to visit again and even a few more that I've never explored. No doubt there's an alpine basin or two that I really need to see!
 
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BretEdge

Adventurer
Little Molas Lake is an easy to reach spot with a nice little campground that seems to be perpetually full. There's good fishing in the lake and the Colorado Trail cuts right through the area. Some day I'm going to mountain bike the CT, at least the section that runs through the San Juans.

The road up to Clear Lake is, I believe, rated moderate but in reality, it is an easy road. There are no obstacles other than a couple semi-tight switchbacks. I've heard that Clear Lake is also good for fishing but as I'm not a fisherman I can't verify that claim. It is most certainly good (no, great) for camping and wildflowers in the summer. There are many tarns in the area, a nice little creek with some lovely cascades and waterfalls. One word of caution: there are marmots here and they love to get under your vehicle and chew on hoses. I've camped here numerous times and have been awakened at least twice by mischievous marmots under my truck. This is true of most of the high mountain basins in the San Juans. From now on I'll carry enough chicken wire to completely surround the truck when it's parked overnight.

Snowdon Peak reflecting in Little Molas Lake as sunset
Snowdon Peak Reflecting in Little Molas Lake at Sunset.jpg

FJ Cruiser under the stars at Clear Lake
Toyota FJ Cruiser at Clear Lake Camp Below Star Filled Sky.jpg

Saturday morning at the Clear Lake Camp
Toyota FJ Cruiser with Roof Top Tent at Clear Lake.jpg
 
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BretEdge

Adventurer
Saturday arrived quickly as I awoke to photograph sunrise on the peaks above Clear Lake. I wandered around in the twilight and found some nice wildflowers to photograph in the foreground. After sunrise, I packed up and headed down the hill to Silverton for breakfast at Grumpy's. Knowing that I would spend the entire day driving I topped off the fuel tank and got an early start on the road to Animas Forks. I drove in and out of Minnie Gulch, then into Eureka Gulch. Years ago I camped in Eureka Gulch with some friends. I remembered it being a beautiful spot and was not disappointed to find that little had changed. Most of the 4x4 roads in the San Juans were originally developed to serve dozens of different mines in the area and this one is no exception. Mining ruins were everywhere but rather than detract from the experience, I found them to be quite interesting. The road into Eureka Gulch is easily passable in a high-clearance 2WD rig. at least when dry.

After Eureka Gulch I turned into Placer/Picayune Gulch. This area can be a bit confusing as there are roads splitting off of roads all over the place. I followed an increasingly deteriorating road high up onto a ridge until it dead ended. I drove through a large flock of sheep and found an old mine adit that was sealed off by a large stack of rocks. It was here that I discovered the det cord leading out of the mine. I quickly left. Views from this side road were quite spectacular. Back on the main road I made a couple stops to enjoy the views and walked out to a fairly large tarn. Soon I ran into the California Pass road and took it to Hurricane Pass, where I stopped to have a snack and photograph the spectacular views. I even convinced the FJ to pose for a shot above a small lake seemingly formed out of nothing but talus. Both California and Hurricane Pass roads were good and presented no difficult challenges. Navigation was also straightforward.

After Hurricane Pass I picked up the road into Corkscrew Gulch. I'm not sure if there is a Corkscrew Pass but I did drive over what seemed to be a pass that, just like all the others, had incredible views of one mountain after another that seemed to never end. Corkscrew Gulch had a few tight switchbacks, one of which surprised me with a three point turn. I may have taken a bad line or maybe it really was a tight one!

I exited Corkscrew onto Hwy. 550 and drove into Ouray under skies that threatened rain. I was famished and too lazy to cook so I stopped at Buen Tiempo for dinner then continued north to Ridgway and further toward Owl Creek Pass. This is a good, graded dirt road passable by passenger cars in good weather. I may have exceeded the speed limit en route to Chimney Rock where I planned to photograph sunset. I arrived a bit too late and parked in a small meadow across the street where I deployed the roof top tent for the night. Sleep came very quickly as I was wiped out from a long day of exploring by FJ and on foot.

Wildflowers and alpenglow at Clear Lake on Saturday morning
Wildflower Sunrise at Clear Lake Basin-Edit.jpg

Wildflowers in Eureka Gulch weren't all that bad, either. I think that's Bonita Peak in the background. Can anyone confirm?
Wildflowers in Eureka Gulch Below Bonita Peak.jpg

The FJ above a tarn on Hurricane Pass
FJ Cruiser Reflecting in Tarn on Hurricane Pass.jpg

The tightest switchback in Corkscrew Gulch.
Tight Switchback in Corkscrew Gulch-Edit.jpg

The false hellebore plants (aka corn lillies, skunk cabbage) were just starting to lose their summer green and I thought they were beautiful.
Wildflowers and Corn Lillies.jpg



PHOTOS COMING SOON! STILL HAVE SOME POST-PROCESSING TO DO AND WILL TRY TO POST THEM TONIGHT (8/29).
 
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doubleroses

Adventurer
Amazing photos. My wife and I just spent a couple of days up there and absolutely loved it. Black bear pass is fun and has a lot of great sights!
 

mattiep11

Adventurer
nice photos of the region....that corkscrew pic I've got video of my 1 ton truck out joyriding it with some friends ....
 

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