Tire Deflators

HongerVenture

Adventurer
I have the "Sun Performance: Quick Air Deflators" and have been very pleased. Simple, quick, maintenance free, cheap, and stores on a keychain. I keep mine in the center console. Always wanted some Stauns, but when I had the choice I went with the Quick Airs so I could use the extra $ for some recovery gear.

Joel
 

BigAl

Expedition Leader
I've tried my buddies stauns, but his where kind of fussy and often stopped to soon. I prefer this tool, I can get within 3lbs by ear on a good day.:)
33219.JPG
 

FlyingWen

Explorer
We use Stauns and Love them. We just tested them for accuracy b/c we have an upcoming trip.

The Stauns are not as fast as the ARB Deflator, but you can put them on and continue on the trail without worry. That is worth a lot more then speed IMO.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I use one of these (MMC p/n 48435K72 [20psi]):
48435kp1l.gif


attached to one of these (MMC p/n 6140A62 [1/4 NPTF]):
6140ap1l.gif
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
FlyingWen said:
The Stauns are not as fast as the ARB Deflator, but you can put them on and continue on the trail without worry. That is worth a lot more then speed IMO.

MMMM... please don't drive with your stauns on! They are not designed to operate while moving.
 

MoGas

Central Scrutinizer
I had a set of Stauns until I let someone use them on a run and I forgot to get them back and I can't remember who it was.
 

FlyingWen

Explorer
SmittyBilt just came out with deflators that retail for around $35-$45.

We just received ours for testing and if they prove worthy, they will be adding to our site.
 

nugget

Observer
Stauns for me. Been using them for years and they have been extremely reliable and no fuss..and you are doing 4 tyres at once..good value!
 

madizell

Explorer
Having used a variety of tools to deflate tires, including Stauns which I still have and still use, I still believe the fastest inexpensive way to do it is with a core tool, one tire at a time. Practice makes it easy to guess at the current pressure, a gauge confirms the current pressure without the need to reinstall the core, and if you start putting the core in a few pounds above where you want to be, you only have a little bit to adjust and you are done.

The Stauns are relatively easy to use, but don't hold constant pressure settings over time. Dust and grit interfere with the internals and will give you erroneous results, including a completely flat tire if you don't catch the problem. The Staun units need to be maintained from time to time, and kept in a clean storage place. I have used only one Staun to deflate all four tires and come out with different pressures on all four tires. So, I use them and like them because at times they are convenient, but don't really rely on them to set pressure. I use them to get a pressure one to four pounds above my target, and do the rest with a pocket tire gauge. Having used them over and over for years now, I think taking the cores out is almost as fast as using the Stauns if the amount of pressure drop is significant or if you have large tires.

I can't think of a reason why you can't drive -- on the trail -- with the Staun unit releasing pressure as long as they are clean and working well. Done it lots of times, but you have to trust the unit to work as expected, and you should stop and remove them just as soon as enough time has gone by to deflate the tires, which means I would only do this if I was in a hurry to get moving. I would not simply leave them in place during a trail ride. They can burp air and if submerged, can allow water to enter the tire. They are also on the long side and can get stripped off by trail debris. Better to be patient, deflate and set pressures, remove the units, then drive on.
 
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the Rewster

Observer
My system is to cut off those clear tubes that are on fix a flat.
screw one on each tire, then check the first with a gauge on the end of the clear tube. When its at the right pressure just remove them in the same order.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
madizell said:
I can't think of a reason why you can't drive -- on the trail -- with the Staun unit releasing pressure as long as they are clean and working well. Done it lots of times, but you have to trust the unit to work as expected, and you should stop and remove them just as soon as enough time has gone by to deflate the tires, which means I would only do this if I was in a hurry to get moving. I would not simply leave them in place during a trail ride. They can burp air and if submerged, can allow water to enter the tire. They are also on the long side and can get stripped off by trail debris. Better to be patient, deflate and set pressures, remove the units, then drive on.

I set mine up for 15 psi (my "bumpy dirt road" pressure) one afternoon. Went on a trip the next day. Screwed them onto the valve stems, walked away. Came back a bit later to find 4 flat tires.

Hell of a first impression. I won't walk away from mine....let alone drive down the road with them while deflating the tires.
 

kcowyo

ExPo Original
madizell said:
.....but you have to trust the unit to work as expected...

Better to be patient, deflate and set pressures, remove the units, then drive on.

And therein lies the rub...

I've set & reset my Stauns. Checked 'em on the spare a couple of times. Whether I get fat fingered and twist the collar while screwing them on or what, I don't know, but I never get them to 17PSI on the tires. I don't trust the pre-sets at all on the Stauns.

I like the product, but I check 'em as I deflate and I use two at a time, not all four. Works out ok as I keep 2 deflators in the truck and now the other 2 in the 60.

Best way to use them is as advised above. Patiently.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I have the Oasis deflators and I have the same issues, sometimes they get inconsistent in their stop point. I've tried a few different oils and lubes, but it seems after a couple of times out in the dust and dirt they tend to stick and not stop at the setting. I have a very lightweight bearing oil that seems to work the best, but it's anything but a dry lube and I have to be careful about dust. I also will use Pedro's Extra Dry chain (bike) lube and that works fine dirt-wise, but I think it does not let the little ball float free enough and tends to need to start at full street pressure to stop reliably. If I start at dirt road pressure (say 20~25 psi) and try to go to rock pressure (I have them set at 18 psi), they might not fully stop.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
ntsqd said:
I built mine from a McMaster-Carr part and a tire chuck. I only have the one, but it doesn't take that long to shuttle it around. The pop-off valve I used is similar to p/n 48435K72 ($6.60) but is came set at 20 psi. Real world is that it stops deflating at 19 psi.
I have found that it is slower to use it on my Detroit-driven rear tire pressure equalizer hose than it is to use it on one tire at a time.

An alternate McMaster option would be this p/n 48935K25, it is $7.70 and adjustable from 0 to 20 psi.

I've only checked this a couple times. It's been within 2 psi of intended pressure every time I did check it. The trick, though, is to catch them when they stop 'warbling' (or 'farting' if you listen to my friends) and start to just hiss. I very greatly suspect that the variance is due to when I stop it rather than when it stops. With adjustable unit and the clip-on chuck there would be no great possibility of accidentally adjusting it during installation or removal.
 

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