Tire experts needed

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Not a tire expert but drive a 2500 Suburban with around 9,000lbs trailer also. 17" rims are tough to find 125Q and higher rated tires in 35" diameter. If you look for LT315/70R17 and AT tires you will have better luck. Also if you are pulling a 8,000lbs trailer you really should not expect more than 20k miles out of your Toyos.
 

glock7018

Member
I would just find some regular 35 X 12.5 R17's in Load range E which is a common load rating. I prefer to buy my tires on amazon prime. From there I take them to a used tire shop in my area. I'm not sure if those are common where you are at. But they are everywhere in AZ.
 

shade

Well-known member
Due to liability they wouldn't sell or install anything that didn't match the rating on the door sticker of the truck.
The simple solution is to take the wheels & tyres in loose. If they aren't mounted to a vehicle, the shops I've visited don't care what they go on, if TPMS sensors are needed, or anything past payment for mounting services.

You could also give it a try by hand, but that can be a workout.
 

Capital E

Member
Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like the consensus is either get different rims or buy tires loose and have them mounted independently. I really like working with the local Discount tire for free lifetime rotate and balance and flat repair. It's all stuff I could do myself but 35-37" tires are heavy.

Separate rant-why do all aftermarket rims have the fake beadlock?? That's the main reason I went with the AEV's

Ram.jpg
 
Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like the consensus is either get different rims or buy tires loose and have them mounted independently. I really like working with the local Discount tire for free lifetime rotate and balance and flat repair. It's all stuff I could do myself but 35-37" tires are heavy.

Separate rant-why do all aftermarket rims have the fake beadlock?? That's the main reason I went with the AEV's

View attachment 568954
Off topic, nice camper choice. We have an ORV and its been a great unit, getting ready to sell it to downsize, but we enjoyed our time with it..
 

Capital E

Member
Off topic, nice camper choice. We have an ORV and its been a great unit, getting ready to sell it to downsize, but we enjoyed our time with it..

I've been super happy with the camper. I think it's probably one of the highest quality domestic units available. Not that the US is setting the bar very high with camper build quality... We've had it almost two years, towed it 6,000 miles, and probably spent 45+ nights in it with no issues.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Yeah MTs are always louder and tend to wear funky, thats the trade off for better mud traction.

The "ply rating" is a holdover from bias ply tires, it indicates the equivalent cotton plies, actual plies are typically nylon, and 2-3, even for heavier tires. Fewer, but stronger plies, results in a lighter tire with better weight and fuel economy ratings.

Its a pain, but taking the wheels in loose typically avoids this trouble.
 

flylow4500

Observer
With your rim choice you eliminated F rated tires and their 80 psi capability to make tpms happy. Another disadvantage to AEV only making a 17 is you can't take advantage of the great 285/75R18 tire. Basically a 35x11.5 with 80 psi and 4000# ish capacity. 18" is the new 17". I am also aware the 37" is the new 35", for me the disadvantages of a 37 outweigh the positives on a daily driver
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Yep, thats the #1 reason I went from a 17" wheel to an 18" wheel for my Superduty.
And as for the Toyo MTs, I dont understand the hype either.

These days Toyo is the only tire I run on all my vehicles, but the MT does seem to have its problems.

For a full-size that isnt a dedicated wheeler, Im 100% sold on the Toyo AT2

Needing a high capacity SRW tire, I opted for 18" wheels and the 285/75R18 AT2 with a 4080lb per tire load rating.
I also running a matching wheel and spare, in the factory spare location and I do a 5-tire rotation.

Yes, the wheels (les schwab specials) have the silly fake beadlocks, but looks are my last concern.
They perform as intended, and dont look entirely like ********, so roll with it....

48514195421_f9908dc77e_h.jpg
 

shade

Well-known member
It sounds like the consensus is either get different rims or buy tires loose and have them mounted independently. I really like working with the local Discount tire for free lifetime rotate and balance and flat repair.
Check with Discount Tire to see if they'll mount them with the free lifetime rotate & balance package if you first have them mounted loose. I know it doesn't make much sense, but they may work with you if you do it that way.
 

ttengineer

Adventurer
Check with Discount Tire to see if they'll mount them with the free lifetime rotate & balance package if you first have them mounted loose. I know it doesn't make much sense, but they may work with you if you do it that way.

That’s what I did, and they rotate and balance mine every 5k miles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

shade

Well-known member
That’s what I did, and they rotate and balance mine every 5k miles.
I did that with a different chain on a few vehicles that I no longer wanted to screw with using TPMS sensors on extra wheels. They don't bat an eye at lifetime balance & rotation, but said they were legally prohibited from fresh rubber on non-TPMSed wheels and installing that on the vehicle. I have six wheels for my truck, so I drove two at a time to the shop loose, and took them home to mount on my truck, and repeated the process three times.

I'm going to try doing my own tyre work from now on, though. Dynabeads & Tyrepliers for me, I hope.
 

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