olsen_karl
Adventurer
If you want, you can do a cheap semi quick disconnect for the front sway bar by using wing nuts on the top of the sway bar links.
TMC'S XJ project "Fire-Road Runner"
- Thread starter TMC-113
- Start date
TMC-113
Observer
Well, I didnt get to work on the Jeep this weekend, but I did recieve more goodies from the Christmas haul! :wings:
-20ft 3/8" grade 70 chain w/ grab hooks for only $50 with shipping!
-2 3"x6' tree saver straps
-3/4" 7500lb shackle
-plus some more misc parts for a project Im working on.... :Mechanic:
So I sold most/all of my recovery gear when we moved to DC a few years back, so Im having to build back up and this is an AWESOME start (along with the Hi-Lift I got as well)
Side note:
I am a firm believer in the Hi Lift jacks, both as a jack, "winch", and repair tool. My dad used them, I used them in high school, and I used one in Boise with my TJ. Yes, I know winches are easier/safer/quicker, but for someone thats strong/smart/safe enough to use one, they are a viable "budget" option. For me, they have been worth their weight in gold in all the places Ive ever wheeled.
Im also a firm believer in "take care of your equipment, and itll take care of you". Unless I come into an awesome deal on a winch or randomly find money lol, my Hi-Lift will be one of my main go-to trail recovery tools.
:26_7_2:
Thanks for reading and I promise......more updates soon!
-20ft 3/8" grade 70 chain w/ grab hooks for only $50 with shipping!
-2 3"x6' tree saver straps
-3/4" 7500lb shackle
-plus some more misc parts for a project Im working on.... :Mechanic:
So I sold most/all of my recovery gear when we moved to DC a few years back, so Im having to build back up and this is an AWESOME start (along with the Hi-Lift I got as well)
Side note:
I am a firm believer in the Hi Lift jacks, both as a jack, "winch", and repair tool. My dad used them, I used them in high school, and I used one in Boise with my TJ. Yes, I know winches are easier/safer/quicker, but for someone thats strong/smart/safe enough to use one, they are a viable "budget" option. For me, they have been worth their weight in gold in all the places Ive ever wheeled.
Im also a firm believer in "take care of your equipment, and itll take care of you". Unless I come into an awesome deal on a winch or randomly find money lol, my Hi-Lift will be one of my main go-to trail recovery tools.
:26_7_2:
Thanks for reading and I promise......more updates soon!
unkamonkey
Explorer
-20ft 3/8" grade 70 chain w/ grab hooks for only $50 with shipping!
-2 3"x6' tree saver straps
-3/4" 7500lb shackle
-plus some more misc parts for a project Im working on.... :Mechanic:
So I sold most/all of my recovery gear when we moved to DC a few years back, so Im having to build back up and this is an AWESOME start (along with the Hi-Lift I got as well)
Side note:
I am a firm believer in the Hi Lift jacks, both as a jack, "winch", and repair tool. My dad used them, I used them in high school, and I used one in Boise with my TJ. Yes, I know winches are easier/safer/quicker, but for someone thats strong/smart/safe enough to use one, they are a viable "budget" option. For me, they have been worth their weight in gold in all the places Ive ever wheeled.
Im also a firm believer in "take care of your equipment, and itll take care of you". Unless I come into an awesome deal on a winch or randomly find money lol, my Hi-Lift will be one of my main go-to trail recovery tools.
:26_7_2:
Thanks for reading and I promise......more updates soon![/QUOTE]
Some people will get disturbed apout using a chain. I've used them for years without problems.
I have 2 tree straps, one is some military strap and the other came from an aluminun recycling place around here. Red thread showing so it wasn't legal to use anymore in the plant.
A snatch block or 2 is always handy, we have needed 2 a few times.
All of the people I wheel with have winches. I'm the only one with a PTO so I seem to be the one that does the winching.
I usually throw the Hi Lift in the Jeep but I can only think of one time I used it on the Jeep for recovery. Usually it is to help level the camper.
I have never lubricated my Hi Lift, It works fine after 30 years. My neighbor has to spray lots of stuff on his to get it to work. I think that once you start spraying them down, all you are doing is making them dirt magnets.
-2 3"x6' tree saver straps
-3/4" 7500lb shackle
-plus some more misc parts for a project Im working on.... :Mechanic:
So I sold most/all of my recovery gear when we moved to DC a few years back, so Im having to build back up and this is an AWESOME start (along with the Hi-Lift I got as well)
Side note:
I am a firm believer in the Hi Lift jacks, both as a jack, "winch", and repair tool. My dad used them, I used them in high school, and I used one in Boise with my TJ. Yes, I know winches are easier/safer/quicker, but for someone thats strong/smart/safe enough to use one, they are a viable "budget" option. For me, they have been worth their weight in gold in all the places Ive ever wheeled.
Im also a firm believer in "take care of your equipment, and itll take care of you". Unless I come into an awesome deal on a winch or randomly find money lol, my Hi-Lift will be one of my main go-to trail recovery tools.
:26_7_2:
Thanks for reading and I promise......more updates soon![/QUOTE]
Some people will get disturbed apout using a chain. I've used them for years without problems.
I have 2 tree straps, one is some military strap and the other came from an aluminun recycling place around here. Red thread showing so it wasn't legal to use anymore in the plant.
A snatch block or 2 is always handy, we have needed 2 a few times.
All of the people I wheel with have winches. I'm the only one with a PTO so I seem to be the one that does the winching.
I usually throw the Hi Lift in the Jeep but I can only think of one time I used it on the Jeep for recovery. Usually it is to help level the camper.
I have never lubricated my Hi Lift, It works fine after 30 years. My neighbor has to spray lots of stuff on his to get it to work. I think that once you start spraying them down, all you are doing is making them dirt magnets.
TMC-113
Observer
Yeah! They may seem like "mild" trails to some, but I love how many there are and how far back they can go. Plus, some of the views in northern Idaho are spectacular! Not to mention all the rivers, streams, and alpine lakes! :drool:
Thanks! They are growing on me....I would sell them to you if I could get them to ya!
Thanks! They are growing on me....I would sell them to you if I could get them to ya!
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TMC-113
Observer
So I got some more wrenching time in on the Jeep today. Two weeks ago I found a Reese Tow-power class 3 hitch on sale cheap online and jumped on it. It got here thursday but wasnt able to work on it until today.
Now I know most wont be interested in reading about a hitch install, but I know there are people out there that search for stuff like this. (I know I have been there before) Also, some hitches dont come with instructions or they are very vague.
The hitch has multiple mount options based on if you have a 96- or 97+:
-factory gas tank skid (has passenger nut strip)
-factory rear tow hook (has drivers nut strip)
-or a model without either of the above (will need to use the supplied hardware or buy OEM/aftermarket nut strips)
Fortunately my XJ has both so I have the nut strips on both sides. If you dont have either or just one, you will have to fish the supplied carriage bolts and plates through the rear of the "frame rail." It sounds tedious, but with the supplied "fishing" wire, its rather easy.
This is the factory tow hook. You have to remove the 3 bolts holding the bracket/hook on or else you cannot install the hitch
You need to remove the two rear gas tank skid bolts as well as loosen the front two to where about 1/4in gap is showing between it and the "frame rail"
Now the hitch will need to be slid in up above the gas tank skid to where it is sandwiched between the skid and the "frame rail"
Then its just a matter of lining it all up and installing the bolts
The final step (on a 96-) is to remove the front gas tank skid bolts and insert the supplied washers as spacers and reinstall the factory bolts. Then torque all hardware down to spec
Here is a before and after. For those who say hitches affect ground clearance, that may very well be true but I believe this Reese model does not.
After all is said and done, I am very happy with how it went and how it looks. The nut strips made it SO much simpler. The only thing that took awhile is having to drive 40 min total in to town to get a 18mm socket.
[Side note: I hate that most major brands don't include them in their socket sets as well as wrench sets. Oh well, I have them now :lol: ]
Once that was done some WD-40 and my 17" breaker bar made quick work of it. :boxing:
[Another side note: I consider myself very very lucky to have an XJ with:
-no rust (thank you PNW)
-freshly rebuilt motor (thanks PO)
-NON sagging leafs (see pics)
-NO DW/driveline vibe (3" lift with no SYE or TC drop)
-consistent 17+ mpg city/hwy combined]
Also, before it started to rain I finally got the gun rack (JY find) mounted and I think it will work out great. This is the only picture I got when it was still in "mock-up", but I think the finished result looks and works great. You can also see one of the items I got in my Christmas stocking from my wife (the shovel not the tire iron)...now I just need to find my axe and small clamps in storage and I can consider it done!
Don't mind my missing headliner material, that is one of the MANY things on my To-Do list once spring/summer get here.
I have a couple small projects still coming down the pike, so stay tuned!
Now I know most wont be interested in reading about a hitch install, but I know there are people out there that search for stuff like this. (I know I have been there before) Also, some hitches dont come with instructions or they are very vague.
The hitch has multiple mount options based on if you have a 96- or 97+:
-factory gas tank skid (has passenger nut strip)
-factory rear tow hook (has drivers nut strip)
-or a model without either of the above (will need to use the supplied hardware or buy OEM/aftermarket nut strips)
Fortunately my XJ has both so I have the nut strips on both sides. If you dont have either or just one, you will have to fish the supplied carriage bolts and plates through the rear of the "frame rail." It sounds tedious, but with the supplied "fishing" wire, its rather easy.
This is the factory tow hook. You have to remove the 3 bolts holding the bracket/hook on or else you cannot install the hitch
You need to remove the two rear gas tank skid bolts as well as loosen the front two to where about 1/4in gap is showing between it and the "frame rail"
Now the hitch will need to be slid in up above the gas tank skid to where it is sandwiched between the skid and the "frame rail"
Then its just a matter of lining it all up and installing the bolts
The final step (on a 96-) is to remove the front gas tank skid bolts and insert the supplied washers as spacers and reinstall the factory bolts. Then torque all hardware down to spec
Here is a before and after. For those who say hitches affect ground clearance, that may very well be true but I believe this Reese model does not.
After all is said and done, I am very happy with how it went and how it looks. The nut strips made it SO much simpler. The only thing that took awhile is having to drive 40 min total in to town to get a 18mm socket.
[Side note: I hate that most major brands don't include them in their socket sets as well as wrench sets. Oh well, I have them now :lol: ]
Once that was done some WD-40 and my 17" breaker bar made quick work of it. :boxing:
[Another side note: I consider myself very very lucky to have an XJ with:
-no rust (thank you PNW)
-freshly rebuilt motor (thanks PO)
-NON sagging leafs (see pics)
-NO DW/driveline vibe (3" lift with no SYE or TC drop)
-consistent 17+ mpg city/hwy combined]
Also, before it started to rain I finally got the gun rack (JY find) mounted and I think it will work out great. This is the only picture I got when it was still in "mock-up", but I think the finished result looks and works great. You can also see one of the items I got in my Christmas stocking from my wife (the shovel not the tire iron)
...now I just need to find my axe and small clamps in storage and I can consider it done!
Don't mind my missing headliner material, that is one of the MANY things on my To-Do list once spring/summer get here.
I have a couple small projects still coming down the pike, so stay tuned!
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jscusmcvet
Explorer
I agree with your sentiments about the hitch. Any clearance you "lost" is also protecting your gas tank, etc.... Nice build so far. I also agree on the hi lift. Although I am a firm believer in the winch... back when I could not afford one, I used the hi lift regularly and effectively.
TMC-113
Observer
Finally sold the black steelies with winter tires! I purchased some tools and a new set of jack stands with the money.
(Another item I previously sold with the D.C. move)
I also recieved my Zone 3" front coils and shocks from a Cherokee Forum member via the FedEx guy on thursday, thanks again Guntar13!
Now I just gotta sell my factory Upcountry coils/spacers and factory rear tow hook.
Once the warm weather is here, Ill be building a dakota pack for the rear.
Now we're getting somewhere.
(Another item I previously sold with the D.C. move)
I also recieved my Zone 3" front coils and shocks from a Cherokee Forum member via the FedEx guy on thursday, thanks again Guntar13!
Now I just gotta sell my factory Upcountry coils/spacers and factory rear tow hook.
Once the warm weather is here, Ill be building a dakota pack for the rear.
Now we're getting somewhere.
TMC-113
Observer
Wow. It's been awhile since I've had an update. The weather here has been so screwy recently...
Received a box via FedEx at work from a Cherokee Forum member, thanks again Guntar!
:wings:
Inside were Zone Off-road 3" coils and matching Zone Nitro front shocks. I didn't get many pictures of the install because I was once again fighting against the daylight. (MAN I need to get a place with a garage or shop)
I felt like it all went pretty smooth considering I:
a)didn't unbolt any control arms or the track bar
b)only had a few hours to do it
c)didn't use spring compressors
d)don't have a nice floor jack since I dont have a place to keep it
Here it is all set up and ready to start (dont judge my scissor jack)
Here are the Zone 3" coils waiting to go in
I just unbolted the top sway bar bolt, unbolted the bottom of the shock, and let the axle fully drop down. I then used a jack on the opposite side to force the axle down.
Out with the old.....
.....and in with the new! Looks like I need to order some new bumpstops. They are missing from both sides. :Wow1:
Here is the difference between shocks. Im not sure if the old ones were factory or not. Its hard to tell since there isnt really rust on this thing.
Now I know there may have been some "easier" ways to do this: floor jack, unbolting control arms/track bar, and coil spring compressors etc
...but honestly, I live in a little town 45 minutes (round trip) away from any auto parts store and I just wanted to get this done. If I was installing a taller coil or a spacer with the current one I would have DEFINITELY used one or more of the above options. But everything I read before hand said it should be easy since it was considered "less than 3 inches total" and it turns out, it was!
FYI: the coils, shocks, and spacers are for sale if any other "budget minded" or "mild build" members are looking
More parts and updates coming soon. Stick around!
Received a box via FedEx at work from a Cherokee Forum member, thanks again Guntar!
:wings:
Inside were Zone Off-road 3" coils and matching Zone Nitro front shocks. I didn't get many pictures of the install because I was once again fighting against the daylight. (MAN I need to get a place with a garage or shop)
I felt like it all went pretty smooth considering I:
a)didn't unbolt any control arms or the track bar
b)only had a few hours to do it
c)didn't use spring compressors
d)don't have a nice floor jack since I dont have a place to keep it
Here it is all set up and ready to start (dont judge my scissor jack)
Here are the Zone 3" coils waiting to go in
I just unbolted the top sway bar bolt, unbolted the bottom of the shock, and let the axle fully drop down. I then used a jack on the opposite side to force the axle down.
Out with the old.....
.....and in with the new! Looks like I need to order some new bumpstops. They are missing from both sides. :Wow1:
Here is the difference between shocks. Im not sure if the old ones were factory or not. Its hard to tell since there isnt really rust on this thing.
Now I know there may have been some "easier" ways to do this: floor jack, unbolting control arms/track bar, and coil spring compressors etc
...but honestly, I live in a little town 45 minutes (round trip) away from any auto parts store and I just wanted to get this done. If I was installing a taller coil or a spacer with the current one I would have DEFINITELY used one or more of the above options. But everything I read before hand said it should be easy since it was considered "less than 3 inches total" and it turns out, it was!
FYI: the coils, shocks, and spacers are for sale if any other "budget minded" or "mild build" members are looking
More parts and updates coming soon. Stick around!
