Trailer Brakes?

jwiereng

Active member
Martyn,

Since Suzuki Samurai was mentioned, do you have a list of common springs and approximate weight rating?

I am becoming aware of the low performance of off the shelf trailer springs. Cheap, but not much else desirable about them.
 

NevetsG

Active member
Trailer brakes, OH HELL YES, and get a brake controller too.

No I don't have a CDL, but I've owned many trailers including several RVs, and brakes make a HUGE difference in performance - anywhere. Putting a truck and trailer into motion is easy, but stopping them is not. I currently have a tiny Fleetwood Neon popup with a GVW of 1500 lbs (I think it has a 2000 lb axle) with brakes and I'm using my Jeep TJ (2 door) to pull it. Before I installed my brake controller (never run electric brakes without one unless you like the smell of burning rubber), my stopping distance sucked (even unloaded at 950 lbs), and it liked to push my little Jeep out of track if I was a little aggressive with the stop. After the controller was installed and the brakes were online, stopping was much better and much more controlled, and confidence was elevated.

Controllers are very simple devices, and I got a cheapo $40 one, and, yes, dialing it in took a little extra time (no setting display). I've also owned an expensive controller, and it wasn't any better, except it had a numerical display showing my setting.

Keep in mind, Jeeps are not well known for their stopping ability.
 
Last edited:

Teardropper

Well-known member
Do some research before buying a torsion axle. They don’t perform that well off road...

okD7OcU.jpg


Me and the U.S. Army disagree. Torsion axles work great on the pavement and the dirt.

T
 

ottsville

Observer
Me and the U.S. Army disagree.

I love when people use organizations that dole out contracts to the lowest bidder as an endorsement.

I do trust your personal experience though. Martyn did some testing of torsion axles and shared his results here in older threads.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Martyn,

Since Suzuki Samurai was mentioned, do you have a list of common springs and approximate weight rating?

I am becoming aware of the low performance of off the shelf trailer springs. Cheap, but not much else desirable about them.
Sorry no info on the Samurai springs. Over the years I have seen a lot of home built Trailers use the set up and be very happy with it.

Standard trailer springs are not suited for off road use. You need something around 36” long with a wrapped eye as a minimum.
 

REasley

Adventurer
I run Samurai springs on my trailer and am very pleased with them. I would use Sammy rear springs as the fronts are nearly flat. And Martyn is correct. they are 36" long and that longer spring gives a softer ride and greater suspension travel. As for load capacity, as Samurai weighs in around 2000 lbs, so maybe around 1000 lbs or a little less for rear springs.

Brakes on an off road trailer are a must, in my opinion. I've used them manually many times for stability on down hill sections in both loose rock and mud.
 

jacobconroy

Hillbilly of Leisure
As everyone say get the trailer brakes. Do some research before buying a torsion axle. They don’t perform that well off road, and there is no field repair if they fail. For your light weight trailer some Suzuki Samurai leaf spring might be a better alternative.

One of my trailers was built by Martyn & Co., which reminded me of something. The Chaser has 10 inch brakes (I think), and when you apply the trailer brake it will lock up the wheels when calibrating. The camper trailer has a torsion axle and 7 inch brakes, and they will not lock up no matter how much power you send to them.

It isn't a difference in wiring (all has been replaced and/or checked). Is this sort of difference between 10 and 7 inch brakes typical? Just curious.
 
Sorry no info on the Samurai springs. Over the years I have seen a lot of home built Trailers use the set up and be very happy with it.

Standard trailer springs are not suited for off road use. You need something around 36” long with a wrapped eye as a minimum.

Another option for longer/softer rate springs are Jeep Cherokee rear springs. I’ve used them on several trailers with good results. They are the same dimensions as pre ‘04(?) Dakota springs, but have the full eye wrap.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
One of my trailers was built by Martyn & Co., which reminded me of something. The Chaser has 10 inch brakes (I think), and when you apply the trailer brake it will lock up the wheels when calibrating. The camper trailer has a torsion axle and 7 inch brakes, and they will not lock up no matter how much power you send to them.

It isn't a difference in wiring (all has been replaced and/or checked). Is this sort of difference between 10 and 7 inch brakes typical? Just curious.
The 10” brakes will lock up the wheel if enough power is directed to them via the controller. The brakes shouldn’t lock up under normal usage, I would first check the amount of power being sent to the brakes, then check brake adjustment. If you are still having issues it’s internal and could be the magnet, the hub out of round, or issues with the brake shoes. If the hubs are good I’d just replace the whole brake backing plate as all the components will be new.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Another option for longer/softer rate springs are Jeep Cherokee rear springs. I’ve used them on several trailers with good results. They are the same dimensions as pre ‘04(?) Dakota springs, but have the full eye wrap.
Yes these are also good options worth looking into.
 

Ovrlnd Rd

Adventurer
Me and the U.S. Army disagree.

I love when people use organizations that dole out contracts to the lowest bidder as an endorsement.

That's the lowest bidder that meets a strict set of requirements. They don't just throw out a contract for a trailer and give it to someone that comes up with one $5 cheaper than the next guy. THEN they go through extensive testing before ever being fielded to make sure they'll hold up. Ask Schutt what it took to get their trailers into the Army.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Every state has its own law regarding brakes. The limit for California is 1500#, Alaska is 5000#. Check with your state. Canada is 2950#. The trailer part of the brakes is simple but you need a battery. The truck part, the controller is far more complex but you can get plug & play controllers for almost every popular tow vehicle which don't require cutting any wires. Two basic technologies for controllers, proportional which increase braking as you press harder on the pedal and the cheap one, which simply increases power the longer your foot is on the pedal. I'd only do the proportional controller.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Will adding trailer brake hubs make the hub face distance greater?
The trailer brake flange is not on the hub. It is part of the spindle and I've never seen them "added. The axle is either an idler without the flange,

507136

or it has the flange and brakes can be added anytime. You only move the wheel the thickness of the brake drum. About an eighth of an inch.

507137
 

billiebob

Well-known member
The big advantage of torsion springs is low profile since the wheel centerline can be higher than the frame rail. The advantage of leafs and spring over axles is high profile and ground clearance. But either choice will ride and perform fine when designed correctly.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,368
Messages
2,885,051
Members
226,303
Latest member
guapstyle
Top