Trailer Harness
- Thread starter Storz
- Start date
Storz
Explorer
Anyone use this kit from Drawtight? Seems like a steal at just 34 bucks
http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Wiring/Land-Rover/Discovery/2002/119175KIT.html?vehicleid=20025803
http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Wiring/Land-Rover/Discovery/2002/119175KIT.html?vehicleid=20025803
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I think that's basically what I used.
Storz
Explorer
Did you just clip off the stock plug on the rover and splice into it...?
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Yup. I never use scotchloks. Just soldered new connections. There is a 12V power lead in there you can use for the isolator. I believe it's pink with a brown stripe. The connector should have 2 large pins, and a number of smaller ones. One of the large spades is power, the other is ground.
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rovertech
Observer
If you are handy with a test light do your own harness. Just get a converter for the brake/tail lights and whatever trailer socket you need. It's easy. I believe AB kits are all flat 4? The factory trailer socket is useless anyway IMHO.
Storz
Explorer
The factory trailer socket is useless anyway IMHO.
Why is that, just not reliable?
rovertech
Observer
I have yet to see a trailer in the states have that style socket. I could be wrong here but I think it is a European plug we don't use. At the dealer we would cut them off and solder in 6 or 7 pin style plugs for our customers. Either one adapts down to 4 flat so you have some versatility.
The main reason is because it does not have a seperate power supply that is fused.
When ever you add trailer wires you want to have a seperate powered unit so the factory wiring triggers the unit but the actual power is drawn outside the factory wiring.
That way if the trailer developes a short(really common) the factory wiring is not exposed to a higher amp draw then it is intended to see.
Trailers with alot of extra running lights can also cause all kinds of issues with factory wiring so having the seperate powered trailer connector prevents any of these issues.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
My truck came already wired, and I converted it anyway. The factory 7 pin plug is useless here. You can pay lots of money for a Hella7 to 4 pin flat connector, but then what if you need a 7 pin RV for trailer brakes. 4 pin converter into a 7 pin RV converter? It's stupid, so I just removed it all.
Storz
Explorer
Other than price any reason to not just order this and plug it in?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9439C.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9439C.cfm
that unit does not apear to be self powered.
I know this sounds like a small deal but its not.
trailers are known for having coroded sockets where the bulbs plug in. when that happens they can short out and then the trucks wire harnes takes a increased load until the fuse blows.
rovers have enough issues as it is.
I had to deal with a P38 with a strange BECU issue, it ended up being from a trailer harness that had failed from a shorted trailer.
The best cheap solution is a simple kit like this that has a short protection fuse built into it.
http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Wiring/Land-Rover/Discovery/2004/119175KIT.html?vehicleid=20045803
here is the key part of this one LOL
thats a joke 5 to 6 amps LOL that connector fries like a egg once a bulb gets shorted.
Storz
Explorer
Ordered it up this morning.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
There's a helpful write-up here, with the wire colours. In addition, you just need the Pink/Brown for power, which isn't listed.
http://www.discoweb.org/trailerwire/index.htm
http://www.discoweb.org/trailerwire/index.htm