Trailer suspension options?

Brettski

Observer
Suspension expert, I am not. For an off-road capable (read: high clearance & rugged enough for sideways loads), what setup is best? Most cost effective? Most reliable, cost or other factors? Pro/cons of each? Thought this might be helpful for others too.

1. Straight axle
2. Drop axle
3. Axle-less

Combined with
A. Leaf springs
B. Airbags
C. Other?

Mounted over/under etc?
 

Fooman1856

New member
I will be following closely to this as I am having trouble making my mind up on suspension. The more I read the more indecisive I get .
 

KingAirNeal

Adventurer
I am building mine and installed the Timbren. I LOVE it. Don't make my mistake though, and wait until you get it before you drill the mounting holes. LOL

22e1749274729814ea6dd47d090420f8.jpg


cb2b4e6cff1c8f04426af66dcd4ccee2.jpg



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KingAirNeal

Adventurer
Also, I have the "1 Tonne" system, straight axle, no lift or drop, and on JK takeoff wheels, I have 18+ inches of ground clearance, very nice ride and good travel so far. My trailer floor sits around 24 inches I think?


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Brettski

Observer
I have a M416 that I have been working on for a while and I'm looking at Timbren Axle-Less Suspension. Looks easy enough to install and you don't have to worry about an axle getting hung up on a rock. I have heard a lot of good things about this product and I'm most likely going with it.

http://timbren.com/products-page/3500hd/asr35hds05/

Watch the video at the link above (it's only like 30 sec). I noticed that the support "arm" to the wheel is mounted sort of in front of the tire. Won't that smash into a rock before the tire has a chance to touch the rock and go up and over it? Seems like I'd be dragging it a lot, no?

Here is a screen shot from the video (I added an arrow pointing to what I mean):

timbrenaxlesless.jpg
 

workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
progressive bumpstop acting as airspring/shock absorber/bumpstop all-in-one

Here is the link to my build using a single link air bag solution with a pan hard bar. It works beautifully, can be adjusted for height/load easily and is relatively cheap to build.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77927-quot-Old-Man-s-Toy-quot-offroad-teardrop-trailer

Post #2 shows pix.
View attachment 375431

On my squareback trailer, having had spring or hanger breakage before, I made my own "airbag substitute" to use in-between my axle and frame. Copied from a previous post:
...but from what I have seen in the past if you remove too many springs..

that the springs often break where there is no support underneath them

think of them as a foundation that flattens out when under load & flexing, when they collapse the one underneath supports it

if you remove one long one & leave too short of a one, the longer spring basically tries to flex down past the supporting one & breaks at the fulcrum point....
The quote above was the focal point of my recent trailer suspension re-build (its not a M101CDN, though my trailer is rather heavy at 1600-1800 lbs-trying new configurations-; maybe comparing apples to oranges?). Since I feared having my springs flatten-out, if over-flexed, breaking the spring (broke one on my car-hauler), and/or causing a hanger to tear off the frame at that point (happened once on my little trailer, spurring my alternative approach), I put a bump stop made to stop those mishaps from happening again. However, I wanted to have a progressive response from the bump stop, before the limit of travel is reached. The axle (on my "being modified for soft-roading" trailer) has only 1.125" of travel from normal ride height to suspension at full droop, so I thought that the use of standard shock absorbers would not be beneficial, and opted for a non-standard approach: a progressive bump stop to serve both functions. It acts like a hollow air spring (like a Timbren Aeon $$$, Sumo, or like found on the old Ford Model A shocks -"balls"-, and similar on several older European models). I modified it to fit, and softened its "rate" (by removing the hard/stiff top). I had experience using poly bump stops on several of my trucks, and thought that the Daystar "progressive" would need little mods to fill my needs. I've tested it, in actual on-road use, and "simulated off-road" terrain (pot-holes, speedbumps, whoop-de-doos), and it does well. I can even soften the rate more, if I choose to. If you, the OP, want to use "soft-er" springs on your M101CDN, but wish to avoid the consequences of over-flexing under over-loading or rough impact, consider this approach (or similar). It works well on the road, and on dirt roads, but I haven't been into any real bad topography (no 4wd yet), so I haven't needed to see if I need to soften the compression rate, by cutting through the center filament (will compress more-and-quicker, and increase travel somewhat).
 

old_man

Adventurer
I have a commercial account with RedNeck Trailers and have eye'd the Timbren axles. I like the clearance, but I worried about the axle movement under hard braking and the possibility of hitting it on the rocks. If I used them I would make a skid from the frame down to the mechanism to make it ride up over rocks. I run a minimum of 31" tires so it isn't as much of an issue, but I go over some really nasty trails.
 

changed4ever

Observer
I have a commercial account with RedNeck Trailers and have eye'd the Timbren axles. I like the clearance, but I worried about the axle movement under hard braking and the possibility of hitting it on the rocks. If I used them I would make a skid from the frame down to the mechanism to make it ride up over rocks. I run a minimum of 31" tires so it isn't as much of an issue, but I go over some really nasty trails.

Just be sure Redneck doesn't send you the Dexter "equivalent" when you order. Found it best to just call Timbren and order what we need through them


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Waters

New member
I'm building a trailer now and built an axle from some DOM tubing, welded on the spindles, spring perches and shock mounts. I elected to go this way because I wanted a custom size axle with a hub face of 70". After I built it I found a site (forget which one) that basically offered exactly what I needed for about the same cost as all my parts, plus it had brakes. Could have saved some time and a little cost had I known, but I do like the fact that I chose my axle components and built a pretty beefy axle.

I looked really hard into flexiride torsion axles which I may use if I do this again, but ended up going with what I had more experience with- solid axle and leaf springs.

For springs I used OME leaf springs for an XJ. They are very long. I'm still in the build phase so the trailer hasn't hit the road yet but the suspension is assembled and it feels like it should ride very nice. Shackles also for an XJ. For shocks I got Rancho 5000. Axle is mounted above the spring as the spring gave me plenty of lift already.

One thing to note is trailer parts seem to be standardized, and dont seem to mesh up with automotive parts, as a result I had to fabricate spring plates, get custom u-bolts bent, tinker with some bushings, tough to find spring perches that fit, etc. It all turned out clean when finished but just extra work. Trailer build-http://www.febuilt.com/expedition-trailer-build-.html
 
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