trailing arm same as the lower arm?

[Styyy]

the bushings on the large bars that come off the front of the rear axel and run forward to a bracket on the chassis,have dried and cracked,Im looking to replace them,trying to figure out exactly what they are called? the FSM call them ,"lower arms". While rockauto ,I think,refers to them as trailing arms.
thanks.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

There are no other arms on the rear like you would find on a 4 link setup, so yes these would technically be both the lower arms and trailing arms.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Is this what you found http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2221700&cc=1430290

 

[off-roader]

To add to that, the name trailing arms is the common name for that part. Different manufacturers will also have their own name that they use and as has been noted in this case, they are one and the same.

Bear in mind you can also use the Mitsubishi ASA app (Windows or Windows VM on a Mac) to determine the correct Mitsu Part Number which you can then sometimes use to cross reference the part.

HTH!

 

[Styyy]

Thats it. Thanks for the help. Suspension is a little sloppy for me. So Im slowly replacing the stuff thats worn out. New Bilsteins made a huge difference,sway bar bushings helped,now some bushings,then mabey tackle the steering. Im on the fence about a spring upgrade and mabey cranking the torsion bars to firm up the front?? Any experience?
thanks.

 

[off-roader]

Which spring upgrade do you mean. There are a few. Personally I like the stock progressive rate springs so for added lift I added 2" spring spacers (ones made for a Toyota Sequoia).

For cranking the torsion bars they do fee a little bit stiffer but I like the feeling myself. I didn't go crazy cranking them however. Just enough to fit the 35's.

 

[Styyy]

I have the stock springs,Im not sure if they are just tired(159,000 miles) or an upgrae is warranted. I was thinking OME, not many options ironman,ome and oem.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

I actually called up a shop today that sells both the OME and the Ironman lift and he said to go with the OME because it's a much more progressive rate spring. And FYI, cranking the stock torsion bars will limit wheel travel. Why do you think you need to crank them anyway, aren't you only running 31's?

 

[Styyy]

Yup,running 31's, not craking them to raise the vehicle just to firm up the front suspension.

 

[JamesW]

You can re-index them in that case,rather than cranking them. For this you need to mark where the current splines are going into the wishbone,and turn it one spline,and crank them to the desired height,This will firm up the ride without adding height

 

[Mudrunner]

You can re-index them in that case,rather than cranking them. For this you need to mark where the current splines are going into the wishbone,and turn it one spline,and crank them to the desired height,This will firm up the ride without adding height

Video, pictures, hieroglyphs... something to show us what you mean. I have never worked on torsion bars, I get the basics of idea of how to use them to raise the vehicle. But you give a new idea.

 

[Styyy]

I understand the premise of indexing them,but why wouldnt just turning the adjustor the same amount on each side work? Just take measurements before doing so ,to make sure your not actually raising the vehicle? The best way would be to have a scale at each front wheel and even them out by adjusting the torsion bars. Its the same process I used setting up my car for the track,by adjusting the coilovers. But would be overkill for a montero!

 

[JamesW]

My pajero is at my friends at the minute having some surgery,so i'll get some pictures when I can.

Basically the torsion bars have splines on them,the splines slip into splined holes on the wishbones,and are anchored to the chassis on the other end of the bar. For the right hand side front one (looking from the back) as the wheel travels up the bar twists anti clockwise, and as it goes down it twists clockwise.

The bars themselves don't actually twist much,but the more they are twisted makes the suspension harder,but when you slot them into the wishbone you can turn them by one spline,doing this will alter the amount of "pre-twist" the more of this pre-twist it has the firmer it will be.

When the bolt is turned in say half way,with the bars indexed to the factory spec the front will sit at the factory height. With the bars indexed one spline anti clockwise it will sit a bit lower with the bolt in half way,however you can then wind the bolt in a bit further,which will raise the front up a bit,and also give the bars a bit of "pre-twist" making them harder. This will make the from sit at the standard height,but will give a firmer ride.

I hope that I described it clearly (it made sense in my head) but if I haven't give me a message and i'll try make it clearer

 

[Mudrunner]

I get it! Thanks I appreciate it very much.

 

[mapper]

If you tighten the torsion bars it will lift the vehicle. The torsion bars are springs (the spring action from twisting the metal bar) designed to carry a specific load, you can't "make the suspension harder" or stiffer without installing different bars rated at a higher load capacity. If your T bars are old and fatigued the front end will droop, you can use the adjustment to raise the front back to stock height, or more, but be careful as the bars will still be fatigued and will have lost some down travel as a result. This will be more evident if "crank" or tighten the T bars because the suspension will hit maximum droop earlier than it was original designed to.