Uganda self safari; mission work and charging elephants

[outinthewoods]

I'm going to do my best as giving a good recap of my January trip to Uganda.
I hope you enjoy!


So the church I attend is really focused on what it can do with it's resources to be a positive influence on the needs of orphans all over the world. Our pastor has 12 kids... 9 adopted. It's like they are kid hoarders! So they have built a pretty solid relationship with several Orphanages and Boy's homes in and around the capital city Kampala.

I had the opportunity to go this year, and I jumped at the chance. Except I had a like minded buddy going with me; here after we shall be known only as the adventure junkies.



We set the tone by buying our plane tickets separate of everyone else, that way we set it up to leave several days early and enjoy long layovers in Germany, Ethiopia and Belgium. We also stayed late to go on a Self Safari.


Uganda and it's capital city Kampala get a lot of mixed reviews. Some say it's great and stable, others say it's dangerous. It was close to the elections while we where there, ad certainly there was some fear over more riots as past election years have seen.

a common sight:

I'll tell you up front I never never been in a more welcoming and friendly place. People where nothing but kind and open.

We stayed at a place called http://www.namirembe-guesthouse.com/

it was not fancy, but well priced with fantastic staff.

Here is the view from our room

Although we where warned not to venture into the city alone, heeding that sort of advice just isn't in my nature. Nor is in my travel companions, which is why we had such a great trip.
We immediately started exploring the city. Looking mostly for interesting people, interesting trucks, and food.

just walking

we found the auto parts store! which was the most incredible example of reuse I have ever seen! these guys use everything over and over, they where carving gaskets and bushings out of old tires!!

 

[outinthewoods]

more auto parts

Food is very simple and fairly bland IMO Except for the sun dried goat meat (read out in the diesel fumes all day) which was far far away from bland.
this is a very typical meal

Alright, I need to continue this later. I promise there is more!

 

[FeralBoy]

we found the auto parts store! which was the most incredible example of reuse I have ever seen! these guys use everything over and over, they where carving gaskets and bushings out of old tires!!

I bet that counter guy would embarass anyone at any NAPA, anywhere...

 

[outinthewoods]

Kampala is incredibly congested, traffic is staggering and this is only made worse by the complete lack of traffic lights, signs or other. I tell you I live in a mountain town of 14000. I almost died trying to cross the street well over a dozen times. My mind just does't work fast enough to keep up with motorcycles hopping the curbs and buses on the wrong side of the road.

That being said riding the boda bodas is so fun especially when you get a crazy driver who has no regard for you general safety.

Boda bodas

While working in Kampala we got to work on some cool projects; land surveying, street kid feeding programs, finishing a school building, and getting our butts kicked at soccer.

The school we worked on:

By far the best thing was just getting to know people there. The men we meet who have literally dedicated their lives to helping the orphans and street kids, and the kids them selves. They have an openness, an earnestness and desire to be loved that is not hidden. I am forever changed from it.

one of the boys I got to hang with:

 

[outinthewoods]

My friend and I knew we wanted to do a safari. We where not sure how though to make it happen. While in the states I contacted several self drive and group safari companies. The most frustrating thing from that experience is I was always quoted several Thousand for a 4 day safari. There where no reputable self drive companies that I could find in kampala.

So, against my nature we decided to just go and figure it out when we got there. This turned out to be a great idea. I visited in person a few of the companies offering group safaris in the budget to midrange price, and suddenly the prices where more in the $600 USD range. Although be forewarned this will entail being on a Toyota minibus with several retired Germans. (no offense meant to the fine people of Germany)

As fearful as we where of being in a completely new environment, we couldn't let go of the idea of a self drive. We began calling car hire services and looking for either a Defender 110 or a Land cruiser 70 series.
It was very easy to find Prado Land cruisers, Impossible to find (for hire)Defenders, and we did find many Land cruiser 70 series, although its good to note there was a breakdown on communicating what we wanted, turns out they have no idea what a 70 series is. They know them only as Prado's and Safari cruisers. Prado's could be had for between 70usd and 140usd. The Safari cruisers went for on average 150-170usd with a driver, or 190+ without a driver.

The guest house we where staying at runs a Safari company (of the minibus elderly german kind) talking to the woman who runs it, she told us she had a friend who rents cruisers. We figured this was a good recommendation, and it did turn out to be one of the safari companies we had looked in too, so all seemed on the up and up.

We rented the 1989 diesel beast with driver (under the understanding we would do much of the driving) Decided on going to Murchison Falls state park for four days, and then changed our minds and decided on Queen Elizabeth State park because its close to the mountains, the gorillas, and the Congo. Oh, and we took our new friend George with us, he had never been out of Kampala his whole life, and he is a fascinating guy to hang out with.

George, and yes Shawn's camera is pink.

So I'm leaving out who we rented the truck from, because while our guide was fantastic (he works independent) for these reasons: it was in not fantastic shape, and have you ever drove in a 23 year old cruiser with the original suspension(this thing had like 15 leafs per side in the back!) on bad tires inflated to only god knows how much over the recommendation on the worst roads Africa has to offer (the Congo trip report had worse roads I admit) I'm not kidding when I tell you my back still hurts.

on our way out of town we realized a tire was missing it's weight by the violent shaking in the steering wheel, and the fact that you could see where the weight used to be.

We had to go to 4 TIRE shops to find one that would actually fix it, and not just move it to the back of the truck. I would explain "but then the shaking will just be in the back" It was hilarious.

this guy kept trying to take off the wrong tire:

Crossing the Equator on the way th Queen Elizabeth:

Queen Elizabeth NP is about 2000 sq miles, has many big game species (no giraffes) two large lakes and volcanic features.

 

[outinthewoods]

more later

 

[swampjeep]

thanks for sharing the story, I'm looking forward to reading more.

 

[jwhutch]

Awesome. I have been to Uganda three times. Have been on two outings and game drives. Our mission experience has generally been in the slums and the prisons. The first safari, was to Murchison, and the second was to Mburo NP. Your pictures bring back great memories. Look forward to more. Thanks.

 

[RU55ELL]

A little late to this one, but we have friends that are missionaries in Arua, Uganda. They have been there almost two years already. Your report and pictures help show what they are also dealing with over there.

 

[PirateMcGee]

somehow missed this one


awesome trip! Thanks for sharing!

 

[1leglance]

very very cool...
putting together good work with great travel is what it is all about
thanks for posting and post up more please

 

[suntinez]

yes, more please!!

 

[ColoDisco]

This must have been where they were eaten by the local wildlife.

 

[luangwablondes]

I been to Uganda twice- and visited the gorillas both time. Spent 1 month there each time, based out of a friends house on Tank Hill. The people are some of the friendliest in Africa. Walked around at night, local transportation, and never worried about safety - this was in '96.

Getting around to the marketplace, visiting the city center, just getting around on your own is the way to go. Tours insulate tourists from the Real Africa.

Also, I saw those shoebills along the side of the road. Lots of them. Thought it was a common bird. Found out later, just there at the right time of year and the right place.

Yep. You did the smart thing when you hired a 4x4 to see the country.