tiredmartha
New member
Bazinga punk! This thing is looking studly. All it needs now are some custom curtains and cushions 
Updating a 1988 Skamper 072S
- Thread starter xdbx
- Start date
SLO_F-250
Explorer
Dan,
GREAT TO SEE SOME PICTURES OF THE RIG!!! Also, its cool to see your own thread up here. You have been busy! I still need to get a free Saturday to work on my heater. That is basically the last thing to mess with. I appreciate your advice to date! Ill will be giving you a call when I get it pulled out of the camper. Keep up the good work!
Im pretty sure the measurements would work on your guy's models. If you have the 7ft or 8ft platform your cabinet could be longer than mine. Exactly what I did on the build. Link to post Heres where I give the exact dimensions. (Just a few posts down)
Hit me up with questions. Happy (almost) New Years Guys! :smiley_drive:
Paul
GREAT TO SEE SOME PICTURES OF THE RIG!!! Also, its cool to see your own thread up here. You have been busy! I still need to get a free Saturday to work on my heater. That is basically the last thing to mess with. I appreciate your advice to date! Ill will be giving you a call when I get it pulled out of the camper. Keep up the good work!
Im pretty sure the measurements would work on your guy's models. If you have the 7ft or 8ft platform your cabinet could be longer than mine. Exactly what I did on the build. Link to post Heres where I give the exact dimensions. (Just a few posts down)
Hit me up with questions. Happy (almost) New Years Guys! :smiley_drive:
Paul
LED replacement lights are in. Photos to follow.
Dr. Toolbox, my apologies for the lateness of my arm measurements. Got caught up in another project. Will get you those sometime this week.
But, important information for anyone with a DOMETIC 3-way refrigerator like mine. It is model RM2201.
Here is the service manual:
http://fardo.net/gallery/d/16725-3/Dometic+RM2190+Diagnostic+Service+Manual.pdf
Here is a parts list / fiche / parts diagram:
http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals/0/Dometic_Refrig_RM2201_PartsList.pdf
Dr. Toolbox, my apologies for the lateness of my arm measurements. Got caught up in another project. Will get you those sometime this week.
But, important information for anyone with a DOMETIC 3-way refrigerator like mine. It is model RM2201.
Here is the service manual:
http://fardo.net/gallery/d/16725-3/Dometic+RM2190+Diagnostic+Service+Manual.pdf
Here is a parts list / fiche / parts diagram:
http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals/0/Dometic_Refrig_RM2201_PartsList.pdf
ToolBox Guy
Adventurer
No worries, hey I saw an older For Sale thread come up for your camper. Are you selling still or hanging on to it?
Last summer, I was in the mindset to sell it. I had it listed for roughly 6 months, and despite cutting my asking price, I still didn't receive even one serious inquiry. It was then that I decided to restore it.
Anyone that complains that these are too hard to find on this side of the country is full of sh__...
Anyone that complains that these are too hard to find on this side of the country is full of sh__...
Cool thread! Don't know how I didn't see this sooner. I have an 072s as well, which I hauled all over this summer in my Tacoma. I, unfortunately, don't have the furnace in mine, but it is otherwise very similar. I had to drive all the way from VA to OH to find one that wasn't a busted up rot box, and even then I still got a some-what leaky roof!
Don't forget to do the uber-cool duct tape on the side of the Trans Labrador Highway propane door mod!
Don't forget to do the uber-cool duct tape on the side of the Trans Labrador Highway propane door mod!
Hey Carl! Thanks for checking in. I luckily havent had to do any propane door mods yet, but does the zip ties and garbag bag on the roof vent count?
Post some interior pictures of yours. I'm curious what else is different seeing as your propane canister is on the drivers side, and mine is on the passengers. Do you have a full length bench on your passenger side??
Post some interior pictures of yours. I'm curious what else is different seeing as your propane canister is on the drivers side, and mine is on the passengers. Do you have a full length bench on your passenger side??
It was going to be such a good night...
I wrote a nice long post about the work I had. Lost it. Somehow my photos disappeared off my SD card too, so words will have to suffice.
Tonight was one of those nights where a lot of little things got done. For me, it was a lot of little things that added up to a feeling that "this thing just isnt done". NOW, it's almost done being done-ized. :wings:
I finished the LED install, and went through and bent all the contacts and tabs in the light fixtures in to ensure good positive contact with the light bases. They work great! Althought the dull white filters take some of the luster away from the cool blue light. I might have to find some clear filters, or replace them with some sheets of clear plastic. I can do that now since the fixture is low profile enough to fit.
Regarding lights, I should also say that early after purchasing the camper, I replaced all the 1141 bulbs in the overhead lights with 1156 bulbs. The difference isnt noticeable by looking at the filaments, and the bases are the same. The Skamper spec interior lights are 1141, and draw 1.4 amps, outputting 21 candle power. The standard 1156 bulbs I installed draw 2.1 amps, and put out 32 candle power. In hindsight, I would suggest AGAINST this. The fixtures just got too hot, and the one time I had them on for an hour or so, I couldnt hold my hand on any part of the plastic fixture body. Also, I failed to consider the 120-> 12v converter is only rated to put out 8 amps. These lamps alone would draw 8 (3 in the roof, 1 on the "entryway". Heck, even the fridge draws 7.9A on the 12v setting. Silly thought of mine.
So, now I've got the LED array's in there that combined, draw about .01A.
I also wired in some bus rails instead of piggy backing my break panel posts, so it should literally be a 10 second job to add any additional circuits.
Also finished up the battery circuit and battery box placement. When the camper arrived to me, it had a crude hole drilled underneath the refrigerator, and the 2 fridge 12v wires pulled through with alligator clips. He said "just throw a battery in the bed before you load teh camper and clip these on......
New pictures and those rail measurements friday.
I wrote a nice long post about the work I had. Lost it. Somehow my photos disappeared off my SD card too, so words will have to suffice.
Tonight was one of those nights where a lot of little things got done. For me, it was a lot of little things that added up to a feeling that "this thing just isnt done". NOW, it's almost done being done-ized. :wings:
I finished the LED install, and went through and bent all the contacts and tabs in the light fixtures in to ensure good positive contact with the light bases. They work great! Althought the dull white filters take some of the luster away from the cool blue light. I might have to find some clear filters, or replace them with some sheets of clear plastic. I can do that now since the fixture is low profile enough to fit.
Regarding lights, I should also say that early after purchasing the camper, I replaced all the 1141 bulbs in the overhead lights with 1156 bulbs. The difference isnt noticeable by looking at the filaments, and the bases are the same. The Skamper spec interior lights are 1141, and draw 1.4 amps, outputting 21 candle power. The standard 1156 bulbs I installed draw 2.1 amps, and put out 32 candle power. In hindsight, I would suggest AGAINST this. The fixtures just got too hot, and the one time I had them on for an hour or so, I couldnt hold my hand on any part of the plastic fixture body. Also, I failed to consider the 120-> 12v converter is only rated to put out 8 amps. These lamps alone would draw 8 (3 in the roof, 1 on the "entryway". Heck, even the fridge draws 7.9A on the 12v setting. Silly thought of mine.
So, now I've got the LED array's in there that combined, draw about .01A.
I also wired in some bus rails instead of piggy backing my break panel posts, so it should literally be a 10 second job to add any additional circuits.
Also finished up the battery circuit and battery box placement. When the camper arrived to me, it had a crude hole drilled underneath the refrigerator, and the 2 fridge 12v wires pulled through with alligator clips. He said "just throw a battery in the bed before you load teh camper and clip these on......
New pictures and those rail measurements friday.
SLO_F-250
Explorer
Hey Carl! When you going to post some picts of yours? You know Im still going to take credit for you getting a skamper! haha Hope all is well man! Any trips planned back out to the central coast? Also, I'm with Dan. What year is yours? That is weird that the propane is on the opposite side. I also see your shore power is in the middle of the drivers side. Mine is in the front. Picts man Picts! :sombrero:
Dan,
Bummer on losing the post & picts! We've all been there! Glad to hear you are getting close to be "donized"! Im looking forward to seeing picts of you camping. Nice work on all the electrical. I didn't really mess with mine at all. Just replaced the fuse and it all worked. Ill be getting there when I add the battery isolator setup and run the fridge off 12V. Keep it up! :smiley_drive:
Paul
Haha. Done-ized...er-ing-est.
I'll be ordering up my isolator here shortly. Still looking for a nice connection point to install in the inner bedside. My truck has a severe-duty 160amp alternator and as such, I believe I have to size the wiring accordingly. AWG says that's gauge #000, or #0000 for the length required to go around the cab and into the bed.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
That's going to be expensive.
Do you plan to have a simple battery isolator to push current to your battery and nothing more? I'm considering wiring in a combo isolator, aka split charge relay, in order to push current the other way in case the truck batteries ever need some "extra juice" after a long winch session, or who knows what. Thoughts?
I'll be ordering up my isolator here shortly. Still looking for a nice connection point to install in the inner bedside. My truck has a severe-duty 160amp alternator and as such, I believe I have to size the wiring accordingly. AWG says that's gauge #000, or #0000 for the length required to go around the cab and into the bed.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
That's going to be expensive.
Do you plan to have a simple battery isolator to push current to your battery and nothing more? I'm considering wiring in a combo isolator, aka split charge relay, in order to push current the other way in case the truck batteries ever need some "extra juice" after a long winch session, or who knows what. Thoughts?
Got the floor trim cut and laid. Not sure how to affix this. Should I go traditional and rent a nailgun with headless nails, or try silicone or ??
There was some trimming involved:
Dont forget to cut the ends at a 45* so that they mate with eachother.
Also got the original kickplate screwed back in some solid wood. I considered using the trim molding for this, but it seems some abuse from dragging totes back and forth...
I also mounted the new curtains.
Hopefully, you dont notice the white string. What I did here was take an idea from a modern camper I saw recently and change out the solid curtain rods to this string in the areas that someone would lay on them. The two along this "daybed" area were especially bad, and had been kinked and eventually folded in from people laying on them while lounging. Silly! This way, they lay flush and are rather durable. I just wrapped this twine tight along the mounting screws, top and bottom. Still need to sew up the keepers, but it looks pretty good! (I think...haha)
^^ You can see I retained the solid curtain rods for the kitchen window mostly for safety from the burners, but also because I havent yet seen someone try to lounge on that counter...yet
There was some trimming involved:
Dont forget to cut the ends at a 45* so that they mate with eachother.
Also got the original kickplate screwed back in some solid wood. I considered using the trim molding for this, but it seems some abuse from dragging totes back and forth...
I also mounted the new curtains.
Hopefully, you dont notice the white string. What I did here was take an idea from a modern camper I saw recently and change out the solid curtain rods to this string in the areas that someone would lay on them. The two along this "daybed" area were especially bad, and had been kinked and eventually folded in from people laying on them while lounging. Silly! This way, they lay flush and are rather durable. I just wrapped this twine tight along the mounting screws, top and bottom. Still need to sew up the keepers, but it looks pretty good! (I think...haha)
^^ You can see I retained the solid curtain rods for the kitchen window mostly for safety from the burners, but also because I havent yet seen someone try to lounge on that counter...yet
Dirtytires
Explorer
Cool restore.
Alltwistedup
Observer
I looked at buying this pretty hard but it was just bad timing. I like the mods you have made to it.
Thanks! I like your truck too!
In terms of updates, life has caught up, so my progress has slowed, but I feel like I'm nearly finished. I ordered and replaced all the foam, and the cushion covers are almost done. The main bed is going to be super plush 3 density foam with memory foam topper. I upgraded from the 4" foam to a 6" stackup, leaving 2" for canvas.
The corner bracket mold is almost finished, and the final lay of fiberglass may be cured later this week.
In terms of updates, life has caught up, so my progress has slowed, but I feel like I'm nearly finished. I ordered and replaced all the foam, and the cushion covers are almost done. The main bed is going to be super plush 3 density foam with memory foam topper. I upgraded from the 4" foam to a 6" stackup, leaving 2" for canvas.
The corner bracket mold is almost finished, and the final lay of fiberglass may be cured later this week.
tiredmartha
New member
Time for an update, don't you think xdbx?