Upgrades for Suburban IFS

[BurbanAZ]

I am always going back and fourth on wanting to just do a solid axle swap with my 92 3/4 ton suburban. I was wondering if anyone has heard of upgrades for the ifs components like stronger upper/ lower control arms, tie rods, stronger axle assemblies. It is a 2500 so alot of the parts are a little stronger but its still something i tend to worry about. Anyone have any idea? is it even worth the price if there are upgrades out there, and if it cost too much i might as well just do a solid axle swap.

 

[Revco]

I've looked all over for front end upgrades for my '93 K2500 Suburban IFS. Nothing is out there. I think someone makes a pitman arm brace, but it's not a real upgrade, just an add-on. Outside of very expensive custom axles, there's not really anything else out there. If I planned to keep my Suburban, I'd be gathering up parts to do a Dana 60 SAS and get rid of the IFS altogether. Even if there were upgraded parts for the IFS... they'd cost atleast twice as much as a SAS conversion. A guy I know did a 6BT Cummins and Dana 60 swap in a '97 K2500 Suburban. He used C1500 rear springs up front and it rode so smooth on 37" MTR's I was envious because my stocker rides like a tank.

 

[FellowTraveler]

IFS?

K2500 Suburbans up to 1999 don't have real IFS problems, 2000 and newer do and there are lots of aftermarket do dads to try and fix em!

The best upgrade is going to polyurethane bushings the black graphite impregnated type from Energy Suspension.
MOOG problem solvers are best parts for suspension/steering replacement.
Forged lower control arms are better than sheet metal type.
Upper control arms are not really a problem unless you abuse your rig.
Idler should be the 4 bolt type all others are weak.
Look under plastic cover to lower steering column just above steering box there maybe a rag joint under there and more likely than not would need replacement because of age and wear, if u-joints check em.
Bullet proof makes heavy duty tie rods and ends but in 400k+ I've not seen the need for them.
It is important to have steering wheel and box centered for proper function of GM variable steering gear.
Axle assemblies should be the large CV joint type.
Timpkin sealed wheel bearings.
1996/9 K2500 burbs share same year K3500 IFS components, not sure on early ones.
The K2500/3500 IFS 9.25" diffs are the same very stout and heavy duty, ARB/EATON make lockers for it, this diff should up under most conditions.

Ongoing debate solid axle vs. IFS. IMHO There is no need to go w/solid axle assembly unless going with tires larger than 35", 35" tires fit the K2500/K3500 w/o need for any lift but requires cutout fender flares.

 

[UglyScout]

What are you breaking now? If it is holding together - I'd vote for keeping it and running it. As stuff wears out replace it with the better aftermarket parts.

 

[98dango]

No vote for me in the sas land un less you plan to go big and run it hard the ifs will hold just fine.

 

[BurbanAZ]

yea i dont plan on going really big on tires i have Yokohama Geolander A/Ts now in 265/75 and they seem to do really well so i may go slightly bigger but dont ever plan on going to 35s or anything. I havent even broken anything yet, its just something i seem to worry about. I have taken it some pretty tough trails and never had any issues. You guys are probably right though i should stick with my ifs since its working fine, and then maybe down the road do a SAS if i feel i need it.

 

[bftank]

hope the, "down the road and feeling you need it" part, is some where that you can swap one in, and not out in the middle of nowhere with the gentle strains of banjo music drifting in on the wind.

just a thought.:snorkel:

daggummit where's the pot stirring smiley!

 

[justcuz]

Hummer H2's have a cast iron differential instead of an aluminum hosing I'm told. Not sure if all of them had it or not. Also I've heard V8 Colorado's and H3's have cast front diff's so that is a little upgrade for the 1/2 ton guys.

 

[Rovertrader]

Fellowtraveler mentions above a reference to the '92-'99 having stronger IFS components- is that correct? If so, why not retrofit with those bits? I am considering an '01 hence the question. Thanks

Whoops, I see you are already have early IFS, but I would still like clarification if anyone knows. Thanks again.

 

[FellowTraveler]

IFS? again

Fellowtraveler mentions above a reference to the '92-'99 having stronger IFS components- is that correct? If so, why not retrofit with those bits? I am considering an '01 hence the question. Thanks

Whoops, I see you are already have early IFS, but I would still like clarification if anyone knows. Thanks again.

To the best of my knowledge; The weak link in later IFS diff/suspension/steering is the steering which aftermarket has addressed to some point or another w/braces for idler/pitman arms, then over sized custom bent tie rods and ends, etc.. I can only guess when driven only on paved surfaces these steering limitations don't rear their ugly head.

Later IFS w/4wd the center link w/tie rods attached at outside center end limit steering tie rod travel which in turn can pop the ball joint at one end or the other or just bent the tie rod. 92-99 the tie rods attach on the side of the drag link allowing a wide range of travel.