Utah M416a1 trailer slow build

[cruisertoy]

Stephen-Fortunately I have access to a cnc mill that will make quick work of adapters. Unfortunately going from the stock m416 bolt pattern to the Toyota 6 lug isn't as easy. The adapters out there are all two plate for a reason.

I found mention on a site that the m416a1 uses different drums than the normal m416 and they are actually common available 10" trailer drums. Any one confirm this? It would make it a lot easier to switch over to the 6 lug for the FJ80 rims.

 

[E Dr. P]

The hubs on an a1 are commercial 3500lb with regular bearings so it should be easy to change them for a different bolt pattern. There is a post on a forum that I can't remember where someone has done it but hasn't posted pics.

 

[tgreening]

I'd look into a replacement axle. Generally in the load range you'd want they aren't all that hard on the wallet, and you could ditch the surge setup while getting electric brakes and the bolt pattern you want without jumping through a bunch of hoops.

 

[JPNCA]

Wouldn't the surge break make it hard to back up hill or push over a rock in reverse

 

[cruisertoy]

On the Surge brakes If you use them. What are you pulling with?Will it be heave not to be push in a corner Found out the hard way.

I'm pulling with a 1997 FJ80 Land Cruiser. She's a heavy beast so controlling the trailer should not be too much of an issue. I pull a lot heavier without surge brakes.

 

[cruisertoy]

Looking closely at the springs and C-shackles, the springs practically rub the shackle mounts. I'm wondering if a 2" Shackle lift would be enough to clear the 255/85/16" tires I have to throw on it. I run 285/75/16" on the cruiser but have sound the 255 to be close enough to use for a spare. Basically the same diameter but narrower. I can build the shackles but am struggling to find the bushing size for the stock springs.

 

[JPNCA]

I modified my fenders to fit 33x12.5 with a leaf under

The left side is modified and the right has not been done yet. To give you an idea

 

[cruisertoy]

Here's how close the c-shackle is to the spring. I'm thinking I'll need new ones anyway as they are bent.

 

[Box Rocket]

Looks like some new shackles and bushings are in order. I found a couple of old pics of Henry Cubillan's M416 and it showed some longer shackles he was using. I'm almost positive he was still using the stock springs, but did a SOA conversion and ran the longer shackles you see here. Wish I new where he got them as well as the bushings, but maybe it will give you some ideas. Oh, and his fenders are pretty sweet too.

.

 

[Mark Harley]

http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Lift-Kits-J...spx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=3647&t_pn=DAYKJ61001BK


1/2" lift shackle
They list others too.

 

[cruisertoy]

Adam, Those are sweet fenders and I happen to have a bunch of 1 1/4" DOM sitting in the garage. Those are some old pictures you have kicking around.

Right now the plan is to keep the tub intact and not cut a tailgate. Being genetically challenged in the height arena I'll need to the total height to a minimum to get gear in and out through the lid.

 

[DonBeasley]

Saw your question on the shocks for the lid and I think he has a Sierra 4x4 lid as do I. Probably center mount on lid and about 8" away from edge of tub. I have a RTT and I used 175 lb shocks. Hard to get started (mostly due to seal) but works great otherwise. Hope this helps.

 

[cruisertoy]

Thanks Don. I'll try to take some pictures tonight or tomorrow and post them up. I mounted the shock in the center of the lid and then mounted the other end 6" down form the lip and towards the non hinged side of the trailer. I used two 6" hinges instead of a full length hinge. I also kept the lip stock and attached the hinges to the body of the trailer. I may have a leverage issue with how I mounted the hinges.

Saw your question on the shocks for the lid and I think he has a Sierra 4x4 lid as do I. Probably center mount on lid and about 8" away from edge of tub. I have a RTT and I used 175 lb shocks. Hard to get started (mostly due to seal) but works great otherwise. Hope this helps.

 

[cruisertoy]

I'm embarrassed by hinges and a couple other things on my lid so I'll delay posting pictures for a few days. Turns out I missed installing several bolts so hopefully that's my problem.

I did jack the trailer up and removed the front spring pins to begin the spring over. I had purchased some new rubber bushings but ran into something I'm not familiar with from my Toyota realm. So these things have a brass sleeve in the spring eye instead of a rubber bushing. The grease bolt has quite a bit of play between it and the brass sleeve but even if I removed the sleeve there's no way to get the new rubber bushings in there. Any thoughts?

 

[JCMatthews]

I'm embarrassed by hinges and a couple other things on my lid so I'll delay posting pictures for a few days. Turns out I missed installing several bolts so hopefully that's my problem.

I did jack the trailer up and removed the front spring pins to begin the spring over. I had purchased some new rubber bushings but ran into something I'm not familiar with from my Toyota realm. So these things have a brass sleeve in the spring eye instead of a rubber bushing. The grease bolt has quite a bit of play between it and the brass sleeve but even if I removed the sleeve there's no way to get the new rubber bushings in there. Any thoughts?

You can get new brass bushings and greasable bolts from http://www.vintagejeepparts.com. I just did, so I know that they are available. My local spring shop had greasable bolts, but they were a little long for these narrow springs. These springs are found on the front of 47-49 CJ2As and 50-53 CJ3As.